Your wiring gauge will depend upon
#1 the amperage, if it has a significant surge you may need to factor that in.
#2 the distance
#3 the acceptable amount of temperature gain and voltage loss
I don't know what codes (if any) are applicable in the DR. In the US codes generally allow a smaller gauge of wire than is desired due to the voltage loss issues. Voltage loss from your batteries to your A/C when cloudy or in the evening might cause your A/Cs low voltage disconnect to kick in when your batteries still have enough juice. Heat is mostly an issue if the wires are enclosed in conduit, generally you up them to the next largest gauge. Codes may or may not be an issue, in the US other concerns dictate a heavier wire size. For a 60 foot run, I would guess (need to look it up) you'd need 6 gauge to keep the loss to acceptable levels, a seperate circuit going to each A/C.
If you can check on what the surge is (time and amps), and let me know the wire run, and I will look up the voltage loss for various gauges.
Also it sounds like the inverter you are thinking of is really a lot more than an inverter. I think you are talking a combination with a charge controller, circuit breakers, etc. I can find an inverter only, refurbed, and without the extras, in the states for under $2k that would do the job. I don't know about importing one to the DR or what else you might have there. Those power panels are mostly used in areas where they are required by code.
The 52v panels sound like they would be designed for grid tie inverters, what is the nominal system voltage (probably 36v?)? You might have trouble finding a charge controller that can deal with them. If you can you would need to either run your battery bank and appliances at the nominal system voltage, or use a MPPT (maximum power point tracking) charge controller capable of stepping the voltage down to a 24v bank; such inverters are more expensive but in some cases they are more efficient at putting the full power of the panel into the batteries (in cold, low charge conditions mainly).
You can not just take a 52v panel and expect 24v at double the amperage, the panel will only put out the maximum rated amperage at any voltage up to 52v minus wiring loss. Also realize that a 52v panel is actually less than 48v nominal system voltage, they raise the voltage quite a bit to deal with wiring loss between the panels and charge controller / batteries; some charge controllers can convert this for you (see above or google "MPPT charge controller")
The Sundanzers are supposed to be great fridges from everything I have heard. I don't know anyone who has one since they are a chest style and most people don't like that. BTW, they don't draw 17A, they take 17 Amp Hours per day (on average at specified temp); they are rated as taking 40-80 watts when running, with a surge low enough not to blow a 15A slow blow fuse.
Another excellent fridge (more expensive) is the SunFrost, I have a neighbor who has had one for 15+ years and loves it, availible ac or dc. I use an "ewave" that cost me $135 at a department store. While its small and takes more juice than a good fridge, I only needed to spend $400 for the panels to power it, so it saved me money over the others (and I get a decent freezer in it too).
My advice would still be to go with AC. I see DC as being a good thing only for small systems (remote cabin, RV, boat) or for always on loads when you don't want your inverter running 24/7 (cell phone chargers, answering machines, etc come to mind). I think you will find that in the long run you spend more money to set up a full sized house with DC appliances (harder to find and thus a worse value on average) and heavy wiring. I would need to know the lengths of the wire but I really think you will be spending a lot on it if you stick with 24v DC for everything; some of your wires might end up being long runs of welding cable (I've seen this!).
Also remember that if you opt for a high end Trace, you'll have it for a long time, many appliances will be replaced before it is (on average, YMMV).Exeltech might be a better choice as they are modular and have an even higher mean time between failures (18.5 years if I remember), plus are redundant.