I only have a few more weeks here before I transfer go back to the states (and then Africa!) so I'm trying to make the most of my weekends. Last weekend I decided to go to Jarabacoa with some coworkers to see some mountains.
We caught a guagua to Santo Domingo (only 85 pesos - cheap and painless). From there we took a taxi to the Caribe Tours bus station to get tickets to Jarabacoa (150 pesos). The woman at the boleteria was very concerned that we didn't have reservations, but eventually sold us tickets. Lucky for us it appears that we bought the last seats.
About 2 and a half hours later we arrived at the Caribe office in Jarabacoa. We were immediately beset with adventure tour operators. Bad sign, though they were all friendly enough.
We arranged for a taxi at the nearby taxi window to take us to our hotel, el Gran Jimenoa. He wanted 120 pesos. It may seem silly but we wouldn't give him more than 100, which still seemed high. We later asked at the front-desk and they told us that we really shouldn't have to pay more than 80 for a ride into town.
The hotel was in a great location a few kilometers from town. It was right on a fast flowing river with lots of trees, a nice restaurant, and fairly decent rooms (hot water, mostly clean, semi-working a/c). When we called a few days earlier, were quoted 1125 pesos a night for a room with two beds, breakfast included. More on this later.
We ate dinner at the hotel restaurant, where the food was very excellent, though a bit pricey. Dinner and a drink will probably run about 500 pesos per person. At least they make strong cuba libres.
Saturday morning we got up and planned to go hiking. Based on the info in our Rough Guide, we decided to go up El Mogote, which was described as "the best dayhike in Jarabacoa" taking around three hours round-trip. We hopped in a taxi and asked him to take us to la entrada del Mogote. This one cost us 160 pesos (80 into town, 80 to el Mogote). He dropped us off right at the side road heading up to the mountain, and asked me if I knew where I was going. I told him I didn't really know, and he pointed to a pretty distant looking peak, and said "all the way" in broken English.
Undiscouraged, we set off up the road. About 10 minutes later we came upon a monastery and the trailhead. The first hour and a half on the trail wasn't too difficult, but it wasn't too scenic either. We eventually came to a flat spot with a nice view of the surrounding hills. We passed some folks coming down who said it would be another hour and a half to the saddle peak, and that it would be much steeper.
They weren't kidding - the next hour and a half was really steep. No mountaineering or anything, but it was a good hike. I'm not in great shape these days (5 years behind a computer desk and about 50lbs overweight) and I really struggled. My friends did much better, but it was still pretty strenous. Note - two bottles of water is NOT enough. I'd try to bring at least 1.5-2 liters if I were to do this again.
I stopped at the saddle peak, just beyond the cow gate, where I took this shot:
. The mist was rolling in from the mountains, and the views were fantastic. All in all it took us almost four hours to get here. A fit hiker could do it faster for sure, but there is no way to make it in three hours round-trip. My friends continued up another 20 minutes to the main peak where the watch tower is located.
The first part of the walk back down on the steep trail was brutal. Make sure you have good shoes and socks for this.
When we reached the bottom it was starting to get dark. We couldn't find any taxis or motoconchos on the road back to town. We stopped and talked to some locals and got the phone number of a taxi service and directions to a pay phone. When we found the phone, of course, it wasn't working. A family next to the pay phone decided to lend us a hand and drove us into town in their camioncita. I gave the guy 45 pesos for gas, though he didn't ask for any money. That night we ate pizza at the pizzeria personal (not sure if that is the name, but they that's what the sign said on the delivery moped). The food was pretty decent there.
After dinner they called a taxi for us, and we paid 80 pesos to get back to the hotel for a much needed rest. It was an early night.
We caught a guagua to Santo Domingo (only 85 pesos - cheap and painless). From there we took a taxi to the Caribe Tours bus station to get tickets to Jarabacoa (150 pesos). The woman at the boleteria was very concerned that we didn't have reservations, but eventually sold us tickets. Lucky for us it appears that we bought the last seats.
About 2 and a half hours later we arrived at the Caribe office in Jarabacoa. We were immediately beset with adventure tour operators. Bad sign, though they were all friendly enough.
We arranged for a taxi at the nearby taxi window to take us to our hotel, el Gran Jimenoa. He wanted 120 pesos. It may seem silly but we wouldn't give him more than 100, which still seemed high. We later asked at the front-desk and they told us that we really shouldn't have to pay more than 80 for a ride into town.
The hotel was in a great location a few kilometers from town. It was right on a fast flowing river with lots of trees, a nice restaurant, and fairly decent rooms (hot water, mostly clean, semi-working a/c). When we called a few days earlier, were quoted 1125 pesos a night for a room with two beds, breakfast included. More on this later.
We ate dinner at the hotel restaurant, where the food was very excellent, though a bit pricey. Dinner and a drink will probably run about 500 pesos per person. At least they make strong cuba libres.
Saturday morning we got up and planned to go hiking. Based on the info in our Rough Guide, we decided to go up El Mogote, which was described as "the best dayhike in Jarabacoa" taking around three hours round-trip. We hopped in a taxi and asked him to take us to la entrada del Mogote. This one cost us 160 pesos (80 into town, 80 to el Mogote). He dropped us off right at the side road heading up to the mountain, and asked me if I knew where I was going. I told him I didn't really know, and he pointed to a pretty distant looking peak, and said "all the way" in broken English.
Undiscouraged, we set off up the road. About 10 minutes later we came upon a monastery and the trailhead. The first hour and a half on the trail wasn't too difficult, but it wasn't too scenic either. We eventually came to a flat spot with a nice view of the surrounding hills. We passed some folks coming down who said it would be another hour and a half to the saddle peak, and that it would be much steeper.
They weren't kidding - the next hour and a half was really steep. No mountaineering or anything, but it was a good hike. I'm not in great shape these days (5 years behind a computer desk and about 50lbs overweight) and I really struggled. My friends did much better, but it was still pretty strenous. Note - two bottles of water is NOT enough. I'd try to bring at least 1.5-2 liters if I were to do this again.
I stopped at the saddle peak, just beyond the cow gate, where I took this shot:
The first part of the walk back down on the steep trail was brutal. Make sure you have good shoes and socks for this.
When we reached the bottom it was starting to get dark. We couldn't find any taxis or motoconchos on the road back to town. We stopped and talked to some locals and got the phone number of a taxi service and directions to a pay phone. When we found the phone, of course, it wasn't working. A family next to the pay phone decided to lend us a hand and drove us into town in their camioncita. I gave the guy 45 pesos for gas, though he didn't ask for any money. That night we ate pizza at the pizzeria personal (not sure if that is the name, but they that's what the sign said on the delivery moped). The food was pretty decent there.
After dinner they called a taxi for us, and we paid 80 pesos to get back to the hotel for a much needed rest. It was an early night.
