Constanza, Jarabacoa & somewhere near Bonao

dawnwil

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Aug 27, 2003
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This road trip is a feast for the eyes.

Recommended for mountain lovers and anyone wishing to appreciate the scope and diversity of beauty in this country.

Escott and I began Friday afternoon, exiting the Autopista Duarte for Constanza. The road is narrow, constantly climbs, and gives new meaning to ?zigzag?. Expect to travel at 30 miles/hr max, although the max might be a lot less. Escott was driving. (Note to self: wear a crash helmet and lots of padding next trip.)

Note to everyone else: Be sure to phone a friend if you decide to make this trip on the fly, as we did. If one were to launch off the road, I doubt the wreak some thousand feet below would ever be noticed or found. Escott happened to speak to AZB, so he knew where we were? the debate was whether or not he?d remember if his good friend unexpectedly disappeared. There?s always the chance he?d assume the best? that Escott had found heaven with some remote female tribe.

Until you pass into the mountains for good, you?ll catch sweeping views of the country below, depending on whether you?re zigging or zagging. Each view is more spectacular than the last. At first, I wanted to stop and enjoy this view or that one, but as Escott said, ?they?re all views?.

The vegetation changes with the elevation, as does the air. Turn off the air conditioner and enjoy the coolness? later, you?ll need the heater. We?re still unsure what crop we saw clinging to the steepest hillsides?. Maybe coffee?

In the final miles to Constanza, the terrain levels and you pass one small town? the road to Jarabacoa splits from this town, 28 km to Jarabacoa. Hmm, we thought we?d be staying in Constanza for the night, not a good plan to backtrack the way we?d come 2 hours in the dark. But now there was a possibility of making it to Jarabacoa before nightfall. Great, more pedal to the metal.

The valley holding Constanza is surrounded by mountains on all sides, and is awesomely fertile. Everywhere, crops are growing? covered greenhouses with thousands of flowers, corn, cabbage, carrots, and who knows what else. We saw those little vegetable trucks laden with produce, each one loaded higher than the one before. In this valley, even the horses are fat. It appeared to us that this must be the bread basket of the country. Does anyone know?

Constanza is a thriving rural town? there?s a Caribe Tours bus station, so if you prefer to let someone else drive, you can make the trip and explore this piece of paradise.

? will break off now and continue on to Jarabacoa next post.
 

Hillbilly

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Jan 1, 2002
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That was coffee

Glad you folks made the trip but if you had talked to your "Friends" you could have gotten some inside information!

It really is spectacular. And you are right about the wreck not being found.
Last year some Boy Scouts found the wreck of a 1958 Chevrolet with three bodies inside....NOT!!!!

You'd be surprised how many people live on those mountainsides and NOTHING goes un-noticed.

One 'campesino" to another, just last week:

"Did you see that "rubia" peeing by the side of the road?"
"Yeah, but she wasn't really "rubia!"

Let's hear the rest!!
HB :D:D:D
 

juancarlos

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Sep 28, 2003
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Constanza is a thriving rural town… there’s a Caribe Tours bus station, so if you prefer to let someone else drive, you can make the trip and explore this piece of paradise. "

You mean there is now bus service from Sto. Domingo to Constanza? And if there is, do those buses take the same dangerous road you took or do they have a safer route? Does anyone know the answer?
 
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juancarlos said:
Constanza is a thriving rural town? there?s a Caribe Tours bus station, so if you prefer to let someone else drive, you can make the trip and explore this piece of paradise. "

You mean there is now bus service from Sto. Domingo to Constanza? And if there is, do those buses take the same dangerous road you took or do they have a safer route? Does anyone know the answer?
There's really only one way in to Constanza - and Caribe Tours takes it too. The secondary roads to Jarabacoa and San Jose de Ocoa are markedly worse.
 

Escott

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Hillbilly said:
Glad you folks made the trip but if you had talked to your "Friends" you could have gotten some inside information!
If I knew I was going to make the trip I may have asked:) We were just winging the trip back from the capital and ended up where and how we ended up.

It isn't too late to give the inside info my brother!

Escott
 

juancarlos

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Sep 28, 2003
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Porfio_Rubirosa said:
There's really only one way in to Constanza - and Caribe Tours takes it too. The secondary roads to Jarabacoa and San Jose de Ocoa are markedly worse.

Wow! Do you know Caribe Tours accident record on their way to Constanza? I guess they only dare make this trip during daytime. It must be 3x as dangerous at night, I suppose.
 

dawnwil

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Aug 27, 2003
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on the road to Jarabacoa

We left Constanza at 6:40 and given our off-road rally speed, hoped to reach Jarabacoa by nightfall. The dirt road was a 28 km trek, and gave new meaning to ?zigzag?.

Immediately, the road began to climb, and for most of the drive we traveled along ridges from one mountain peak to the next. I realized this some time after declaring, ?I think we?ve reached the top?. Escott, with his usual Escotticism, said, ?They?re all tops.?

The views were breathtaking in every direction. Countless times it appeared we had left humanity behind, only to find a little Dominican dwelling perched on the edge of one of those tops. The dwellings may have been simple, but how can one place a value on those views?

Somewhere up there, we cranked up the heat, and left the windows open to enjoy the chill in the air?reminded me of late autumn drives in a sweet little convertible in Canada.

At one strategic hairpin turn, we were surprised and worried to see the road fork. One road climbed left, and the other veered right. Not a sign in sight. Escott put on the brakes?only time during the entire trip, I might add?and we debated which way to go. The debate lasted at least 5 seconds; I guess no one will ever know how difficult it was for him to hold that brake for such a long time. He veered right. It took the better part of 5 seconds to discover the road joined up again the other side of the hairpin turn. What a hoot.

Sometime around nightfall, Escott broke the bad news. ?Think I missed a turn,? he said. What a joker, I thought. They?re all turns. ;)

But, he was serious. Early on, there had been a legitimate split in the road. Complete with sign. Naturally, we were traveling too fast to read it, so we held the straighter course. It was one of the few times the steering wheel was not in circular motion.

He was worried we had veered west of Jarabacoa and were nearing Haiti. ?This could get dangerous,? he said. ?But we have gas and can sleep in the car tonight without freezing.? I had no idea how close Jarabacoa was to the Haitian border. And to think, I had forsaken an offer of dinner cooked by Pib in her home, for this.

Now I must digress. I had heard about another troublesome road trip into Haiti. Marco, of Rocky?s fame, told me the story. Seems a newbie was driving to Moca with Marc and another friend. The newbie knew nothing of the surrounding geography, nor did he speak Spanish. When they reached the military station on the Moca road, Marc spoke a few words to the guard in Spanish. Then he said to Newbie, ?I hope you have your passport, because we have to pass through Haiti before reaching Moca. No, he did not have his passport. ?Ok, Marc told him. ?You stay here. We?ll pick you up on the way back.? The guard made to forcibly remove Newbie from the car. The poor man begged Marc and the other friend to not leave him behind.

What does all this have to do with the drive to Jarabacoa, you might ask? Simple. The other friend on that trip was Escott. Enough said. If I save one unsuspecting newbie from the torment, I am satisfied.

W reached Jarabacoa by 8 pm and checked into the Pindar Dorado.

to be continued?
 

Escott

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dawnwil said:
Sometime around nightfall, Escott broke the bad news. ?Think I missed a turn,? he said. What a joker, I thought. They?re all turns. ;)

But, he was serious. Early on, there had been a legitimate split in the road. Complete with sign. Naturally, we were traveling too fast to read it, so we held the straighter course. It was one of the few times the steering wheel was not in circular motion.

He was worried we had veered west of Jarabacoa and were nearing Haiti. ?This could get dangerous,? he said. ?But we have gas and can sleep in the car tonight without freezing.? I had no idea how close Jarabacoa was to the Haitian border. And to think, I had forsaken an offer of dinner cooked by Pib in her home, for this.

Now I must digress. I had heard about another troublesome road trip into Haiti. Marco, of Rocky?s fame, told me the story. Seems a newbie was driving to Moca with Marc and another friend. The newbie knew nothing of the surrounding geography, nor did he speak Spanish. When they reached the military station on the Moca road, Marc spoke a few words to the guard in Spanish. Then he said to Newbie, ?I hope you have your passport, because we have to pass through Haiti before reaching Moca. No, he did not have his passport. ?Ok, Marc told him. ?You stay here. We?ll pick you up on the way back.? The guard made to forcibly remove Newbie from the car. The poor man begged Marc and the other friend to not leave him behind.

What does all this have to do with the drive to Jarabacoa, you might ask? Simple. The other friend on that trip was Escott. Enough said. If I save one unsuspecting newbie from the torment, I am satisfied.

W reached Jarabacoa by 8 pm and checked into the Pindar Dorado.

to be continued?
Marco and I do the Haitian Border deal just like salt and pepper. I crank him up and he goes right on without even having to look at me. Funny thing about it was that after we let the guy in on the Joke he said he should have known better since he is a ships captain for a living and knows where we were.

Reminds me of when I am with Pavan and AZB. Pavan cranks him up and I push him over the edge! LOL Cant wait till Pavan returns this month "yeah right!" so we can crank up the old man again.

Hey you forgot about the 15 minute wife AZB had on Sunday! I was the only one to even kiss her:)

Escott
 

Larry

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Mar 22, 2002
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Dawn, I know what you mean about getting into a car with Escott behind the wheel.

I am enjoying this trip report. Reading it, I can imagine the cool air and the breathtaking views. You definately have a talent for storytelling.

Larry
 

dawnwil

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Aug 27, 2003
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Hillbilly: I knew it! Lost forever, unless a nice surprise for an anthropologist one day. A mystery for him or her too, given the contents of the vehicle... 50 kg of beeswax, 75 kg of gesso (plaster), etc. I fear your wonderful inside track would have been wasted... we were sightseeing like those American college grads who do 'all of Europe' in two weeks. hee.

But I'm so glad we made the trip; what I had imagined is even better in the real, so I plan to go back and explore, and will be glad for any words of wisdom you may offer.

juancarlos: Methinks the road is safe, if driven for the conditions. As Porfio said, it is the road to Constanza, and it is paved and in good shape-- much better shape than the roads I drive every day around Sosua. Just be sure you're brakes are in top condition before you begin.

Larry: Thanks, guy. And LOL... it's good to know another who knows.

Escott: shhh! You're like the bad kid who tells the plot before the other kids see the film... I said, 'to be continued'.
 

Escott

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Larry said:
Dawn, I know what you mean about getting into a car with Escott behind the wheel.

I am enjoying this trip report. Reading it, I can imagine the cool air and the breathtaking views. You definately have a talent for storytelling.

Larry
I think Ladybird is calling you Larry. Better run and see what she wants my friend.

By the way, was it me that crashed my car on the Tappan Zee Bridge a few weeks ago and claimed not to be drunk and just disorientated to the cop? Ah, I remember, it wasn't me after all. Silly me...

weeeeeeeeeee
 

AlaninDR

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So many of life's hidden mysteries are being revealed here, can hardly wait for what's next.
 

D.D.

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"juancarlos: Methinks the road is safe, if driven for the conditions. As Porfio said, it is the road to Constanza, and it is paved and in good shape-- much better shape than the roads I drive every day around Sosua. Just be sure you're brakes are in top condition before you begin."

Yeah right! HB. Read on

My family and I decided to go up the mountains and visit a friend in Los Montones (about half hour drive from San Jose De las Matas), to get away from the heat, humidity and mosquitoes of Northwest for the weekend. I loaded up my wife and the two kids ages 2 and 4 on Saturday afternoon and headed Southeast all excited. Two hours into our journey, we started negotiating those curvy narrow roads through the mountains going up and down the snaky highway.

As we were driving at a constant speed of around 45-50 mph approaching a left hand curve, I noticed a blue Toyota Something (Camry I think) coming down the hill from the opposite direction. There were two or three vehicles behind me which I was keeping an eye through the rear view mirror for quite a while and there was a car in front of me as I eased the truck while entering the curve. On the right is a cliff that If I was to estimate the distance to the bottom, I would say it is at least a 200 feet drop. I remember thinking the Toyota was traveling at an excessive speed for the conditions of the road. He must have been going 70+mph when he approached the curve! He didn't make it. Lost control and CRASH! into my truck!

The impact was so hard the little Toyota threw our F-250 super Duty monster out of the road toward the cliff. I fought to bring it back, but by that time the Toyota had gone through the whole left front-end that steering was fruitless. By some miracle, the truck was back into the middle of the road. The Toyota was mangled beyond recognition. The two passengers were trapped in it. I checked the condition of my family. Everything was ok. I think my children were just wondering if this whole thing was some sort of a game like in the demolishing derby. They just sat there strapped in their child seats with their sparkling eyes asking for an explanation. The first thing my four year old daughter said was " hey daddy, you broke my car!" hehehe. My wife was ok. She didn't even look shocked.

My side of the door was inoperable. I looked out the window and noticed that the outside rear view mirror on the door was intact. It was not even folded back! The Toyota was below the line of my rear view mirror. I climbed out of the truck through the right door and went immediately in front of the truck warning the approaching traffic to avoid further accident as the road was littered with debris and oil. Plus it was a fairly blind curve. Some people were busy pulling those two poor souls out of the car. By the time I got help from someone to direct the traffic I walked to the Toyota to see what was going on. The two guys were just put in a car and leaving towards Santiago. To this moment I don?t know of their condition, if they are dead or alive. I checked this afternoon with the police and they haven?t been able to locate them yet.

I drove carefully, I had good brakes e.t.c. Those road are dangerous because of some idiot drivers. I was pleased that the investment we made in buying a big SUV paid off. Scott, Robert, and dawnwil rode in our truck a couple weeks ago and they thought it was too big. It was big alright, but when you get in an accident such as ours, the other guy is the one who gets hurt. It is no longer our truck. It is our ex-truck. It is totaled! oh well.... it did it's Job.

I checked the tire tracks on the side of the road. We were only a half a meter from going over the edge of the cliff. Phew! Anyways, I had called our friend we were going to visit and he was at our side a half hour later. The police was there and they released me under the custody of my friend (an influential man in the area) to take my family to his house and report back at the police station in two hours in San Jose de las Matas. On the way up, I made a couple of phone calls to "people in high places", and by the time we arrived at the house there was a message waiting that I don't need to go the police station and that I can send a rep on Monday. Cool!

The fun started and I had one of the best and most memorable weekend I ever had up in the mountains at my friends house.

Glad to be Alive,

D.D.
 
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Larry

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Escott said:
I think Ladybird is calling you Larry. Better run and see what she wants my friend.

By the way, was it me that crashed my car on the Tappan Zee Bridge a few weeks ago and claimed not to be drunk and just disorientated to the cop? Ah, I remember, it wasn't me after all. Silly me...

weeeeeeeeeee

Haha. So I totaled my car, it was time for a new one anyway. I wasn't drunk either. Did I get arrested? Did I even get a ticket? Of course not so there you go.

YOU can run and see what Ladybird wants. You are alot closer to her than I am :). Tell her I said "hi".

Larry
 

ustelephone

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Next time try the road that goes from Constanza to San Jose de Ocoa. Incredible, but only to be done in a 4x4. There is an ancient Indian pyramid at the top of a 10,200' ft peak that you pass. It's about a 6 hour drive and you won't see another vehicle or any culmados. Only for a the fearless!
 

Rocky

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ustelephone said:
Next time try the road that goes from Constanza to San Jose de Ocoa. Incredible, but only to be done in a 4x4. There is an ancient Indian pyramid at the top of a 10,200' ft peak that you pass. It's about a 6 hour drive and you won't see another vehicle or any culmados. Only for a the fearless!
Did it on a trail bike a few years back and did see that Indian construction and one house with a helipad.
4 Hours in the rain and mud. What a blast.
 

dawnwil

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D.D. said:
I drove carefully, I had good brakes e.t.c. Those road are dangerous because of some idiot drivers. I was pleased that the investment we made in buying a big SUV paid off. Scott, Robert, and dawnwil rode in our truck a couple weeks ago and they thought it was too big. It was big alright, but when you get in an accident such as ours, the other guy is the one who gets hurt. It is no longer our truck. It is our ex-truck. It is totaled! oh well.... it did it's Job.


Glad to be Alive,

D.D.

Now I'm scared. And so relieved to know everyone was unharmed... I honestly wouldn't have imagined anything totaling that truck.

The road to Constanza is so busy... all those vegetable trucks coming and going as a matter of business, supply lines for fuel, etc. Early on, we found ourselves behind a big gas tanker, and Scott got past it asap-- he didn't want to be caught behind in case someone careened around a corner and hit the truck.

I honestly couldn't imagine anyone driving so recklessy on such roads. I am used to the mountains in Montana and Alberta... drivers are very aware of the conditions and know to respect them.

So here is the rest of the story: I have been kidding around about our
road rally driving for fun and exaggeration for the tale. I got carried away, like usual. :( We rarely exceeded 30 miles/hr for the duration... because to go faster would have been dangerous. Most of the time, we were somewhere between 20-27 mph, which is why it took us so long to reach Jarabacoa. Scott is a confident driver, and his reactions are swift, so he enjoyed negotiating those twisty roads. I know many would have been terrified on an empty road, simply because of the twists and fatal drops.

You are right, DD! It takes only one idiot driver, no matter how 'good' the road may be. I hate to know that your example came by way of a near catastrophe for your family. I remember thinking, while staring down one of those cliffs, that if we somehow went over, it was our time to go. No recourse.

But it makes my blood run cold to think that while I was joking about the possibility, you almost experienced it. It is a miracle you're here to share that story.

Hugs to all of you,
dawnwil
 

Escott

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Larry said:
Haha. So I totaled my car, it was time for a new one anyway. I wasn't drunk either. Did I get arrested? Did I even get a ticket? Of course not so there you go.

YOU can run and see what Ladybird wants. You are alot closer to her than I am :). Tell her I said "hi".

Larry
When should I expect the wire into my account to buy her the airline ticket?

You totaled your car? Gee man sorry to hear that. You should drive more carefully next time. Did you have Barbie on your mind while you were driving if you weren't drunk? You need to clear your head when you drive man and concentrate.

Your Buddy,
Escott
 

Escott

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D.DI checked the tire tracks on the side of the road. We were only a half a meter from going over the edge of the cliff. Phew! Anyways said:
Sheesh man, you sure know how to start the weekend off with a bang! BTW: FWIW: I never thought the truck was too big. I liked the darn truck. I would have accepted it as a gift if you hadn't ruined it on me! :)

Glad all is well. Car is only metal and you and the family are fine so I am a happy camper!

Kindest regards to all,
Scott