Barahona & Bahia de Las Aguilas

johnny

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Feb 8, 2003
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Thanks to Thomas trip report, I decided to take a short vacation to the South. Santo Domingo-Barahona-Bahia de Las Aguilas and some of the beaches in between.
I left SD at 6:00am last Thursday, arrived around 8:15 in Barahona. the road is in good condition, just few kms are still in construction in the strech from San cristobal - Bani.
I went directly to the Malecon and look for hotels in that area. there are about 7-10 hotels around the Malecon, with rates that goes from 30-50dlls. some of them with breakfast included.
I check in at 9:00am (not problem).
For people looking for budget hotels there are also few around the downtown, I saw at least 10. with rates from 8-10dlls.
The purpose of this trip was just to do the beaches from barahona till Bah?a de Las Aguilas. I will do the rest in another trip.
I had just 2 days off. So, my plan was to do the the beaches Los quemaitos, San Rafael, Los Patos and Paraiso, first day, and next day, Cabo rojo y Bahia.
non of these beaches has sand, but i was specting this. they are rocky with heavy waves, you have to be an experienced swimmer and be in good shape to get into water. these beaches are spectacular to watch and enjoy the landscape, but not very safe for swimming. Los quemaitos was in my opinion the safest.
I recommend to swim at the rivers, there are severals with waterfalls and clear water. a little cold for somebody, but for me it was very refresshing.
those rivers goes to the beaches in Los Patos and Paraiso. there are food and drinks in all these places. all of them have fish, but I was expecting more seafood, but in this time of the year, lobster is prohibited to catch.
they have few, but not much to choice. locals says it is totally different when is season. you can find it everywhere from 75pesos a pound.
I ate lobster in Los Patos. the Servicio was 350 pesos for 1 pound plus 2 sides (moro de guandules and Tostones).
I was starving, so, i order 3 servicios for myself for 800 pesos. 3 lobster plus 2 sides. I think it was very cheap. If you like grilled, you have to ask for, they normally cook Langosta guisada (with sauce).
the food was delicious.
my next stop, was Playa Paraiso. oh God this was my favorite. the blue turqueza of the water was amazing. here you will find everything, rocks, sand, coconut palm, the river to refresh after swimming. food and drink.
I returned to Barahona around 7pm. went out for dinner at 9:00 at Los Robles,(as othesr suggested here). I order Mofongo and Mondongo, both were excellent, nothing to envy to Adrian Tropical. I founf it to be a little priced for locals. so , there were not many people eating. for tourist or people from Santo domingo prices are ok. a lot of people prefer to hang out outside and buy drinks cheaper outside.
At the end of the Malecon there are 2 places, that are very popular: Everest and The big Tree, both were packed. the music is the louder I ever heard. impossible to have a conversation.
Other popular places are Atlantis, Lotus, and El Ejecutivo. all of them walking distance from the malecon. the best was Lotus on friday night.
next morning, left to Bahia very early, somebody in the hotel said that the road is in bad condition and it gonna take over 3 hours. Totally false.
I was surprised how good the road from Paraiso to Pedernales was. this road has more than 20 years. it was build by Balaguer, and believe me has not any pothole. its a very quiet road. I had the whole road for myself.
When you turn left to Cabo Rojo and Bahia is when the road isnt paved. and you have to drive very slow. until Las Cuevas. here is where you have to decide if continue driving to Bahia or take the speed boat. After I see the road condition, I prefer to take the boat. I recommend anybody to do it. I have a 4x4 suv, but didnt want to take chance. if you vehicle got stuck, there is not any place to repaire, not grua, not parts. so it?s better to pay for the boat. they charge 1,800 for up to 5 person. We paid 1,400 for 2.
I decided to go fishing with the fisherman. I gave him 200 pesos more and we got 2 lobster (well, he got) 9 pounds. plus some pounds of Lambi. you can eat the lambi without cooking. very good. he charged me 700 pesos for 9 pounds of lobster and 3 pounds of lambi.
the lady at Las cuevas cook it for free, and charge 200 pesos for the Moro de Guandules. (this is not expensive, if you consider that all the ingredients coming from a remote area, including water) this was the best moro I ever ate. it just the way the cook, with that campo flavor.
the lobster was cooked guisada. it was new for me. and believe me, it was even better. just delicious.
i asked her if she wants to come to cook in Santo Domingo. she says will not leave Bahia for all the money in the world. those people are the honest I had seen here in my country. there is like not many money interest. they are very poor, but you dont hear any complaint, like poors in Santo Domingo, they seems to be happy with what they have.
The beach in Bahia de Las Aguilas. well, what can I say. the best beach i ever seen in my life. there is not words to describe the beauty of this place.
you have to see it to believe.

I highly recommend to anybody living in Santo Domingo to do this trip.
For those expats who live in the north and think dominicans are just sankies and whores. to do this trip and experience the real dominican.
This is a totally safe trip for tourists. dominicans in the south are very honest and friendly. just be carefull driving in Barahona. there are more motoconchos than in puerto plata.
I cant believe, that this was my first trip to the South West. I will return very soon, for more time, and with tent. It?s safe to camping in Las Cuevas.
few pics of this trip in next post.
 

johnny

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Feb 8, 2003
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hausenland.com
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JFD

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Feb 10, 2010
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Bah?a de las Aguilas is one of the most beautiful beach in the caribbean. I go there twice a year, use to camp there but it's not allowed anymore (too many abuses). You can sleep in Pedernales:
Hostal Do?a Chava
It's a long road, it's the end of the world, it's fabulous.
 

drloca

Silver
Oct 26, 2004
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Great report and pictures...my favourite spot in the DR for sure!

Your picture labelled "river on the road" looks like San Rafael?
 

tjmurray

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Aug 11, 2006
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Hey Johnny. Great report. I'm so glad my trip report motivated you to see the SouthWest. I have been trumpeting the SouthWest ever since that trip. All the information I gathered will soon be posted on dr1 with photos: where to stay, what to do, where to eat, etc.

We want to promote independent travel as much as possible in the Dominican Republic. I think it is the lack of information that sometimes causes people to stay home or have fears. There's so much to see in this small island, and the SouthWest is one of our gems.
 

AlterEgo

Administrator
Staff member
Jan 9, 2009
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South Coast
Johnny, great report and beautiful pictures - the turquoise waters are heavenly! We've never been to any of the beaches west of the Nizao River, I think it's time to do some exploring.

AE
 

drloca

Silver
Oct 26, 2004
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Johnny, great report and beautiful pictures - the turquoise waters are heavenly! We've never been to any of the beaches west of the Nizao River, I think it's time to do some exploring.

AE

Do yourself a favour and go there on your next trip Alter Ego...you will become hooked. It really is something to be seen to be believed...Johnny's pictures dont lie;)
 

Marilyn

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May 7, 2002
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Good to know that there is a hotel in Pedernales. Nobody mention it before.

Great trip report Johnnie, but yes, there are several good hotels and restaurants in Pedernales.

Also, next time stop in playa Cabo Rojo on the way to Bahia de las Aguilas, is just beautiful.
 

BPL888

Active member
Sep 7, 2004
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Great Photos

Very nice photos Johnny!! I have been to most of those places and your photos bring back good memories. I can't wait to get back there. It is a truely spectacular part of the country.
 

crista

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Jul 24, 2010
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Barahona

I'm planning on taking a trip from SD to Barahona. What is the best public transportation you can recommend? Soy Americana y I want to be safe too