Surfing Playa Encuentro

tjmurray

Bronze
Aug 11, 2006
627
68
0
I was fortunate enough to spend the past Thanksgiving weekend learning to surf at Playa Encuentro in Cabarete. For four days, 321 Takeoff surf school and its owner, Marcus Bohm, showed me the ropes and now all I do is dream of my next trip to Playa Encuentro.

Day 1 (Friday Nov. 28th)

I’ve been to the North Coast numerous times but had never visited Playa Encuentro, although I had heard the name mentioned on many occasions as “the spot” for surfing in the Dominican Republic. At about 7:30 am I arrived with Marcus and several others either renting a surfboard that day or taking the course like myself. His business is just a small hut with numerous surfboards right along the beach; exactly how I had imagined it before coming. Before anyone did anything, we sat and watched the water for a good 15 minutes. “You never jump right in,” Marcus said. “You should always study the waves and wind before you begin.” In all honesty, I was happy to watch. For the first time I was looking at some real waves in the DR. I grew up on the Jersey Shore and we did a lot of bodyboarding and bodysurfing with plenty of waves. I personally get bored at the DR’s many “tranquil calm water” beaches, it almost sounds cliche. Finally, I was getting into some rougher waters.

To begin, Marcus oriented me on the surfboard and then taught me the proper body positioning, how to paddle and how to stand up on a stationary board he had mounted just for beginners like myself. From here I was given a surfboard he referred to as “the door” because of its enormous size. He explained to me that beginners have to start with the big ones. Before the trip, I had imagined myself with one of those small sleek looking boards, ripping through waves and just looking flat out cool, instead, I was struggling to carry “the door” to the beach.

Marcus introduced me to one of his instructors named Michel who accompanied me out to my first try in the water. To begin, we were only going to work with the white water, which meant me catching waves that had already broken. Michel held the board for me as I got in a good position and told me to paddle when the first white water wave came. He let go and I stood up. First try. Like I said, I grew up on the Jersey Shore but I never really surfed, although I used to stand up on my bodyboard for the hell of it sometimes. Well, I guess that past experience helped because Michel gave me a few tips and then simply gave me the board to practice on my own. I had conquered the hardest part for beginners, so he said, I had stood up and ridden on my first attempt. For the next few hours, with breaks of coarse, I got pretty damn good with the white water and was ready for a bigger challenge. Really, the next challenge was to paddle all the way out and try and catch one of the big waves as it broke. That’s where all the advanced surfers were, doing the same things I had dreamed about, but for now, I still had my trusty “door” at my side.


Day 2 (Nov. 29th)

Because of the prior day’s success, I graduated to a smaller Malibu surfboard. Still far from the small sleek ones, but at least it wasn’t “the door”. In any case, the Malibu sounds much cooler. I think we can all agree on this one.

My goal to paddle all the way out came true right away as Marcus accompanied me past the breakers. Listen, I go to the gym 5-6 days a week religiously and I was amazed at just how hard it was to paddle past all those waves. I may work my muscles with weight but not in this way. If it wasn’t for Marcus motivating me, I probably would’ve turned back as wave after wave crashed on my head. After what seemed like an eternity, I was beyond what Marcus called “the impact zone” and could sit on my board to catch my breath.

After a nice break and some orientation from Marcus, he asked if I was ready to catch a real wave and I was. So, we paddled in a bit and there came a wave that excited everybody. I got in my position and paddled along side Marcus to catch it. Needless to say, he caught the wave, and the wave caught me. If I remember correctly, I think I stood up for a millisecond before I was driven into the sand below. Fortunately, the ocean decided to spit me out after tumbling me for a good distance. Not to be outdone though, I got right back on the board and caught the shoulder of another wave and rode it in all the way to the shore, about 100 meters, much to the approval of Marcus.


Day 3 (Nov. 30th)

I paddled all the way out this morning with one of the instructors and two young guys from Belgium who were also learning. I stayed with my Malibu because Marcus said I should learn to use that one well before going smaller. The paddle out was easier than the day before but man it was tough. It also didn’t help that I was arriving at my hotel each night around 3 am to wake up at 6 am; “The life of a surfer,” Marcus says. Once again, I was destroyed by the first wave I attempted to get, and worse of all, I got stuck in the impact zone and was getting bombarded by oncoming waves. Although I was taught how to defend myself from the waves and get past them, I was out of breath and a bit nervous so I just got out. Feeling the ocean had gotten the best of me, I took a long break on the benches at the school.

After I regrouped, I grabbed my board and paddled out by myself for the first time. After a few missed attempts, I got one!! I put in practice everything I had learned: good positioning, front of the board out of the water, strong paddle, patience to get some speed on the board and then pop up. It worked and I was off. I rode that wave all the way back to the shoreline and was incredibly siked. I had told one of the girls at the surf school on the first day that by the third, I would catch my own wave. I told her this as I fumbled to pick up “the door” so I don’t know if she took me seriously. Either way, I achieved what I wanted on my own and it was such a rush.


Day 4 (Dec. 1)

I had to get back to Santo Domingo but I made one more quick stop at the school because I needed to feel that rush again. After paddling out myself, even though several days of little sleep and lots of salt water in my lungs were weighing me down, I didn’t catch one wave, but two. The second one I rode all the way in to end on a high note.

I must admit that this past weekend at Playa Encuentro was a memorable one. Marcus and his team are excellent. They are professional, down to earth, patient and just flat out cool people. I now have a place to go at Playa Encuentro whenever I return. Besides instructions, his school also sells and rents surfboards. I plan to rent for my next few trips before I purchase my own. As Marcus said before I left, “a smaller board awaits me.”

I tip my cap to Marcus and his team for showing me an unforgettable weekend. The only negative part of the entire experience was my return to Santo Domingo, knowing Playa Encuentro is 3 1/2 hours from my apartment. No worries though, I will be planning as many trips as I can to visit this beautiful beach to one day surf that small sleek board and rip through the waves; “the door” hopefully being just a fond memory.

You can see a few pics here: Palya Encuentro-321 Takeoff - DR1 Media Gallery

For more information about 321 Takeoff visit 321takeoff.com or call Marcus Bohm at (809) 963-7873.
 
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CFA123

Silver
May 29, 2004
3,512
413
83
Great post TJ.

You should try to get time to come up & watch the Masters of the Ocean Tournament that Marcus puts on each year (generally February?). Guys compete for top honors in kite, windsurf, and surfing. The 'Master of the Ocean' has the top combined score in all 3 events.

Master of the Ocean, Windsurf, Surfing, Kitesurfing Triathlon of Riding Waves, Cabarete with cool vid of last year's finals - or so i think since i filmed & edited it :glasses:
 

CFA123

Silver
May 29, 2004
3,512
413
83
Trying to embed the video, not sure I can.
All filmed at Playa Encuentro
YouTube - 2008 Master of the Ocean Highlights

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/FvR8Dlwv6i...lor1=0x2b405b&color2=0x6b8ab6"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/FvR8Dlwv6io&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0&color1=0x2b405b&color2=0x6b8ab6" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
 
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tjmurray

Bronze
Aug 11, 2006
627
68
0
Great post TJ.

You should try to get time to come up & watch the Masters of the Ocean Tournament that Marcus puts on each year (generally February?). Guys compete for top honors in kite, windsurf, and surfing. The 'Master of the Ocean' has the top combined score in all 3 events.

Master of the Ocean, Windsurf, Surfing, Kitesurfing Triathlon of Riding Waves, Cabarete with cool vid of last year's finals - or so i think since i filmed & edited it :glasses:

Thanks, but I'm way ahead you. I hope to be up there for the Master of the Ocean this year. Marcus said it would be the last week of February and I'm looking forward to it.
 

anng3

Bronze
Jan 12, 2007
1,013
29
48
TJ Great post. Loved reading it. I'm a fellow water lover but not a surfer yet.