Trip report - Constanza

Chirimoya

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Dec 9, 2002
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If you're from a cold country and have come to the DR for the heat and the beaches, stop reading now as this will seem completely pointless to you.:p

Constanza's attraction is its cold weather. For Dominicans and people who've lived in the DR for many years, especially people from warmer climes, this is truly exotic. In the summer especially, it's the best way to escape the heat of the rest of the country. There are other highland areas where the temperature drops, but they are either too touristy for some (like Jarabacoa) or not touristy enough (parts of San Juan province, Monci?n, Villa Trina, Cambita). It was about 11?C at night when we were there, but it can go down to below zero in some areas. During the day the weather is springlike - warm in the sunshine and chilly in the shade.

Constanza has several hotels - at least two of good standard though not luxurious. We stayed at Altocerro, which looks about 30 years old but is reasonably up to date. The rooms were clean and basic - but cold as there is no heating. You can also rent a cabin, some of which have fireplaces. The dining area is large and has a couple of terraces as well as the indoor area. Staff are welcoming, food is varied - plenty of choice, local specialties like crema de cepa de apio, strawberries, rabbit stew and international dishes, but we all thought the food was much too salty. Breakfast is OK apart from the "colmado" bread which was disappointing. There is a sort of apr?s-ski feel to the place in the late afternoon/evenings as people come back from a day's exposure to the elements in search of a bowl of hot soup or a mug of hot chocolate. It's also a chance to show off your winter clothes that rarely get an airing.

The hotel has horse-riding, mountain-biking, a zip line, a football pitch, camping and barbecue areas, and they organised a bonfire for the guests on Saturday night. They also have conference facilities.

The other main attraction of Constanza is the landscape - it is so un-tropical that you feel you're in another country. Arriving via the winding road that links the valley of Constanza with the Duarte highway is a magical experience. Mountain mist gives way to crystal clear visibility as you reach the agricultural valleys of Tireo and Constanza.

Attractions to visit using Constanza as a base:
Valle Nuevo National Park - cold weather, mountain scenery, misty, mostly uninhabited. Visitors usually head for the Pyramid that supposedly marks the geographical centre of the country. There is a visitors' centre, an army/park ranger post, and camping facilities (free). Nearby is also the monument to Francisco Alberto Caama?o, a national hero who was killed on that spot. The road is unpaved but mostly OK.

Aguas Blancas waterfall - the road is windy and unpaved. It's a fairly challenging drive if you're in a normal vehicle, so best for 4-wheel drive jeepetas and camionetas, trailbikes or quads. There is a swimming area which is a bit grubby, with some litter, and the water is too cold for swimming for most people except perhaps in the summer months. what we did was take the sendero (trail) before you reach the falls, which takes you up to the viewing platforms for dramatic views of the falls and over the valley.

Piedras Letradas - Ta?no rock carvings - terrible road - 4x4 only - some parts are too narrow to let oncoming vehicles pass. We were lucky in that we didn't encounter any oncoming traffic, but unlucky in that we got a puncture! Once you reach the site there are no signs pointing to the rocks. We were shown the way by a campesino but there is no permanent presence there, let alone official guides. It is a very short, steep downhill scramble through forest vegetation to the rocks, not for everyone, and although the petroglyphs are intricate and impressive, the rock has been defaced with graffiti.

Local specialties are the strawberries, and the vegetables grown in these valleys, especially cepa de apio - celery root. The hotels and restaurants serve it as a soup, a breakfast mang? or a side dish accompanying meat or fish. As well as the hotel restaurants, there are several restaurants in the town centre. We were recommended one called Aguas Blancas where we thought the food there was very good indeed.
 

dv8

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Sep 27, 2006
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i like constanza. my only issue is puke inducing road to get there. if you have motion sickness turn around ad never look back :(

as far at the mountain roads here, you will swear they are only accessible by a jeep and then you will be nonchalantly passed by a 20 year old honda civic ;)
 

AlterEgo

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Jan 9, 2009
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I agree with dv8 about the roads. The lack of guardrails is problematic for anyone like me with a fear of heights, I have to turn away from the view or risk a panic attack :(

As an aside, I've been known to rant about the missing guardrails, blabbing that in the USA that wouldn't be acceptable. Lo and behold, we spent a week in the Smoky Mountains in November, visiting my cousin. I had to eat my words, no guardrails there either.
 

wrecksum

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Sep 27, 2010
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Went in the hot season this year and failed to find anything of interest in Constanza.

Unless you like to see stuff growing in fields,winding roads and a few hills.
Disappointed.....

(Yeah. jaded..I know..)
 
May 29, 2006
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Yeah, what's to see unless you're weird and like scenes like this?

319833_10200198139653699_1278856411_n.jpg


Makes you miss the blue smoke and noise of POP or SD..
 

Chirimoya

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Dec 9, 2002
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i like constanza. my only issue is puke inducing road to get there. if you have motion sickness turn around ad never look back :(

as far at the mountain roads here, you will swear they are only accessible by a jeep and then you will be nonchalantly passed by a 20 year old honda civic ;)

I agree with dv8 about the roads. The lack of guardrails is problematic for anyone like me with a fear of heights, I have to turn away from the view or risk a panic attack :(

As an aside, I've been known to rant about the missing guardrails, blabbing that in the USA that wouldn't be acceptable. Lo and behold, we spent a week in the Smoky Mountains in November, visiting my cousin. I had to eat my words, no guardrails there either.

But have you been since the road was redone? It's still windy as hell but at least it's a smooth and much quicker journey. My first visit was about eight years ago and it was terrible then.
 

malko

Campesino !! :)
Jan 12, 2013
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I agree lovely place constanza, I got some of my best rose bushes and flowers there......
 

dv8

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Sep 27, 2006
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new road is very beautiful. it is really clean, well done and taken care of, so far. unlike AE i was not worried about railings. in fact at some points i wished for the car to slide down the mountain and for death to stop my suffering. it was the damn curves, i was so car sick! i had to open the windows and stick my head out, like a dog. few times we had to stop so my stomach would calm down. and all this despite talking puke pills too.

best thing about constanza was the smell. fresh vegetables with overpowering onion and garlic :) we stopped in few places along the road to buy veggies and fruits, very cheap and very nice.
 

wrecksum

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Sep 27, 2010
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Sorry.
I'm jaded.
Lived in Switzerland,farmed in France, hiked in SA Drakensberg and the Vosges and the Jura, climbed Kilimanjaro (a bit, not to the summit),visited the Himalayas (no climbing ),done the Rockies and more.

I can now tick off Constanza.....

Good cabbage though.
 

bob saunders

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Jan 1, 2002
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Sorry.
I'm jaded.
Lived in Switzerland,farmed in France, hiked in SA Drakensberg and the Vosges and the Jura, climbed Kilimanjaro (a bit, not to the summit),visited the Himalayas (no climbing ),done the Rockies and more.

I can now tick off Constanza.....

Good cabbage though.

It's all relative. It's a little different than the rest of the DR. I like the road from Jarabacoa to Constanza but my wife is terrified of it. I look forward to Chiri's photos.
 

Empiric

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Apr 24, 2013
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imho Constanza is much better than Jarabacoa, at least it has more potential, much bigger valley. But has been limited by road access and the valley is dedicated to agriculture, not tourist atractions, which is ok.

A few years ago they were talking about passenger airplane service, I think they do have cargo airplanes to export agricultural products directly to the rest of the Caribbean.

I heard there is a place/village called 'la nevera' [the freezer] in Constanza
 

Chirimoya

Well-known member
Dec 9, 2002
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Sorry.
I'm jaded.
Lived in Switzerland,farmed in France, hiked in SA Drakensberg and the Vosges and the Jura, climbed Kilimanjaro (a bit, not to the summit),visited the Himalayas (no climbing ),done the Rockies and more.

I can now tick off Constanza.....

Good cabbage though.
:) Did you try the cepa de apio (also called 'rabano' locally although nothing like a radish)?

I've been to Kilimanjaro, the Andes, the Pyrenees, the Sierra Nevada, the Alps, the Carpathians, the Atlas and the Rif and I can still appreciate the Constanza area for its beauty, all the more for being so incongruous in the context of a Caribbean island. Also the delicious respite of the cool weather - although as I said in the OP, I can appreciate that many here might not value that.