My wife and I just returned from a great vacation at a house in Las Terrenas and we wanted to share a bit of our first experience in the DR.
Heather and I had the pleasure of staying at Casa Pura Vida from March 17th, 2011 until March 26th (sadly still 2011 and not some other year, say 2015). We arrived in Samana on March 15th but had to stay at a 5-star all inclusive resort for a couple of days since some other couple got to CPV first (grrrrr). Believe me, resort living got really boring after about 4 hours.
While we are both extremely proficient at just chilling by the pool or on the beach with tropical cocktails (or Presidente?s), Heather and I love to get out and meet the locals and see what life is all about when we travel to different places. So to make getting around the Samana peninsula a little easier we had Miguel (Susan & Steve?s property manager) meet us at El Catey airport with a 4WD vehicle. El Catey is a 4 hour direct flight from Toronto. Miguel drove us back to Las Terrenas, parked the car beside a beautiful beach, and said ?see you in a couple of days?. ?But Miguel, where?s the roadmap??, I blurted out like the gringo I am. ?Oh, you won?t need a map? he said. ?There?s not that many roads.?
So we headed off to the resort in Samana City on the other side of the peninsula with Heather at the wheel (uh-oh!). Miguel was right. It?s tough to get lost there, even for us gringos. Now, having said that, I would not try the drive at night. The roads are narrow and wind through low mountains and have potholes you could hide from the cops in. The pavement is very patchy and most of the locals prefer to drive on the pavement, even when it?s located on YOUR side of the road. After you get used to the quads and motorcycles passing you on both sides, the dogs and children running out on the road, and heards of cattle taking up the entire roadway (who?da guessed the guy waving the red flag back there was signalling that?!?) driving in Samana gets to be pretty ho-hum. Just don?t try it in the dark.
When we got back to Las Terrenas on the 17th, we tried to reach Miguel to take us to the house, but there was no answer. Having done a little research prior to our trip, we knew where to go to get some help. We drove around until we found Big Dan?s Cafe Americano. Dan was there with one of his helpers doing a little renovating. We sat at the bar, ordered some drinks, and introduced ourselves. In a couple of minutes Dan had contacted Maruscha, Miguel?s wife. Maruscha found Miguel, Miguel found us and showed us the way to Casa Pura Vida. After he showed us around, he invited us to Maruscha?s birthday party which was being held at Big Dan?s that evening.
The house and grounds were exactly as photographed and described. The house is spacious, simple, clean, and very tastefully decorated. We immediately felt at home. We made dinner reservations for Los Pinos (just around the corner from CPV). But before dinner we walked down to Dan?s for the party and some local rum punch. We got there just in time to sing happy birthday to Maruscha. We met their 9 month old daughter, Faye, and a few other people (hi Ed and Hippie), and then went Los Pinos for dinner (quite good).
On Saturday we had the most amazing time. If you come here you have to go on the Quad (ATV) tour with Razor Tours. Melvin and his crew are very well organized and go to great lengths to keep you safe and secure while you travel through the roadways, the back country, the villages, and the beautiful beaches of the Samana peninsula. We stopped at Playa Rincon for a couple of hours for swimming, sunning, and a wonderful Dominican lunch that was included in the price of the tour. Heather and I were the only ones to sign on for the whole day, so the afternoon found us trying to keep up with Pedro and his sidekick while we toured an incredible tropically-prehistoric part of the world. ?Pedro, you?re not going to try to pass that cement truck doing 90 KPH are you? Ahhhhhhhhhh?? Oh well, we lived to tell about it.
We?re not exactly sure of the sequence of events over the next few days, but it went something like this:
Wake up when it pleases us.
Have coffee at (or in) the pool.
Read a bit by the pool.
Go to the beach out in front of CPV.
Go to Mojitos (bar/restaurant at ?our? beach) for lunch.
Wander in to town.
Stop by Dan?s. Presidente?s.
Back to CPV and read by the pool.
Cocktails.
Back to the beach.
Either Bar-B-Q, cook, or go out for dinner.
Back to CPV.
Play cards or backgammon.
Sleep, Rinse, Repeat.
I know, it?s a tough life.
We had brought along some school supplies and asked Miguel where they could be put to good use. He gave us Jose?s phone number. Jose operates a mission/library that provides teaching, art and reading programs free of charge to anyone who comes to his door. Books are loaned to anyone who wants them. We went to meet Jose, his students, and his staff of volunteers. The library is very well organized and appears to be a wonderful haven for many deserving people. They have around 7,000 books at the moment, but are always in need or more. Their biggest requirement is for hard-cover Spanish books of any type and any age, although the little ones love to read fairy tales (so much so, the soft-cover books only last a couple of months). It would be great if everyone visiting CPV could bring a few books with them and ask Miguel for Jose?s phone number.
One night we splurged and ate at Mi Corazon. When I say ?splurge? I infer that we paid almost as much for a night out as we would in Ontario. Food and drink in general is very affordable on the Samana peninsula. Mi Corazon is a magnificent Spanish Hacienda located in the middle of Las Terrenas. The 2 story structure has an open air middle courtyard with covered seating around the perimeter. Daniel, the proprietor has done a superb job of blending local ingredients with a progressive and artistic style of cooking. I would have a difficult time saying it was not the best meal of my life. The ambiance and romantic atmosphere are beautifully augmented by the mariachis that wander in and perform for the patrons.
No matter where you go in this world there is always someone who sticks in your mind as ?the character?. Las Terrenas is no exception. Frito is a kind, hard working, fun-loving, ?jack of all trades?. We got to know him quite well as there were a couple of small issues that needed his expert attention while we were there. It really was a pleasure helping him solve the problems (which I am certain he could have accomplished on his own). It is easy to see why Susan and Steve keep him around.
Our last night at CPV was Friday. We thought we would walk down to the Co-op for some eggs for breakfast the next morning. We had to pass Big Dan?s on the way back so we stopped in for a Presidente and a White Russian. Within 5 minutes Miguel, Maruscha, and baby Faye were sitting at our table enjoying some cocktails with us (not Faye, she was teething). Before long Frito stopped by and stayed for a few minutes (we?re buddies now). Heather got her ?baby fix? when she got to hold Faye for about 15 minutes. On the walk home Heather and Maruscha chatted and are now Facebook friends. It?s funny how a 20 minute outing to get eggs can turn into a 2 hour visit with such great people.
The following day, after a morning at ?our? beach and lunch at Mojitos, Miguel came by and dragged us into the 4WD kicking and screaming. He then had the nerve to drive us back to the airport and leave us there with our suitcases and a few souvenirs. Oh well, there?s always next year.
Susan and Steve, thanks for some wonderful memories.
Heather and I had the pleasure of staying at Casa Pura Vida from March 17th, 2011 until March 26th (sadly still 2011 and not some other year, say 2015). We arrived in Samana on March 15th but had to stay at a 5-star all inclusive resort for a couple of days since some other couple got to CPV first (grrrrr). Believe me, resort living got really boring after about 4 hours.
While we are both extremely proficient at just chilling by the pool or on the beach with tropical cocktails (or Presidente?s), Heather and I love to get out and meet the locals and see what life is all about when we travel to different places. So to make getting around the Samana peninsula a little easier we had Miguel (Susan & Steve?s property manager) meet us at El Catey airport with a 4WD vehicle. El Catey is a 4 hour direct flight from Toronto. Miguel drove us back to Las Terrenas, parked the car beside a beautiful beach, and said ?see you in a couple of days?. ?But Miguel, where?s the roadmap??, I blurted out like the gringo I am. ?Oh, you won?t need a map? he said. ?There?s not that many roads.?
So we headed off to the resort in Samana City on the other side of the peninsula with Heather at the wheel (uh-oh!). Miguel was right. It?s tough to get lost there, even for us gringos. Now, having said that, I would not try the drive at night. The roads are narrow and wind through low mountains and have potholes you could hide from the cops in. The pavement is very patchy and most of the locals prefer to drive on the pavement, even when it?s located on YOUR side of the road. After you get used to the quads and motorcycles passing you on both sides, the dogs and children running out on the road, and heards of cattle taking up the entire roadway (who?da guessed the guy waving the red flag back there was signalling that?!?) driving in Samana gets to be pretty ho-hum. Just don?t try it in the dark.
When we got back to Las Terrenas on the 17th, we tried to reach Miguel to take us to the house, but there was no answer. Having done a little research prior to our trip, we knew where to go to get some help. We drove around until we found Big Dan?s Cafe Americano. Dan was there with one of his helpers doing a little renovating. We sat at the bar, ordered some drinks, and introduced ourselves. In a couple of minutes Dan had contacted Maruscha, Miguel?s wife. Maruscha found Miguel, Miguel found us and showed us the way to Casa Pura Vida. After he showed us around, he invited us to Maruscha?s birthday party which was being held at Big Dan?s that evening.
The house and grounds were exactly as photographed and described. The house is spacious, simple, clean, and very tastefully decorated. We immediately felt at home. We made dinner reservations for Los Pinos (just around the corner from CPV). But before dinner we walked down to Dan?s for the party and some local rum punch. We got there just in time to sing happy birthday to Maruscha. We met their 9 month old daughter, Faye, and a few other people (hi Ed and Hippie), and then went Los Pinos for dinner (quite good).
On Saturday we had the most amazing time. If you come here you have to go on the Quad (ATV) tour with Razor Tours. Melvin and his crew are very well organized and go to great lengths to keep you safe and secure while you travel through the roadways, the back country, the villages, and the beautiful beaches of the Samana peninsula. We stopped at Playa Rincon for a couple of hours for swimming, sunning, and a wonderful Dominican lunch that was included in the price of the tour. Heather and I were the only ones to sign on for the whole day, so the afternoon found us trying to keep up with Pedro and his sidekick while we toured an incredible tropically-prehistoric part of the world. ?Pedro, you?re not going to try to pass that cement truck doing 90 KPH are you? Ahhhhhhhhhh?? Oh well, we lived to tell about it.
We?re not exactly sure of the sequence of events over the next few days, but it went something like this:
Wake up when it pleases us.
Have coffee at (or in) the pool.
Read a bit by the pool.
Go to the beach out in front of CPV.
Go to Mojitos (bar/restaurant at ?our? beach) for lunch.
Wander in to town.
Stop by Dan?s. Presidente?s.
Back to CPV and read by the pool.
Cocktails.
Back to the beach.
Either Bar-B-Q, cook, or go out for dinner.
Back to CPV.
Play cards or backgammon.
Sleep, Rinse, Repeat.
I know, it?s a tough life.
We had brought along some school supplies and asked Miguel where they could be put to good use. He gave us Jose?s phone number. Jose operates a mission/library that provides teaching, art and reading programs free of charge to anyone who comes to his door. Books are loaned to anyone who wants them. We went to meet Jose, his students, and his staff of volunteers. The library is very well organized and appears to be a wonderful haven for many deserving people. They have around 7,000 books at the moment, but are always in need or more. Their biggest requirement is for hard-cover Spanish books of any type and any age, although the little ones love to read fairy tales (so much so, the soft-cover books only last a couple of months). It would be great if everyone visiting CPV could bring a few books with them and ask Miguel for Jose?s phone number.
One night we splurged and ate at Mi Corazon. When I say ?splurge? I infer that we paid almost as much for a night out as we would in Ontario. Food and drink in general is very affordable on the Samana peninsula. Mi Corazon is a magnificent Spanish Hacienda located in the middle of Las Terrenas. The 2 story structure has an open air middle courtyard with covered seating around the perimeter. Daniel, the proprietor has done a superb job of blending local ingredients with a progressive and artistic style of cooking. I would have a difficult time saying it was not the best meal of my life. The ambiance and romantic atmosphere are beautifully augmented by the mariachis that wander in and perform for the patrons.
No matter where you go in this world there is always someone who sticks in your mind as ?the character?. Las Terrenas is no exception. Frito is a kind, hard working, fun-loving, ?jack of all trades?. We got to know him quite well as there were a couple of small issues that needed his expert attention while we were there. It really was a pleasure helping him solve the problems (which I am certain he could have accomplished on his own). It is easy to see why Susan and Steve keep him around.
Our last night at CPV was Friday. We thought we would walk down to the Co-op for some eggs for breakfast the next morning. We had to pass Big Dan?s on the way back so we stopped in for a Presidente and a White Russian. Within 5 minutes Miguel, Maruscha, and baby Faye were sitting at our table enjoying some cocktails with us (not Faye, she was teething). Before long Frito stopped by and stayed for a few minutes (we?re buddies now). Heather got her ?baby fix? when she got to hold Faye for about 15 minutes. On the walk home Heather and Maruscha chatted and are now Facebook friends. It?s funny how a 20 minute outing to get eggs can turn into a 2 hour visit with such great people.
The following day, after a morning at ?our? beach and lunch at Mojitos, Miguel came by and dragged us into the 4WD kicking and screaming. He then had the nerve to drive us back to the airport and leave us there with our suitcases and a few souvenirs. Oh well, there?s always next year.
Susan and Steve, thanks for some wonderful memories.
