Santo Domingo, Vallejuelo, and Samana

strawberrru

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Oct 5, 2005
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I finally have the time to sit down and write a detailed trip report. Sorry if this is too long, but hopefully I can capture just a little bit of the amazing hospitality, the crazy things you don’t understand, and just the beautiful simple life. :)

Some background information about what took me, a single, 22 year old white female to the DR for 10 days. As part of graduation requirement at my college, you have to have 12 credits of international education and you can either go abroad or take classes on campus. I choose to go to the DR for 3 months. The first six weeks you live in the capital with a host family and take language classes, culture lectures, and have field trips in the city and throughout the country to see the historic sites of the DR. The second six weeks we go out to a little village in pairs or alone (and live with another host family) and serve in some way. That was my summer of 2004. If you want more information about that, let me know and I’ll be very eager to share! :)

So, Thursday December 10th, really early in the morning I started my adventure down south. After weather delays and such, I finally arrived at SDQ (7 ? hours late) and my host father was there. so my first prayer had been answered, someone understood that my flight was going to be late and was there to pick me up. I was taken back to my host mother’s sister’s house which would be my home base for the next week and a half. There I was greeted with lots of hugs and kisses and it felt good to be back, until I went to the bathroom to find no toilet paper and not even a trashcan (I had brought my own paper just in case there wasn't any). Oh well, that’s part of life down there. Friday morning I was taken to work with my 20 year old host sister. She works at the school at one of the Mennonite churches. I have a whole new appreciation for innercity schools in the US. Granted, I was in the 3-4 year old class where we just ran around, screamed, sang a few songs, and then glued little pieces of colored paper on the number 3. That afternoon I went out to the barrio “El Hipodromo” which is pretty far out of the city. It felt like the campo and was the new home of my host family. A small, two room house. The front room had the couch, stove, table, and refrigerator. The wall between the rooms was a piece of cardboard that had the Audi symbol on it. The back room had two beds, a dresser, and a tv. Two adults and three kids slept there. Then you could walk out the back door where there was a little area with a plastic curtain that contained the hole in the ground and a bucket for water. More about this barrio later.

Early Saturday morning I went to Duarte bus station to get a guagua to Vallejuelo. But of course there wasn’t one at the time I wanted to go, so I took a bus to San Juan de la Maguana and then switched and continued on. There is something about riding with the locals and seeing all the street vendors jump on the guagua trying to sell you queso and what else and then at the next stop jumping off to catch another ride back. I couldn’t imagine doing that all day, yet alone make a living off of that. When I finally arrived in the little village, I just had to say the name of my host family and I was dropped off right in front of the house. More hugs and kisses followed and off I went to find all my old friends and family members as well as stop at the hospital where I had worked to see them. There wasn’t anything out of the ordinary about the weekend. Sat outside under a shade tree and chatted, danced and then in evening went and sat at the fritura (food stand) that my host mother ran every night. Of course I enjoyed a lot of batata (sweet potato), yucca, platanos, pollo frito, and more typical Dominican food. Also, got to participate in washing out shirts and underwear in the outhouse while taking my cold bucket showers, which in December is really cold. At night the temperature would drop to where I would need to put on a sweatshirt, long pants, socks and I would use the comforter and of course the mosquito net which never works for me anyways! :) One night “se fue la luz” (no electricity) and so I spent several hours sitting in the city park with a host brother talking and looking at the stars.

Monday afternoon came too soon and once again I said goodbye to my family and headed back to SD. This guagua ride was very interesting. Somewhere outside of San Juan, we stopped and were told to get off the bus and get on a different on. So we gathered all our stuff and got off to find the other guagua was way too full and not quite enough space for all of this, even thought I believe the motto in the DR is "there is always room for one more". We loaded up again and off we drove. About 5 minutes later we stopped and got off again. This time we got on a very empty guagua (this one had AC) and finished the trip to SD. Once in SD, another host brother met me at Duarte where we walked a few blocks to find a publico (taxi) to go home. The only way I can try to explain the publico scene is to relate it to a food frenzy. An empty car would pull up and people would start pushing and shoving to get in. People would actually run to the driver’s side and get in through that door. Of course, I was the polite (terified) gringa and refused to push and shove, so we waited awhile. Finally, my host brother just pushed people aside and we got in and went for the ride of my life. I don’t know how many prayers I said in that publico, but I almost screamed when we stopped short a few inches from a gasoline truck that said “Caution, flammable”. It’s also a good thing I don’t have long fingernails, otherwise I would have left marks in my host brother’s leg when we went over a speed bump and I could feel the cement grinding against the bottom of the car. You always know it’s a bad publico when the locals tell the driver he’s crazy, but hey, it’s just part of the experience. Safely out of the publico and back at home base, I packed up my stuff and went to Ensanche Quisqueya to visit a missionary family...more to come later...
 
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strawberrru

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Oct 5, 2005
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Tuesday morning we left on the 6am Caribe tours for Samana. We stayed at Hotel Docia which is right across from the church and if you sit on the front porch it looks over the bay. It was a very clean, simple hotel. We had hot water and electricity most of the time. We had a ceiling fan and coffee in the morning. For a room with a double bed and a single bed it was RD$500 for two people per night. The lady running the hotel was very friendly and gave us a lot of information. There was another gringa in samana that my missionary friend knew of, so she directed us to a small beach called Carenerro (I think that is how it is spelled). We took a motoconcho for $RD 20 each there and we walked through some house, some clean laundry drying outside, and finally found this little, private looking beach. There wasn’t much sand, but was very tranquillo. There were also local kids and adults so we felt safe. Turns out that this little place serves lunch to groups coming from Cayo Levantado. So, they asked if we wanted lunch which we negotiated the price and ended up pay RD$150 per plate. It included fish, chicken, different salads, drinks, and fresh fruit. Was an enjoyable afternoon after a long ride on a cold bus. The next morning we went to Cayo Levantado. We had negotiated a price the day before at Carenerro. Turns out, all the locals go out for RD$20 and he wanted RD$400 from us. The guy explained that the locals help him with beer but would not tell us how we could help him with beer. So we ended up paying RD$350 per person roundtrip (I believe). Once there, of course someone wanted to sale us lunch and we negotiated a whole fish with lots of rice, tostones, and salad for RD$350 which was more than enough for two of us. It was a beautiful day, and well, a boat trip with the locals at the end of the day always makes for an interesting ride.

Thursday morning it was rainy so we decided to head back to SD early. After getting back and walking from El Nueve home in the rain, we went to the grocery store to stock up on dino cookies, coffee, vanilla, and chinola juice. Got some interesting looks checking out with that arrangement and quantities. I needed to head back to home base, so I called a taxi where I got a tour of the malecon and zona colonial at night. For some reason, this taxi driver did not want to stay on 27 and when in stopped traffic around Ave Mexico I asked, is 27 worse than this. And the driver told me, no, it’s better. So why we didn’t stay on 27 is beyond me. Anyways, 1 ? hours later (just going from Ensanche Quisqueya to Los Mameyes) we get to the entrance of Los Mameyes. I had never gone to this place alone, yet alone at night, yet alone when there wasn’t electricity. I had the street name, but of course no one knows small street names. The driver didn’t have a cell phone either. After stopping and asking and no one hearing of this street, I somehow managed to find the house. Home sweet home. Haven’t ever been so happy to see people I knew. The guy wanted to charge me RD$500 but considering I had payed RD$180 the other day for the same distance and he choose to take the back roads, I ended up giving him RD$240, because I felt bad for getting us lost in the neighborhood...one more installment to come soon...
 
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Stodgord

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Nov 19, 2004
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You seemed to be Dominicanized well enough. You had me rolling with your first post, about the guaguas, and the publicos. It was hilarious.
 

Mirador

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Apr 15, 2004
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A few years ago, on the road between Vallejuelo and El Cercado, I stopped on the crossroads to HondoValle, to discuss with my wife whether we should first go pick up a jug of my favorite agave moonshine, or keep on going directly to the folk religious party on the outskirts of town. It was late afternoon, and I suddenly noticed through my side view mirror that a motorcycle driven by a black-hated man had silently stopped flush with the side of my suv, toward the back, outside my field of vision. The man on the motorcycle just sat there, didn't say a word, and my wife turned around to get a glimpse of him. She had an evident gesture of concern etched on her forehead. Without getting out of the car, I yelled loudly, in English, 'Mister, I love your hat'. The black-hated man immediately dismounted the motorcycle and walked over to my window. He said I could have the hat, and introduced himself. I don't remember his name, but it was short, like Tim, or Jim.., and he said he was originally from Pennsylvania, and had been living in those mountains for quite some time. He also said he was a Mennonite...
 

strawberrru

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Oct 5, 2005
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Stodgord-i feel very dominicanized after living in the campo for 6 weeks and being the only gringa around. but i absolutely love it.

mirador, i didn't think i mentioned i was mennonite. how did you figure that out?
 
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strawberrru

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Oct 5, 2005
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Final installment...

Friday I got to go to Calle Conde and do the tourist thing. There is a hole-in-the-wall bar/restaurant that has really good juices. Stopped and had tres leche (I believe that is what it was called) and of course chinola juice. We also went to Mercado Modelo and bought paintings (3 small taino Indian art and two large ones plus the flag for RD$5000), wrap skirts, a huge Dominican flag, and some beautiful larimar. The Mercado was very empty and therefore we got a lot of good deals. We stopped at a plaza llama type store and bought coffee coups and spoons and other odd and ends. All in all it was a good morning of shopping.

Friday night was pretty typical. Sat outside by the colmado and listened to music, danced in the street, played some dominoes, and just walked around.

Saturday morning I got up and took an OMSA (bus) out to Hipodromo to visit my host family again. I played some more dominoes with the local men, who did not realize for awhile that I understand a lot of Spanish. Needless to say, I need to keep up on my domino skills because they get rusty and I was making pretty silly mistakes. It started to rain really hard, so we picked up our game and moved to this little wooden hut that was empty but had just enough room for a game of dominoes. Later that day we had chinchin (a dish containing corn and coconut milk and other stuff) and pollo and while sitting at the table enjoying the food and company it started to rain again. Not only was I aware of this from hearing the rain beat down on the tin roof, but from the drops of water hitting my head. The tin had a few holes in it, so whenever it rained really hard for a long period of time, it would leak in the house. I had brought toys for the kids so we played with those and then eventually got dressed up to go to church for “la cena” (the dinner) which was on the roof of the church. After a long guagua ride and kids sleeping on your lap, we arrived, fashionably an hour late, and enjoyed typical Dominican food. We sang Christmas carols and enjoyed each other’s company until it started to sprinkle. We returned to home base where once again we hung out at the colmado.

Sunday we went to church and then came home and cooked for what we through would be 4 people. But at church learned that 4 more would be coming. So then it was going to be 8 people. Next thing we knew, we were feeding at least 11 people. My host grandmother showed up, unexpected, from the campo right after church. She brought yucca, batatas, and a lot of arepa. The afternoon then consisted of more family stopping in to see Mama. I do not know how people knew she was in town because there wasn’t a phone in the house, but somehow they knew.

Monday morning I finished packing up my stuff (and stocked up on brugal) and my host family had found a local guy that would take me to the airport for US$20. I flew the new delta route from SDQ to Atlanta which was really nice. It was a 757, we got a movie, and a meal. The plane was very empty and a lot of crew so we got a lot of individual service. The flight was about 3 ? hours but it was nice to go through customs in Atlanta rather than in Miami or Ft Lauderdale. I believe I was able to get off the plane and get to my next gate within 30-45 minutes. I was very impressed at the speed.

If you actually made it to the end, I hope you could see just a little bit of the wonderful trip I had to the DR. Hopefully someday I can work down there and live there but as the locals say “Si Dios quiere”. Thanks for reading! :)
 
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aegap

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Mar 19, 2005
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strawberrru, I read your entire trip report and enjoyed it very much.

Is Goshen the university you attended?
 

lindalin1

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Jan 2, 2006
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I taught english in the dominican and happened to be married to one while I was there...I have seen the entire domincan and experienced a culture that no one in canada, US or Europe could ever understand...I look Dominican but my nationality is mixed with indian and puerto rican..so when I opened my mouth, I gave myself away...never have I seen cars in such bad condition...they would never pass the emitions test here in canada, let alone impounded for being such a sore on the eyes and could possibly cause accidents on the road from people being soooo flabagasted at seeing such wrecks...let's not get to the guagas
 

aegap

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Mar 19, 2005
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On my last trip to the DR, I came across a group of your fellows working in the campo. I asked them about their experience in the countryside and what they recounted was very similar to what you wrote. Like Mirador, I was really impressed by their selflessness.
 
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strawberrru

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Oct 5, 2005
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what part of the campo and when was it? it is a wonderful program and i still realize 1 1/2 years later how it has impacted my life and current work.