Rio Damajagua and its waterfalls

Robert

Stay Frosty!
Jan 2, 1999
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This was sent to me via email from Cleef. Great report!

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Rio Damajagua and its waterfalls

My trip to Rio Damajagua was with the adventure club at Mundo Maria Montessori School in Santo Domingo. Led by Domingo Abreau and his son Ico (?Eco?), we left S.D. around 6 am. and drove out Autopista Duarte to Puerto Plata and then east towards Cabarete.

Soon after the mountain tunnel you?ll come upon signage for the river, and as the right side opens up into a huge basin of sugarcane fields, exposing the mountains that are responsible for today?s adventure, keep an eye out for a ramshackle hut on the left side of the road. This serves as the ?tourist center? but it?s usually better to turn off to the right in the opening in the field and let them come to you or walk across the road. If it looks like there is a basketball team hanging out in their aqua blue jerseys, you?re in the right spot.

I don?t know what the rates are, but if you elect not to hire their services, be sure to pack body bags, toe tags and a Sharpie. I believe we had 3 guides in total and they were indispensable, and pulled off some of the hugest airs of the day (that means big leaps from 70 feet into a pool of water the size of a Le Car).

Domingo took care of all the negotiations with the basketball team and soon enough we were dribbling our way down the path to the drop off point. 4WD will certainly help shorten the walk-in distance but its not entirely necessary. As we drove through the cane fields we were briefed on what to bring ? nothing ? and what to leave behind ? everything. As this was translated to me in English I noticed a man who stopped cutting the cane to smile welcomingly to me ? he clearly had began his day where his night had ended it ? smiling back through the bus window, I thought what good fortune it was that I?d forgotten my Rolex.

As I got off the bus Domingo grabbed my camera laden arm and said ?no no no?, I said ?si, si, si?, he said ?no, no, no? I said ?see, see, see? as I showed him my dry bag that I prayed would keep my bulky Canon SLR safe and dry. He still thought it was a bad idea; too bulky, too much weight, you?ll have to swim with it underwater, jump off waterfalls and you?ll be lucky to get it out alive. He was right on all counts, and I surely was lucky to get it out in one piece. I?d recommend a disposable waterproof if you must have something to bring back beyond great thrills and waterlogged sneakers.

The hike begins down some muddy trails leading to the first crossing of the river. It had been raining heavily in the weeks leading up to this day, and that combined with some heavy earthquake activity had transformed the river, it?s outflows, and even the hike up the mountain. The breadth of devastation was evident in the foul odor of rotting carcasses (goats and pigs were seen) that were entangled in the collected brush that had collected at the outflow onto the plain. The evidence on some trees showed the height of the water was above my chest at one point, some 30 yds before the current edge of the river, probably 6-8 feet, perhaps more.

The first crossing was very high by normal standards and still quite manageable. Once the herd of water buffalo made a break for it downstream, engaging the dozen or so 20-foot crocodiles, it gave us just enough time to spare us their gnashing teeth and we made our push for the other side of the river.

Now that we were completely soaked, and it turns out there weren?t any crocodiles, we all have a laugh and begin the 30-40 minute hike up the mountain. Most of the hike is on a good angle against the fall line; past some remote homesteads that made me glad I didn?t move to the DR to live on a remote mountainside homestead. The remains of a mountain wall that broke away during the recent seismic and weather activity left a thick pasty mud - sometimes knee-deep - covering the trail and surrounding jungle in spots. It was relayed to me that we were likely to see a very different river than what existed just a few days before, and that the river flow would be very heavy.

On the way we encountered various fruit trees and our guides collected some fresh aguacates as we stopped to let the rest of the clan catch up. Once we were at the river the aguacates that weren?t consumed were poured into the river to feed whatever aquatic life made the habitat home.

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One of our fearless leaders decided to the pulp would serve well as hair conditioner.

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We entered the waterfall arena just above it?s mid-point and began the ascent to the top up chutes and waterfalls pushing down and endless flow of water. This is where the guides are truly a must have.

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By building human ladders we?re able to get up and over some pretty hairy stuff. I?d venture to say that a few of the rises are impassible solo, and many required all three guides to maneuver person by person up some precarious switchbacks over water and silt carved rock that was slippery at times.

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Keep in mind; this is not an adventure for everyone. Being comfortable in and under water is a good start, being in decent physical shape helps for sure, and the ability to not panic when you jump 70 feet into a waterhole and come back up with nothing on but a grin may come in handy as well. Surely the more daring you are (i.e. willing to make some big jumps into small but deep pools) the more fun you?re going to have.

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There will be a few times you?ll be forced to make some jumps - or slides into fast moving chutes - that will safely propel you into the pools below.

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Some falls are easier than others, but there is almost always a good jump involved for those brave enough.

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The guides will often use a tree limb to insure that the depths of pools are safe for jumping. Safety is a major consideration as hauling your body out of this river valley would only be an additional $150 pesos per man, or $35 per body part, hardly worth it. The guides were always a step ahead of us checking on the best routes, the power of the river flow and any loose schools of flesh devouring piranhas. But with the carcasses laying around lower in the valley they were quite certain we?d make it down in time to avoid their late day push upstream.

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The valley was filled with interesting flora like this Copey bloom. This one had fallen down from high in the canopy and dozens were littered about here and there. I carried one back with me in the hope that it would dry out and make an additional cool piece of nothing to add to the detritus all over my house. But instead I found out why the Indians used the plant. The middle part of the flower, when it begins to rot (or when you put it in your hat and carry it down 27 waterfalls) becomes a glue like residue that holds onto anything it touches like it?s an 800 pound gorilla with a stalk of ripe bananas.

Note to self: Take pictures, leave footprints.

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This interesting rock formation appeared to be clay, but after a technically detailed 5-minute diatribe in Spanish ? absolutely none of which I understood ? I learned that it isn?t clay. It?s rock, so there.

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This unidentified piece of wood was at the top of the mountain and its rich color and wandering guest was worth putting on film, and hopefully onto your computer screen.

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The final pool is a doozy. The only way down is to take a water chute to the first pass ? the best chute of the day I thought ? and then jump about 8-10 feet into the final lagoon. The other option is to take that final chute then climb to the top of the ledge, then up a tree and make this jaw-dropping jump of better than 70 feet.

You can likely set this trip up in Puerto Plata, Sosua and Cabarete, check with the local tour companies. Bring dry clothes (that doesn?t mean their dry when you pack them, but that they don?t hold water - i.e. no cotton) good rubber soled sneakers that you don?t mind sparing a half-life of, a towel and some dry (cotton ok here) clothes for the ride home. Definitely bring some food to eat for when you?re done too, you won?t be eating on the trip. This is a full day adventure and you want to start early. Also, don?t put the Copey?s in your hat, and don?t put any cool stones you like in your back pocket as they will rip your butt to shreds ? as well as your shorts ? when you blast down the chutes.

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Any size group will do, the more the merrier.

Cleef
 

Hillbilly

Moderator
Jan 1, 2002
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Wif out a dout, our bestest riter

Absolutely another homerun for you Cleefo! Congratulations on making a hot sweaty, fear filled hike into a highly palatable and entertaining visual essay.

Once again, you did good, reel gud!

HB
 

gh1

New member
Mar 4, 2004
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We did the waterfalls with Iguana Mama, unfortunately my friend panicked at the third waterfall and we had to turn back - this really is for strong swimmers only - be warned!! Would love to go back one day and do the whole 12.
 

trina

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Jan 3, 2002
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Cleef, this was awesome. When I lived in Sosua, I took friends out on this trip...it had been their first visit to the island. I e-mailed the story and pics, and they said it brought back such great memories...they're ready to go again!

Thanks for the awesome journey, and keep up the good work!
 

Chirimoya

Well-known member
Dec 9, 2002
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Wonderful stuff! The photos as well as the text.

My sister and her husband did it a few years ago when they were here on holiday. I hope to do it someday, maybe when Chirimoyito is old enough. How old do people think a child needs to be for this trip?

Chiri
 

Dolores1

DR1
May 3, 2000
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gh1 said:
We did the waterfalls with Iguana Mama, unfortunately my friend panicked at the third waterfall and we had to turn back - this really is for strong swimmers only - be warned!! Would love to go back one day and do the whole 12.

I also visited Damajagua with Domingo Abreu, the country's most oustanding cave expert. While there is some risk involved, this is a trip that can be accomplished by anyone in relatively good physical shape. More important than swimming skills is a good pair of waterproof hiking shoes! We were a group of 50 and included in our group was a little girl of six that barely knew how to swim, her mother that also hardly knew how to swim. We all made it through. We did have to do rapelling as the water level was too low at one point. We walked up the cliff and then cascaded down the 21 or something holes. The tours only take you up to the 7th hole, I believe, and do it backwards.

The point I am making here is that one does not have to be a strong swimmer to do this tour. Also, there are more than 21 cascades and the better way is to walk up the hill and cascade down. Not walk up through the cascades.

We started at 9 am and made it down by 5 pm, but that was because we were 50 and at the point where ropes had to be used, we spent about two hours getting everyone to take a crash course in rapelling to make it down the rocks.

Everyone who made that trip has bookmarked it in their most precious life memories. It is tasking and challenging and daring, but when you are through there is a great satisfaction in having met one's fears.
 

appleman

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Dec 18, 2003
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Please help a confused gringo!

The pictures here look a lot like the "cascades" near Imbert, but the directions in the post seem to indicate a different location. And for the life of me, I cannot find the Rio Damajagua on my trusty DR map. Will someone please clarify if these are the falls near Imbert. If not, I want to go to these as well because the ones at Imbert were great and these look just as good.
Thanks in advance.

Bob H.
 

Cleef

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Feb 24, 2002
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Good question

appleman said:
The pictures here look a lot like the "cascades" near Imbert, but the directions in the post seem to indicate a different location. And for the life of me, I cannot find the Rio Damajagua on my trusty DR map. Will someone please clarify if these are the falls near Imbert. If not, I want to go to these as well because the ones at Imbert were great and these look just as good. Thanks in advance.Bob H.

When I began writing this I went to double check that I had the location/directions accurate. I too couldn?t find the river on the map. I know I?ve seen it somewhere and I believe it?s on a topo map that Dolores has in her home.

She posted on this thread so I?m assuming I had the directions pretty close. Don?t remember where Imbert is and I don?t have a map handy so I?ll have to double check tomorrow.
 

appleman

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Dec 18, 2003
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Dolores said:
Damajagua cascades are the same ones near Imbert.

Thanks Cleef and Dolores. I thought these were the same but wasn't sure. I had a great trip there last year and recommend it. My guide swam up each pool holding my digital camera above the water with one hand while paddling with the other. I was scared to death that I would lose all the pictures of my vacation, but he didn't even get it wet.

Bob H.
 

muchacha

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Jun 15, 2005
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"I noticed a man who stopped cutting the cane to smile welcomingly to me ? he clearly had began his day where his night had ended it ? smiling back through the bus window, I thought what good fortune it was that I?d forgotten my Rolex."

I came across this forum searching for the spelling of that river. I've just returned from the Dominican Republic and had a wonderful waterfall experience.

I love your pictures however, I have to take exception to your comments above.

You see a lady we stayed with also insisted on bringing her diamonds and gold with her to the falls. She wrapped them in a towel and left it on a rock. Going back in the truck through the sugar cane fields she realized she had the towel but no jewelry.

One of our guides ran back to the fall but did not find anything. They took our resort villa number and promised to look harder.

The next day after searching with a group for three hours, they drove every piece of jewelry back to her at our villa on Cofresi.

BTW, our jeep safari tour videotaped the entire day for us so we came home with our entire waterfall adventure on DVD.

If I find the contact info, I'll post later.
 
Nov 5, 2004
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I have been to these falls 3 times. They are really amazing. And I still get terrified to jump, and take a good 3 minutes of coaxing to do some of the bigger ones.

I LOVE the "water slide" ones though. So much fun.

Cleef - wonderful photos and amazing writting. You are a talented writer. You were brave to bring your camera like that.

I brought my digtal once, and like appleman was terrified to get it wet (I have worked collectivly for over 7 years in the camera repair industy, so I know how bad water is for cameras) But we put it in the case, wrapped it in 3 plastic bags, and the guide didn't even let a drop of water on it.

Conchman - I do believe this is sold in hotels with packages. Some of the Jeep Safari tours go there. I went twice at a low tourist sean, and it was only us and our guide, which I like MUCH better then high tourist seans where there are truckloads of tourists being driven out. We drive right up to the beginning of the hike (before you cross the first big river) on our motoconchos, and then you can hire a guide at the bottom for 100 pesos per person (approximatly). There is no reason this waterfall trip should be unsafe if you have a guide with you.Maybe more then one if you have a bigger group. They have done this many times everyday and know exactly what they are doing. They are very strong despite the fact that some of them are really small. (You should see some of these skinny little guys hoist up these larger and sometimes older tourists through the waterfall to the next level. It is quite a site.) But I have never seen them drop anyone, or anyone fall and get hurt.

Only injured person I ever saw there, was an extremly drunk Dominican who triped and fell when he was climbing, and tumbled down and fell into a tree, but he just cut his knee.

Only thing I have ever had gone missing was my sunglasses, I set them down for a second and turned around, and didn't notice they were missing until we got back home.And that was the time we went and there were lots of tourists. :tired:

My husband takes people out there quite often for tours. He doesn't get paid but sometimes when our friends are visiting we will all go together. Or when he meets a nice family on the beach he will take them up there for fun.

The falls are VERY beautiful.
 

yasmin

Member
Jun 16, 2005
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I worked for three years as a tourguide in Jeep Safari, every day we went up te waterfalls of Damahagua, it's not dangerous if you go there with a dominican guide who helps you en tells you step by step what to do.
The only time when it's dangerous is when it rains a lot, the waterfalls are stronger, more water is coming down, and also the rivers are more difficult to walk through.

But anyway if you watch out what you are doing, it is a lot of fun, i'll never forget this time of my life, having such an adventure everyday, and even getting paid for it!!!
 

planner

.............. ?
Sep 23, 2002
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I too have done this tour - 12 times. I however will not do it under certain conditions. If we have had a lot of rain then I won't go, it is dangerous then. I will only go with sufficient Dominican Guides who are experienced.

This tour is sold here on the north coast. YOu can purchase it almost anywhere. Many of the Tour Operators however will not sell it.

On a full day jeep safari everything is included, your guides, your transportation, food, drinks and entertainment. Some companies videotape for you to purchase. I bought mine once and my friends back in Canada were amazed!

I recommend this to the reasonably fit of all ages who can swim. If they can't swim where a lifejacket!!!

By the way, your directions are a little confusing. YOu take the highway from Santiago towared Puerto Plata. Yes you are heading east but don't come anywhere near Cabarete, that was the part that confused I think. YOu turn off to the right before Imbert!

Enjoy, of all the trips I have done in this country, it continues to be one of my favourites.
 

bozorboso

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May 16, 2005
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my friend and i were in sosua about a month ago, and we took a jeep safari...no clue that we were going to the Damajagua cascades, or what it involved. it turned out to be the trip of a lifetime. we had a blast! the guides, Aridio and Nelson, were so much fun. they sang songs, taught us all the "cool" spanish phrases, flirted (naturally ;) ) , and made the trip all around great.
 

Deej

New member
Jun 15, 2005
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The waterfalls are certainly worth a visit.

I've dodgy ankles and couldn't get passed the the bottom pool. It was still fun watching people jump off that last step, though.

Walking from the "car park" to the bottom of the falls is quite easy with a guide but you will get grit in trainers (I ended up with a couple of cuts on my feet from that). Better to use "water shoes" of some sort that let the small stones out with the water.