Jarabacoa and Santiago

BPL888

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Sep 7, 2004
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Had an uneventful and puntual flight into SDQ from Miami on American Airlines. After quick passage through immigration and customs I went to Avis to pick up my car. I had reserved it six months ago and figured it was all set as I am an Avis Prefered Customer. I was wrong. After stopping at the desk to do the papers, all seemed well so I went to the outside curb to wait for the Avis Courtesy Van as usual. I waited 40 minutes with no sign of Avis so took my three bags and dragged them the 100 yards over to the Avis car pickup area. The van was sitting there without a driver. After asking nicely WTF, I was asked to take a seat and my car would be ready shortly. After 40 more minutes I once again asked WTF and was told it was comming. When it showed up it took 15 more minutes to get the inspection done during which time we discovered it was almost out of gas. I was told to follow one of the employees to a gas station outside the airport so they could fill the tank on the Avis account. Not a good start but I was glad to be in the DR so I tried not to let it bother me. And this was after I discovered several days before my trip that Avis had raised the rate on my 12 day rental from $352 to $470 because of an increase in the Additional Liability Insurance. I had called Avis and they assured me that they would credit the difference when I returned after my trip and I am now awaiting that. In the future the new rates will apply. I then drove to the capital and stopped at Pollo Rey on the Conde to exchange some dollars at 37.7 pesos to the dollar. My next stop was Aparthotel Venezia located in the heart of Santo Domingo which is on Ave Independencia near the Conde. They have plenty of secure parking, check in was fast and friendly and a nice spacious room was RD$2000 per night with good A/C and plenty of hot water. I met my girlfriend and we went for dinner at the El Senorial Hotel that is a few blocks away and has outstanding Swiss food and reasonable prices. Bruchetta, Tentation Salad, Shrimp Crepes in Cream Sauce, Cheese Ravioli in a Swiss Cream Sauce and two glasses of wine came to RD$1800. The restaurant was full of Swiss expats and the owner was very friendly as always. After a stop at the nearby 24 hour phamacy to pick up a few forgotten items we spent a very quiet and peaceful night at the Venezia. In the AM we had a light breakfast in the cafe on the first floor and headed out. Before we left I made a reservation for a suite with a kitchen (RD$2500/night) for my next stay. We stopped at Supermecado National and loaded up on supplies for our hotel in Jarabacoa that has a full kitchen. Supermecado National has an excellent variety of all sorts of meat and vegetables as well as a geat selection of beer and wine. We stopped in San Cristobal to visit some family and then headed for the mountains. The two hour ride was pleasant and halfway between La Vega and Jarabacoa arrived at Brisas de Los Alpes Hotel.Brisa de los Alpes Mountain Resort In Domincan Republic It is a very nice and peaceful hotel with a nice pool and bar and restaurant. The duplex units are spacious with terrace, rear balcony and complete kitchen for RD$2000. Our unit had A/C (not needed) and two ceiling fans. It had a combination living room/kitchen/dining room and two bedrooms, one with satelite TV. Better rates are available for long stays. They request a deposit of 1/2 the total to hold your reservation. We did this by making a deposit to thier account in the capital a month before we came. Mike and Anna who run the place are very friendly and both speak english. It is a mixed development with privately owned viilas and properties and rental units. The pool area was very nice with a patio with food and beverage service. There is also a childrens pool and a nice playground area. The pool was only busy one day that we were there (Sunday) as they sell day passes. After a very peaceful night we were awakened by only the sounds of birds in the AM. We hung out for the morning and then took a ride to the new bakery in Jarabacoa to load up on some goodies Panaderia La Fleca It was excellent. We tried the macaroons and the chocolate filled crousants. We spent a few days planning and eating meals, lounging at the pool during the day, going for rides to Manabao and La Cieniga and then playing pool and sipping beer in the nice restaurant/bar at night and cathing up on the latest going ons on the late night telenovelas. Our next stop would be Santiago. To be continued......
 

BPL888

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Sep 7, 2004
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Santiago

First a correction to the first segment. The dinner at El Senorial Hotel in the capital as described was RD$1364 including tip. The trip from Bisas de Los Alpes into Santiago was about 45 minutes and we decided to stay at the Matum because of its proximity to the monumet, the pool and the price- RD$2500/night which includes a very good breakfast with eggs cooked to order. Finding the hotel was easy as it was on the right as soon as we entered the road that goes around the monument and it has big flashing "Casino" signs. Parking and check in was easy though the lack of elevators almost killed the doorman carrying our bags to the second floor. The room was very nice though the window, that could be opened, started at 6 ft off the ground. A chair was needed to look out of it. The room was comfortable and quiet with A/C and plenty of hot water and cable TV. The Matum is an older hotel and the wide hallway was nice but seemed dark. On further inspection it seems that every third lightbulb had been removed from the hall lights, perhaps to keep the light bill down. Down the hall from our room was a large display (model) and some very good photographs of "the Battle of Matum" that took place in and around the hotel. This was during the civil conflict in 1965 and somehow involved American Army helicopters. The pool was much nicer than I expected as it was very deep (12 ft?) and had a diving board which I did not try. There is no hotel restaurant except a "China Jade" that occupies one corner of the building, though there is food available through room service. There is an unadvertised colmado type place down by the pool that served small food items and beer and soda until 11 PM. There also is no hotel bar. Late one night (10:30) I tired of TV and thought I would go down for a beer. I was directed to the casino, passed through a metal detector, and then to a door marked "Vintage". When I tried to enter I was stopped by two beefy doormen that said I could not enter. When I explained that I was staying in the hotel and just wanted a beer they looked at each other and then said OK and let me pass after frisking me. Apparantly what I had found was the nightclub. I entered and sat completely alone under the disco ball with the music playing away. After two beers, still the only customer in the dimly lit place with the three or more doormen eyeing me suspiciously, I decided I had had enough of the Tuesday night nightlife and headed for the door. When I asked the doorman why there were no other customers he told me things don't get going until later and that they stay open until 6 AM. Maybe I'll try that next trip. Maybe not. Next: sights of the city..........
 

BPL888

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Sep 7, 2004
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Sights

In the AM we walked across the street to the large park next to the large theater. For some reason it was closed off so all we could do was walk around the outside of it. The thing that struck me about the area was the lack of traffic compared to the capital. We walked around the perimeter of the monument to look at and read all the various statues. We then climbed the stairs up to the monument itself. I found the monument impressive with very interesting and educational displays. We walked up the stairs to each of the five floors (one is offices) and on each floor there was a polite and informed guide waiting to answer any questions we had. There is an elevator available for the disabled or elderly. On the top floor there is an observation platform that surrounds the monument and with the pay-per-view power binoculars offered an impressive view of Santiago and the surrounding area. I expected more of a crowd, perhaps groups of school kids, but we only saw a dozen other people on our visit. The entrance fee was RD$50 if I remember correctly and there were guide pamphlets available for sale in both English and Spanish. We then took a 10 minute ride to the Cento Leon Museum on Ave February 27. I had heard that it was good but I was very impressed by the physical building and the exhibits. There is an extensive one that displays Dominican life and culture and is extremely well done using audio and visual tools as well as many artifacts from Dominican life past and present. We spent an hour in this section and I don't think we saw everything in detail. We then went to the Modern Art exhibit. It was equally impressive. I was very surprised to see many works by Picasso and Matisse. There also were exhibits displaying children's art and asking the question "What Does Modern Art Mean to You". Very well done and thought provoking. My hat is off to the people that put this museum together. There were some well behaved student groups touring this museum. Admission is free on Tuesdays. We then went back to the hotel for a swim and a nap. That evening we had dinner at Kukara-Makara in the shadow of the monument. It was odd to see the employees dressed in cowboy outfits complete with six guns in the street encouraging people to come in for dinner. I thought that a restaurant with such a hokey come on would have less than stellar food but I was very impressed. We both had steak dishes with different sauces and they were very good. They had very different side dishes to offer and some tempting deserts. We lingered over a second glass of wine and watched the steady parade on the sidewalk outside. The total damage for dinner was about RD$1500. We did not sample any of the other night life on offer in the area, though we were tempted. Next Salcedo..........
 

Hillbilly

Moderator
Jan 1, 2002
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Jesus man!!! God made paragraphs to make these very good trip reports more readable and therefore even more enjoyable!

Please, stream-of-consciousness went out of style decades ago...Hit the freakin' ENTER bar every once in a while...

These reports are worth reading, but a significant number of people will take one look at that block of type and glaze over..

And here I though that maybe the "P" in you name stood for Paragraphs!!!

HB
 

BPL888

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Sep 7, 2004
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Salcedo

After breakfast and easy exit from the Matum and Santiago we headed out of town and towards Salcedo and the Mirabal Sisters Museum. The road through Moca was uneventful except at one point we stopped at a roadside colmado for a cold drink and when we exited the car we were overcome by an extreemly strong smell that I figure to be a pig farm. It took all day to get that smell out my nose and the car.
After passing through Salcedo, about a 40 minute drive, we came to the museum. Parking was easy and secure and the grounds of the museum were very nice with flower beds and artwork. At the ticket window we were extreemly suprised to be greated by Dede', the surviving Mirabal sister. She was very pleasant and my girlfriend was thrilled to have met her. The price of admission included a guide that walked us through the house and the grounds and explained the story of the Mirabal family. We also viewed thier graves which have been moved to the grounds of the museum. All of the contents of the house were very well preserved and displayed. When we were leaving my girfriend bought a book about the sisters and Dede' was nice enough to sign it for her. This was the highlight of the trip for my girlfriend.
When we left we went one street down from the museum and followed the signs to the "Casa De Queso" a local all natural cheese shop. After trying several of the free samples that were offered we loaded up on the excellent cheese as well as crackers and honey. The owner of the shop was very engaging and we spent a while chatting with him. The cheese was a big hit when we got back to San Cristobal. The next time I will likely double my order.
We had a few days with no plans but we decided that we had enjoyed the Hotel Brisas de Los Alpes in Jarabacoa so much we decided to return there. The weather did not cooperate much and it stayed ovecast with scattered showers for the next few days. We took another ride to Monabao with plans to stop at one of the swimming holes along the way, but the mountain rain was enough to dissuade my warm blooded girlfriend. We took a ride down the hill to stop at one of the "jonnie-cake" vendors at the bottom. We took the ten minute ride into La Vega to spend a little while wandering around the La Sirena superstore. They seem to have pretty much anything you would want in that store so we bought some shrimp and pasta for dinner. No sun but a nice couple of days. Next-back to the capital........
 

Hillbilly

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Jan 1, 2002
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Now that is a little better.

One of the things I like about these posts is the fact that these folks go to places that many of us who live here just don't bother to visit. And that is a good thing.

HB
 

BPL888

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Sep 7, 2004
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Back To The Capital

We went for a swim in the pool in the AM and then departed for the capital. There is a weekend market of mostly clothes that opens up at the base of the mountains under blue tarps just before you hit the highway. We stopped and looked around but found nothing of much interest.
On the road between La Vega and Bonao there is a string of several roadside BBQ places, each one not much more than a grill and and a cook. After passing a few we stopped at one to have a look. They had various cuts of pork and after talking to the cook we decided that he seemed to know what he was doing and the samples were excellent and very moist. We bought several pounds to eat for our lunch and to share with family back in San Cristobal. It was very good but we also used a fair amount of lime to be safe.
To skip the traffic in the capital we took the side road from Villa Altagracia to San Cristobal. This was a very pleasant winding road that was in good condition. It may not have been faster than the highway but it was much more enjoyable. It enters San Cristoabal on the road near La Toma balanereo.
Once in San Cristobal center it is a zoo. Crowded, noisy and chaotic. We already missed the mountains. We stopped and had a late lunch with family and then left so we could get to the capital before dark. Several people we know have had problems on the road through Haina after dark so we wanted to avoid that.
We stayed at the Marriott Courtyard on Maximo Gomez for three nights. The rooms are normaly US$100 including tax on weekends but I had some Marriott points to burn so we only payed for one night. During the week the prices are much higher(US$175 ?) to soak the bussiness people.
I liked the hotel very much. Service was excellent and friendly and everything is modern. If you can get a room that ends in 11 (211,311 etc) as they have balconies with small tables as opposed to only windows in the other rooms. The beds are very comfortable. The rooms are good size with flat screen TV's. They have free, very fast, computers in the lobby. Parking is secure and very convienient. The bar is expensive and empty most of the time. The pool is very small but refreshing. There is a guest laundry room for doing your wash and a medium size gym. The breakfast buffet was excellent but overpriced at US$12. It is included in some rates. There is a small market in the lobby open 24/7 that offers beer, wine, sandwiches and snacks, all way overpriced but convienient. I have stayed in both this hotel and the Jaragua Marriot and other than the pool, I prefer this one. There are two Metro stops within walking distance.
Next--the Book Fair........
 

BPL888

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Sep 7, 2004
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Metro, Bookfair, and Movies

We met some family members, including several children for a days activities in the capital. We first walked the two blocks from the hotel to the Metro station on Maximo Gomez and rode it down to Estacion Feria (PLaza de los Heros) to meet everyone. We then all rode the Metro all the way to the end in Villa Mella. I thought the experience was excellent and the others, who had never ridden a subway agreed. The children got a big kick out of it. Economic and political arguments aside I thought it was well run, comfortable and reasonably priced. I come from Boston and the aging subway there has a lot more negatives to the one in Santo Domingo. It was 75% full and the standing up while riding is an aquired skill. Security was good and several seats were offered up to elderly people traveling with us. The view of the city from the elevated track was interesting in spots. We reversed direction at the end of the line and headed to the book fair.

The Metro stop at the Plaza de Cultura left us steps away from the International Book Fair that was held in the plaza for three weeks in May. Admission was free and we just took our time wandering through the fair. There was a very large selection of book vendors with large sections for small children, adolescents and adults. We made sure the kids looked at all the selections before deciding which books they wanted.There was no shortage of small items for sale for children to pester thier parents for. We then visited the food area for a snack before returning to buy the books before we left. There was even a used book section with very reasonable prices and a talented tout promising "ALL THE CLASSICS" although that was not exactly true, believe it or not. There were also many booths offering everything from holistic cures to language lessons. There were several stages putting in shows, skits, and various entertainment to please the masses. There were several exhibits in air conditioned trailers scattered throughout the fair The vendors were all extremely pleasant and helpfull. All in all a very enjoyable way to spend a few hours. They say it is the largest book fair in the Carribean. It was also open at night and we were told that it was very busy. It is an anual event and we plan to attend next year when it comes. The Marriot Courtyard is only two blocks away.

Having had enough of walking we stopped on Maximo Gomez at Pizza Mia for a cold drink and lunch before heading to the movies. We chose to see "RIO-3D" at the Accropolis Mall. Convienient secure parking was RD$25 in the lot next to the mall. The tickets for the 3PM show were RD$175 including the 3-D glasses. The 3-D effect delighted the kids as well as the adults and a few hours sitting in the A/C did us all good.

After the movie we saw the family off and headed back to the hotel. After a swim in the extremely small pool and a nap we decided to go to Cane restaurant on Abraham Lincoln for dinner. The parking is limited so we used the valet parking that they offered. We were offered a table in the busy lounge or the quiet restaurant. We chose the quiet side and had a very nice dinner with soft backround music and a botte of wine. She had a shrimp dish in a garlic sauce and I had beef cooked rare. Both were excellent. The service was very good, friendly and attentive. The whole meal with desert came to about RD$1900. I will definitly return to this restaurant.

We decided to go over to the lounge section of Cane for an after dinner drink. We settled in on the soft sofas and soon realized that we were out of our element. There was a steady stream of very young, very well dressed, apparently very well off clientele. The women were all very,very good looking with very expensive phones glued to thier hands. They all had on high heals and short, short, short skirts. If those skirts were any shorter they could have been wearing them for hats. It seems that short skirts are all the rage this year. My girlfrind was none to pleased by this turn of events, or by the look on my face. I don't blame her for the pointed dominicana barbs she sent my way, but I also don't blame me for looking. I mean, DAMN!! We stayed for one more drink and then made our way passed the line of Lexuses, Mercedes and BMWs in front of the building to collect my Nissan Intermediate. A nice way to finish this trip and this trip report.
 

keepcoming

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May 25, 2011
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Kudos my friend. I have been here 26 years and yet you have done more than I or many have even attempted. Excellent review!!!! Gives me many ideas for when I have visitors. I seem to direct my visitors to the Hilton but more and more I am feeling the Marriott. Goes to show you there is a lot more here than one would think. Seriously loved the review.