Sosua was not quite what we expected. we were told to go to Cabarete instead as it would be quieter and safer. you know, the big, bad sex trade history of Sosua and everything. our latest advice was from an Italian ex-pat in Las Galeras. he was a real gentleman and a charming host (more on that in a later post).
well, we spent two days in Cabarete, paying too much and not really enjoying the area. oh to be 18 or 20 again... then it would have have been a blast. something a little depressing about all that young flesh and energy and the assurance that i finally do look like one of their fathers rather than just a well preserved, cool older guy.
El Batey
we arrived in Sosua on a Sunday afternoon and were pleasantly surprised. nice wide streets with an obvious degree of planning. clean and well maintained. one way streets a little confusing at first but no problem. decent amount of parking available. was some of this due to the German population and their expertise in civic planning and order? after some of the cramped streets in other cities, i felt a little tension disappear and driving in Sosua was a breeze.
yes, there were brothels in full swing but everyone very friendly and not that furitive seediness you see with the sex trade in Canada. more of a "The Biggest Little Whorehouse in Texas" feel if you get what i mean. my daughter did comment that it looked like her only career path in the DR would be prositution. very funny, but an astute remark. she has not had the chance to meet with many professional, career women in the DR yet.
lots of real estate for sale but fewer empty buildings than what we noticed in other cities. great "suburb" areas just up the hill from town. good chance to live in Sosua but with some privacy and quiet. looks like you can spend a lot of money on some very large mansions if you are so inclined. wierd seeing some of the old, abandoned hotels up in the hills. decaying resorts depress me somehow.
El Choco road was my favourite. loved the pastoral areas and the cattle grazing. next time i will try driving it in a real car or truck and be able to go further.
tourist and Amhet police were friendly and i was never bothered. they were out enforcing helmet laws and busting scooter drivers going the wrong way on a one-way street. they seemd to give out alot of warnings and were good natured. so far so good...
Community
we honestly had some reservations about hooking into the expat community in Sosua. we felt that there was a real danger in getting too insulated and not picking up the language and culture. some expats just seem to be living lives transplanted from gated communites in California or Florida. i suppose there was not much difference to them as long as prices were cheaper.
it was nice to speak English after 12 days of Spanish only in other DR cities. it really felt like coming home to family. everyone was truly helpful with his/her take on the DR. of course, the source of information is as important as the information itself. there are not too many instances of one right answer.
we will be moving to the Sosua area once we settle things here in Canada. moving to a more Dominican area was our first intent but unless you can speak fluent Spanish you would be in for a rough first six months. the DR forum and the Sosua community are absolutely invaluable. so much information available if you only reach out to ask for it. things like where to buy a car, connections for a reasonably priced house rental, health insurance, schooling, dental care etc... i feel much more confident about our chance for success in the DR. when everyday items can become bewildering, the expat support will save your sanity.
Marco, the owner of Rocky's, was the hub to our wheel. he welcomed us and was considerate enough to spend a good deal of time answering our questions. an interesting character in his own right, Marco has been there and done that. i stand corrected on a previous post. he is not gruff but rather more direct. he will answer any question honestly and tell you if he is or isn't the best person to ask. he is worth his weight in gold (or ribs) and don't think about moving to Sosua without getting to know him.
don't try to play Name That Tune with Marco. when it comes to classic rock and guitar bands from the 60s and 70s you will be totally flummoxed. it took me about 2 hours to earn a free beer. i had just dropped in to check my email and my wife (at the beach with the kids) was wondering where the hell i was.
we did meet one family that had just moved to Sosua from Canada. i don't think they clicked with Rocky's and they aren't using DR1. hope all goes well for them but they are certainly making it more difficult than it needs to be.
Food
hate to admit this but we ate most of our meals at Rocky's rather than try more of the wonderful restaurants. this was because the food was excellent with an attention to detail that made everything taste as good or better than how i would make it at home. prices are very reasonable too.
proper fried potatoes and onions, done to just that perfect level of crispiness with a bit of carmelized onions... the pork ribs were truly world class and the best i have ever had in any restaurant. our first visit was on my daughter's birthday as ribs are her favourite. not too many girls get to fly to the DR on their 13th birthday to have a rib dinner. at least that was what i tried to tell her. she, as a budding young teenager, refused to be overly impressed (even though she was... a little).
breakfasts were very good with a cook that knows how to do eggs. this is rare in most restaurants. however, the real "meat" at breakfast was the constant flow of friendly expats with their warm welcomes and good advice. finally, the coffee is bottomless...be careful as it packs a punch. got a little buzzed a few times when i wasn't watching how much i drank. it was a nice change from the DR "espresso" which is excellent but goes down in just a few sips.
of course, you need to bring some patience with you. meals are prepped by table and don't come flying out of the kitchen like restaurants in Canada. try not to drink too much beer before your food arrives and relax. compared to most places in the DR, their service at Rocky's is pretty speedy. Ted, an expat Canadian, is the waiter/bartender/bouncer/host on most evenings. a good man who takes his job seriously and provides good service.
we also spent a few days at Sosua beach dining from the long line of restaurant huts. we really ejoyed the "Jungle Juiced" bar run by 2 Canadian brothers, Terry and Jamie . their food was good and they'll also serve you from neighbouring restaurants but put in all on one bill. convenient and a nice way to do business. i think the best part about their operation was how happy they were to be there. they were living the Canadian dream of warm weather and working on the beach. their enjoyment was infectious. of course, they have not been there too long yet so perhaps they may become more jaded over time. hope not! the sunset over the bay was beautiful and my full tummy and cold Presidente made it a magical experience.
also tried La Roca. we enjoyed their residents' menu and the food was a good value. beautiful building and good service.
generally, we noticed that prices were a bit high at many of the restaurants but that was to be expected in a tourist area. i am sure there were more choices and price ranges. we will explore more when we move to the Sosua area.
the main supermarket was clean, cool and well stocked. the breads and pastries available there and in other bakeries were excellent. good French and German style breads. a nice change from the soft rolls available in other cities. can't think of anything we couldn't get there.
Accommodation
we stayed at the Europa and were pleased with it. got a housekeeping unit where they actually provided cooking untesils. the rooms are well supplied and, most importantly, our corner unit had really good cross-ventilation. after so many nights with freezing cold A/C, this was a welcome break. very comfortable with just ceiling fans running. there is a brothel across the street and some accompanying noise. didn't bother us too much as i think we were getting used to it.
we would have stayed in a weekly condo rental had our plans been more definite. it would have worked out be around the same price with nicer surroundings. however, we were just travelling day to day and weren't sure how long we would be in Sosua for.
Conclusions
we highly recommend Sosua as a vacation or settling place. ultimately, it is the people you meet that make or break your trip. we were lucky to connect with so many good people in Sosua. nice to know someone is watching your back.
main dangers in Sosua: too much time eating, drinking and bullsh****ing. i don't believe in retirement so i am always saddened to see people with nothing to do. it will take a real effort to not take the lazy way out and just speak English. the beach might get boring after a few years. willing to test that out too. a bit more of a focus on security which will take alot of getting used too. real estate prices higher than more remote areas of the DR.
main advantages: more international feeling, better facilities for city of its size compared to middle-class Domincan cities. chance for kids to meet other kids speaking different languages. beach life and some exercise for all of us. would like to get a small boat and do some snorkelling. kids may take up windsurfing or something. fresh seafood!!! German breads. and, finally, a very dynamic economy with many opportunities to stay busy and engaged.
well, we spent two days in Cabarete, paying too much and not really enjoying the area. oh to be 18 or 20 again... then it would have have been a blast. something a little depressing about all that young flesh and energy and the assurance that i finally do look like one of their fathers rather than just a well preserved, cool older guy.
El Batey
we arrived in Sosua on a Sunday afternoon and were pleasantly surprised. nice wide streets with an obvious degree of planning. clean and well maintained. one way streets a little confusing at first but no problem. decent amount of parking available. was some of this due to the German population and their expertise in civic planning and order? after some of the cramped streets in other cities, i felt a little tension disappear and driving in Sosua was a breeze.
yes, there were brothels in full swing but everyone very friendly and not that furitive seediness you see with the sex trade in Canada. more of a "The Biggest Little Whorehouse in Texas" feel if you get what i mean. my daughter did comment that it looked like her only career path in the DR would be prositution. very funny, but an astute remark. she has not had the chance to meet with many professional, career women in the DR yet.
lots of real estate for sale but fewer empty buildings than what we noticed in other cities. great "suburb" areas just up the hill from town. good chance to live in Sosua but with some privacy and quiet. looks like you can spend a lot of money on some very large mansions if you are so inclined. wierd seeing some of the old, abandoned hotels up in the hills. decaying resorts depress me somehow.
El Choco road was my favourite. loved the pastoral areas and the cattle grazing. next time i will try driving it in a real car or truck and be able to go further.
tourist and Amhet police were friendly and i was never bothered. they were out enforcing helmet laws and busting scooter drivers going the wrong way on a one-way street. they seemd to give out alot of warnings and were good natured. so far so good...
Community
we honestly had some reservations about hooking into the expat community in Sosua. we felt that there was a real danger in getting too insulated and not picking up the language and culture. some expats just seem to be living lives transplanted from gated communites in California or Florida. i suppose there was not much difference to them as long as prices were cheaper.
it was nice to speak English after 12 days of Spanish only in other DR cities. it really felt like coming home to family. everyone was truly helpful with his/her take on the DR. of course, the source of information is as important as the information itself. there are not too many instances of one right answer.
we will be moving to the Sosua area once we settle things here in Canada. moving to a more Dominican area was our first intent but unless you can speak fluent Spanish you would be in for a rough first six months. the DR forum and the Sosua community are absolutely invaluable. so much information available if you only reach out to ask for it. things like where to buy a car, connections for a reasonably priced house rental, health insurance, schooling, dental care etc... i feel much more confident about our chance for success in the DR. when everyday items can become bewildering, the expat support will save your sanity.
Marco, the owner of Rocky's, was the hub to our wheel. he welcomed us and was considerate enough to spend a good deal of time answering our questions. an interesting character in his own right, Marco has been there and done that. i stand corrected on a previous post. he is not gruff but rather more direct. he will answer any question honestly and tell you if he is or isn't the best person to ask. he is worth his weight in gold (or ribs) and don't think about moving to Sosua without getting to know him.
don't try to play Name That Tune with Marco. when it comes to classic rock and guitar bands from the 60s and 70s you will be totally flummoxed. it took me about 2 hours to earn a free beer. i had just dropped in to check my email and my wife (at the beach with the kids) was wondering where the hell i was.
we did meet one family that had just moved to Sosua from Canada. i don't think they clicked with Rocky's and they aren't using DR1. hope all goes well for them but they are certainly making it more difficult than it needs to be.
Food
hate to admit this but we ate most of our meals at Rocky's rather than try more of the wonderful restaurants. this was because the food was excellent with an attention to detail that made everything taste as good or better than how i would make it at home. prices are very reasonable too.
proper fried potatoes and onions, done to just that perfect level of crispiness with a bit of carmelized onions... the pork ribs were truly world class and the best i have ever had in any restaurant. our first visit was on my daughter's birthday as ribs are her favourite. not too many girls get to fly to the DR on their 13th birthday to have a rib dinner. at least that was what i tried to tell her. she, as a budding young teenager, refused to be overly impressed (even though she was... a little).
breakfasts were very good with a cook that knows how to do eggs. this is rare in most restaurants. however, the real "meat" at breakfast was the constant flow of friendly expats with their warm welcomes and good advice. finally, the coffee is bottomless...be careful as it packs a punch. got a little buzzed a few times when i wasn't watching how much i drank. it was a nice change from the DR "espresso" which is excellent but goes down in just a few sips.
of course, you need to bring some patience with you. meals are prepped by table and don't come flying out of the kitchen like restaurants in Canada. try not to drink too much beer before your food arrives and relax. compared to most places in the DR, their service at Rocky's is pretty speedy. Ted, an expat Canadian, is the waiter/bartender/bouncer/host on most evenings. a good man who takes his job seriously and provides good service.
we also spent a few days at Sosua beach dining from the long line of restaurant huts. we really ejoyed the "Jungle Juiced" bar run by 2 Canadian brothers, Terry and Jamie . their food was good and they'll also serve you from neighbouring restaurants but put in all on one bill. convenient and a nice way to do business. i think the best part about their operation was how happy they were to be there. they were living the Canadian dream of warm weather and working on the beach. their enjoyment was infectious. of course, they have not been there too long yet so perhaps they may become more jaded over time. hope not! the sunset over the bay was beautiful and my full tummy and cold Presidente made it a magical experience.
also tried La Roca. we enjoyed their residents' menu and the food was a good value. beautiful building and good service.
generally, we noticed that prices were a bit high at many of the restaurants but that was to be expected in a tourist area. i am sure there were more choices and price ranges. we will explore more when we move to the Sosua area.
the main supermarket was clean, cool and well stocked. the breads and pastries available there and in other bakeries were excellent. good French and German style breads. a nice change from the soft rolls available in other cities. can't think of anything we couldn't get there.
Accommodation
we stayed at the Europa and were pleased with it. got a housekeeping unit where they actually provided cooking untesils. the rooms are well supplied and, most importantly, our corner unit had really good cross-ventilation. after so many nights with freezing cold A/C, this was a welcome break. very comfortable with just ceiling fans running. there is a brothel across the street and some accompanying noise. didn't bother us too much as i think we were getting used to it.
we would have stayed in a weekly condo rental had our plans been more definite. it would have worked out be around the same price with nicer surroundings. however, we were just travelling day to day and weren't sure how long we would be in Sosua for.
Conclusions
we highly recommend Sosua as a vacation or settling place. ultimately, it is the people you meet that make or break your trip. we were lucky to connect with so many good people in Sosua. nice to know someone is watching your back.
main dangers in Sosua: too much time eating, drinking and bullsh****ing. i don't believe in retirement so i am always saddened to see people with nothing to do. it will take a real effort to not take the lazy way out and just speak English. the beach might get boring after a few years. willing to test that out too. a bit more of a focus on security which will take alot of getting used too. real estate prices higher than more remote areas of the DR.
main advantages: more international feeling, better facilities for city of its size compared to middle-class Domincan cities. chance for kids to meet other kids speaking different languages. beach life and some exercise for all of us. would like to get a small boat and do some snorkelling. kids may take up windsurfing or something. fresh seafood!!! German breads. and, finally, a very dynamic economy with many opportunities to stay busy and engaged.