Dominican trip report - December 2007

Thanks for all help received on this fantastic forum, if only there were others like it for Cuba, Jamaica etc...

Here?s some trip notes I?ve been making since my arrival at the end of November in lieu of a written diary. Hope they?re of use to people. Please excuse the typos and grammatical errors, I blame it all on the different keyboards I?ve been using...

The DR immigration was relatively painless, had to pay 10USD for tourist card before having my passport stamped and collecting my bags for the terminal. The sleepy chap at the tourist office yelled out for a map and one came floating down on my head from his colleague on the 2nd floor - welcome to the Dominican Republic!

Got hailed by a cab driver before I`d left the airport and costs 30USD to get to Hotel Freeman where I`d booked 3 nights before I`d left (the internet is a very useful thing sometimes). His name was Ramon and a fanatical baseball fan (as are many DR locals) - not happy that his local Santo Domingo team (Los Escogidos - in red) lost to Lycee team of SD (Blue). You can tell people`s affilliation by the colour of the four flags they fly from each corner of their car.

Checked into Hotel Freeman, 35US a night for clean, spacious double room with en-suite, aircon and cable TV. Although room 10 at the back was situated next to a raucous night club and being Friday night, things didn`t settle until late. Not that it mattered too much, spent the early evening walking along the adjoining Calle Los Dames up to the square, where many locals were congregating next to the Coca Cola Xmas tree. Stopped by the Basilica, where the great and the good of DR`s fight for independence from Spain are interred or commemorated, as well as the eternal flame, guarded by 2 stern looking soldiers in ceremonial garb.

There were beautiful colours as sun set over Fortaleza Ozama and the river of the same name. Very evocative, and enjoyable to be on dry land at last for a sunset!

Costs 90USD plus 145DOP
9USD duty free booze Puerto Rico, airport
Santo Domingo
10 USD tourist card
30USD taxi from airport into town
31USD room balance
145DOP for food, water

Sat 1 Dec
Hot day spent exploring the historic zona colonial, the oldest colonial area in the Americas. Got a bit lost and ended up at the municipal market, helped along with fresh fruit and coffee sold by street vendors. Booked for my return stay in Santo Domingo with Hotel La Canae and returned via the malecon, waterfront, where all the large hotels, casinos are situated. Lovely walk and enjoyed the vibe of SD, even if it was very dirty and dilapidated, not much has happened since the 500 year anniversary of Columbus`s discovery in 1992.

Escaped the heat by visiting the Fortaleza Ozama and its historic tower in the morning, and then Museo Alcazar de Colon on Plaze de la Hispanidad in the p.m. Also stopped at informative larimar and amber museums located in and above jewellery shops. There were further concerts at the Plaza Espa?a in the evening, when people emerge from their midday slumbers and party and promenade in this large open space - lots of restaurants in the vicinity and an enjoyable place to relax and enjoy Saturday night in SD. The rock band playing next door seemed to finish at midnight which was a slight improvement on the previous night!

Costs - 1425DOP
31USD balance on room at Hotel Freeman
1000 DOP deposit on room at Hotel Canae (never used since they didn`t honour my paid reservation when I got back on New Years Eve)
30DOP Fort Ozama
60DOP Alcazor Colon
35DOP internet
300DOP dinner

Sunday 2 December
Another hot and humid day, although I narrowly escaped a tremendous thunderstom on my early morning walk around the deserted streets - loads of rubbish from the previous night`s carousing, and the rain probably helped clean some of the dirtier areas - no public toilets in SD, so glad hotels and restaurants and museums are in relative abundance!

Walked across Rio Ozama to Faro A Colon, half a billion dollar white elephant built to house Christopher COlumbus`s bones (they`re also in Seville and Madrid) back in 1992. Housed 48 museums that didn`t looked like they`d been maintained since the day the building was inaugurated - the exceptions being Taiwan, Japan and Korean. Still an interesting place to ramble around, and assisted by relatively informative guide. The lighthouse is supposed to be lit by 157 lights at night, but causes blackouts if used!

Stopped at Museo de las Casas Reales in the p.m. - a real highlight - great historical displays and notes and exhibits on the role of the Spanish Colonists and explorers, both in the DR and further afield. MOst of the conquistadors of Central and SOuth America, as well as the Caribbean, spend some time in and around SD and the DR. Lovely evening reading my guide books on the hotel balcony, as the darkness settled, and then back to the Plaza Hispania for another Christmas concert of Merengue and Father Christmas around the brightly lit Coca Cola Xmas tree.

Costs - 645DOP plus USD31
31USD balance on room
35DOP internet
300DOP lunch
60DOP food
100DOP entry to Faro A Colon
100DOP guide for Faro A Colon
50DOP for Casa Reales

Monday 3 December
I was planning to leave SD, but still not quite sure what my plans are. So booked another night in Hotel Freeman, and then went wandering around the Zona Colonia again. Stopped at various historic houses, many converted inside whilst their exteriors are peeling from the sunshine. Lovely gardens in the Dominican convent, and lots of MP guarding the Alter de la Patria near the Conde gate and gardens. Many remains of ancient buildings and the original city walls remain, although not as grandiose as at Old San Juan.

Spent most of day reading my guide books, and writing up notes on internet about my past month`s travels - I need to keep a more regular diary of what I did when cruising, just very difficult as very apathetic to doing anything that requires effort on them!

Costs - 1475DOP
90DOP internet
75DOP shopping
1150DOP room at Hotel Freeman
160DOP lunch

Dominican trip report - December 2008 Part 2

4 December
Walk around SD in a.m. Visit Santa Barbara church and fort before last amble along Calle de los Dames. Left Hotel Freeman at 11 and walked to 2nd class bus stn for 11.30 bus to La Romana, arriving there 1.30. Spent half an hour at Bomana cultural centre but no longer hold Tuesday and Sunday shows. Circumnavigated plaza before heading to obelisk and guagua stop for Bayahibe, arriving there around 4, where met William )tout) who took me Cabanas Mauna - basic but friendly, clean and quiet. GOod bed with cold water and fan. Quiet and secure. Place to wash clothes.

Investigated tours but everything booked, met Angelica and Christina, 2 Dutch sisters, and met them for dinner at 7.30, having watched the sunset at the beach and negotiated a deal of USD70 for day trip to Saona using sail boat. However A&C only wanted to do half day.

Costs -1770DOP
50DOM breakfast
130DOM 2nd class bus fare to La Romana
50DOM gua gua fare to Bayahibe
600DOM room at Cabanas Mauna
20DOM tip for tout
700DOM dinner
90DOM shopping (water, bread and sardines)
130DOM 2 bottles of beer

5 December
Wandered up to resort at dawn on northern end of beach, glorious colours and lots of fish near jetty. Fisherman using net captured a number of small fry.

Met A&C at 8.30 near tourist boat office, all very expensive since gasoline prices have soard. Ended up finding tout - guide and negotiating to pay 3500DOM for trip to Piscina Natural - poor value compared to day trips offered (But all reserved by resorts at Bavaro).

Left with Elid at around 10.10 and took 30 mins to arrive at Piscina Natural - 15 other boats already there - not very pleasant and nothing to see - a desert. Spent half an hour there and then more time snorkelling over denuded reefs, returning to Bayahibe harbour at 1 where the best coral was to be found. Plenty of fish, but next time, I`ll just hire a mask for 100 pesos for the day!

Returned to Cabanas Mauna at lunch to wash my clothes and spent rest of day reading Grave Tattoo thriller, before heading to peninsula to watch sunset and visit church and Taino excavation. Columbus anchored in bay on his 2nd expedition. Back to supermarket or bar for very festive evening with A/C.

Costs - 2110 DOP
50DOM breakfast
600DOM room
1100DOM excursion
100DOM mask hire
180DOM 3 bottles of beer
60DOM dinner
20DOM water

6 December
Up at 7 and wandered around Bayahibe town - loads iof luxury town houses being built away from the water and don`t know who would want to settle in them. Way overpriced.

Returned to Cabanas Mauna for breakfast - coffee, and then packed bags )apart from sandals that I left behind!) and caught guagua to junction of highway, to pick up a bus shortly afterwards to Higuey. Arrived at Higuey shortly after 10, and booked into Hotel Casa Blanca, opposite Alta Gracia basilica, shrine for patron saint of DR: HIguey dusty, dirty city with little charm and far too much traffic, but good base to explore the province.

Caught guagua from southern part of Higuey to San Rafael del Yuma, arriving there around 11.30. Walked to Casa Juan Ponce, founder of cities in PR and Florida but died trying to find the fountain of youth. Dusty, hot walk but interesting renovated fortified stone building with some historic artefacts and English text on the history of the region.

Wandered back to San Rafael around 1 for lunch at friendly comedor before heading back to Higuey, Checked into hotel to find no water, and so took off to find bus station for Bavaro transport )with difficulty!). Eventually located them at 2.30 and caught 2.45 bus, which took 2 hours to pass by the various resorts - very grandiose entrances, but didn`t get even a glimpse of the sea from the route we took. Got dropped at Bavaro bus station for return journey at dusk to Higuey, and now spending evening internetting and organising my trip for tomorrow.

Costs - 1057DOP
50DOM breakfast
25DOM gua gua to highway junction
50DOP bus to Higuey
500DOP accommodation at Casa Blance, cold water, fan with TV and ensuite.
60DOP gua gua to San Rafael
30DOP entry fee at Casa Juan Ponce
80DOP lunch at San Rafael
50DOP gua gua back to HIguey
80DOP bus to Bavaro
90DOP bus back to Higuey
12DOP phone call to Hotel Paraiso Cano Honda
30DOP internet

7 December
Wandered around Higuey before getting to guagua stop at 7.30 for hours journey west to El Cibey, driver dropping me at gua gua terminal. 5 minutes later I was on my way to Hato Mayor in half an hour, and then a 15 minute stop to shop and get some breakfast, before taking a very rutted and potholed road north to Sabana de la Mar, arriving there just before 11 (could have caught the boat over).

But had other plans and enjoyed lunch before taking motociclo at 12 to Eco lodge Cano Hondo, a tranquil, empty place on the escarpment above PN Los Haitses. No one else around to do excursions, and lodge asked for 1700DOP for 2 hour tour, local guide said 1000DOP, but then didn't show up at 7 the next morning! Relaxing place to take inner tubes around the vairous pools within the lodge. Tried unsuccessfully to find others to take tour of park, and instead went for a very muddy walk through cultivated valley adjoining the park. Lots of rain and fairly humid, seems very pretty but inaccessible for independent traveller.

Pleasant evening reading and enjoying the jungle noises. Resort being expanded rapidly but don't how they pay for it since seemed quite desolate. Lovely spacious rooms with waterfalls lit up just below my window.

Costs - 2393DOP
20DOP breakfast
20DOP motocycle to guagua stop
75DOP bus to El Ceiba Seboy
40DOP gua gua to Hato Mayor
25DOP shopping (tuna)
5DOP juice
100DOP gua gua to Sabana del Mar
28DOP shopping (Bread)
80DOP lunch
100DOP motociclo to El Paraiso Cano Hondo
1600DOP room at Cano Hondo ecotourist hotel, ensuite and fan large room, pools and waterfalls, and breakfast included, expensive food and drink otherwise - lovely but deserted.
300DOP dinner and juice at Cano Hondo restaurant

8 December
Up at 6.45 to walk to park entrance and boat wharf to meet Jose my supposed guide, who never showed! Very DR! Bitten alive and retreated back to Cano Hondo for filling breakfast and moseyed around the pools and waterfalls for the rest of the morning. My motociclo driver also didn't turn up, so got lift back to Sabana del Mar at 1 for boat over to Samana

Ate conchi which tasted foul, more like tripe than seafood! Grasping lady didn't make for enjoyable experience, unlike moderately rough crossing of Bahia Samana, on top deck along with a throng of locals, difficult to understand them. Didn't rain and arrived in Samana around 4.15, after about 5 trips from wharf to boat to embark all the passengers and goods.

Wandered around Samana for the rest of the evening, squalls emerged every now and again. Beautiful light as the sunset, fairly desultory kind of place, with amazing amount of noise blasting from malecon restaurant speakers. Returned to Hotel Docia to get bitten alive by bugs, but lovely views from top floor balcony, enjoyable palce to knock back a couple of beers and watch the night fall.

Costs - 1350DOP
50DOP juice
100DOP motociclo to Sabana de la Mar
130DOP conchi meal at Sabana de la Mar
140DOP boat over to Samana
600DOP night at Hotel Docia, clean, ensuite with TV, lovely balcony, but no mossie screens
140DOP beer
150DOP shopping (repellent)
40DOP empanadas

9 December
Wandered up to luxury hotel on edge of Samana town, fruitlessly searching for hte whale museum, (Open in March?) Spent morning getting packed and recovering from being bitten alive last night by bugs. NOt very awake when wandered to market and caught camion at 11 up to El Limon, enjoyable ride along good paved road through DR countryside. Neatly got transferred to another truck as we arrived in El Limon, and was in Las Terrenas by midday, not finding Hotel Papagayo since it had been knocked down - the whole place is a building site, with muddy dusty roads and loads of ATVs and motorciclos, not making it a very rustic getaway!

Checked into friendly Casa Robinson and then wandered around the main street, most shops had closed on Sunday, but was able to procure supplies from nearby minimarket. Cooked pasta for lunch, before heading back into town to visit Galleras, or cock fighting ring at 3. Took a while for roosters to be selected to fight each other, quite a process at weigh in and then a long time to bind their feet with the spikes. The fights were not too bloody, although galling when the bird was clearly in pain and the fight continued. The most enjoyable part was the crowd reaction and huge amount of betting by the owners and their supporters of the relevant birds. Stayed until 6 before returning through the rain squalls for another night of home cooking! Lovely place to crash, well tended grounds and very quiet.

Costs - 2265DOP
250DOP sandals
25DOP shopping
50DOP camion to El Limon
50DOP camion to Las Terrenas
1000DOP room at Casa Robinson, upstairs ensuite room with fan and kitchenette. Friendly and close to beach, great views of ocean and quiet with balcony
700DOP shopping at mini market
50DOP cock fighting entrance
140DOP beer Presidente Grande

10 December
Wandered along Las Terrenas beach at dawn towards Playa Bonita for an hour or so, only to face barbed wire and closed paths to these beaches. So much for rights of way in the DR!

Returned frustrated by rain and wintry conditions to Casa Robinson at 10, but braved elements at 11.30 to head to El Limon and checked into Sinta for excursion. Met Nathan my guide a little after midday, and Semillon my fairly tranquil horse, although I much preferred when it walked rather than trotted or galloped! Took a detour from the main road from El Limon after a km, and after crossing river 3 times, headed up a steep, muddy path, towards plateau and good views of Playa MOron and Limon waterfalls, 65m high. Good time to go at 12 since the tours were returning as I was heading up, and had the place to myself. Delightful spot for a swim and explore the cataracts. Returned after half an hour to LImon, arriving there around 2.45 (hours journey). OK excursion and nice meal, before heading back to Las Terrenas, where spent the rest of the p.m. wandering along the eastward beaches, fairly rough surf prevented any swimming though.

Stormy night meant sleeping was difficult, read shared book from Casas library to pass the time.

Costs - 1800DOP
1000DOP room at Casa Robinson
50DOP camion to El Limon
700DOP excursion to Limon waterfalls with Sinta
50DOP camion back to Las Terrenas

11 December
Very windy night, courtesy of sub tropical storm Olga (cat 3). Very blustery and rainy, cold day. After breakfast, headed to Playa Bonita, not looking very frienly, only a couple of brave surfers braving the choppy waves. Red flag conditions for swimming, or not as the case may be. Spent morning doding showers and traffic as walked along Playa Bonita to Playa Coson and back into Las Terrenas, now internetting at lunch time, before returning to hotel for rest of day to relax, read and avoid the weather! Can't say I'm impressed so far with Samana peninsula.

Costs - 1665DOP
1000DOP room at Casa Robinson,
240DOP beer Brahma
347DOP shopping at supermarket
40DOP internet hour
78DOP water

12 December
still squalls and rain showers, although the storm seems to have passed, 11 people died in DR, when river broke its bank in north of country. Shows the power of nature. Las Terrenas sozzled and muddy, not a great beach holiday but better than some people's experience, and glad wasn't caught up in the middle of it (bypassed the north coast of DR).

Wandered along beach in morning, but seas still quite rough so didn`t venture in. Spent 3 hours at internet cafe before returning to Casa Robinson to read more chick lit books, getting bored out of my head with them! Some were OK but most were appalling. Watched dusk settle in amongst the clouds, haven't seem much sunshine since I've been on Samana.

Costs - 1090DOP
1000 room at Casa Robinson
90 for 3 hours internet (slow connection)
Cooked all my meals on gas stove, power came back on at 2a.m. so read for a couple of hours, room was flooded with water. Torrential rain.

13 December
Went for beach walk at dawn for a couple of hours (6.45) amazed at debris and rubbish on beach, grotty place is LT. Spent morning packing reading and eating remainder of food, before taking moto ciclo at 11.45 for last muddy trip down to southerly edge of LT to catch gua gua to Sanchez, spectacular views of northern coast, albeit briefly. Then down through banana plantations to Sanchez and alighted at gua gua terminal for Nagua, and straight away in rickety minivan along coast line in parts. Grey seas still looked threatening. Again changed at 2 for another much more modern gua gua to Rio San Juan, arriving there at 3 and checking into Hotel Bahia Blanca, showing its age but owners very friendly, at 3.30. Found out that tourst to Gri Gri lagoon deferred until Monday, since the recent storm had stirred up the mud and so visibility was next to nothing. Now moseying around RSJ and internetting for an hour before finding a place to eat and watch the sunset.

Electricity didn?t come on until after dusk and went for wander around town to read papers about the recent destruction caused by Olga storm. Returned to stargaze from Hotel terrace, beautiful night, the lights on the coast twinkling like the stars above. Restful night listening to the lapping ocean just yards away.

Costs - 988DOP
30DOP motociclo to guagua stop for Sanchez
50DOP gua gua to Sanchez, 50 mins at midday
60DOP gua gua to Nagua 70 mins from 12.55
80DOP gua gua to Rio San Juan 60 mins from 1.55
500DOP room T1 at Hotel Bahia Blanca, run by friendly French elderly couple - great setting on coast, with basic room with fan and clean ensuite. Great value
40DOP internet
80DOP beer
100DOP dinner patelittos in town
48DOP 2 AA batteries

Dominican trip report - December 2008 Part 3

14 December
Woke at dawn and after quick shower and ablutions, caught gua gua to Playa Grande, about 9km east of Rio San Juan. Wandered along beautiful beach to golf course on escarpment above. Included a resort and grounds and fairways were immaculate, apart from the dog poo left by my companions...

Returned to Playa Grande for a swim and then headed to Playa Preciosa, rockier and more windswept, but beautiful and had the place to myself. Spent the morning there, dodging showers, before returning to Playa Grande for another swim, and then walking back to Rio San Juan, arriving there at midday, in time for al fresco meal in the rain, as well as to renew another night at Hotel Bahia Blanca, lovely spot and enjoy RSJ, although had to change a 2000DOM note since no business seemed to have change!


Costs - 1180DOP
30DOP gua gua to Playa Grande
150DOP lunch in plaza
500DOP room at Hotel Bahia Blanca
150DOP internet
240DOP beer
30DOP postcards
35DOP shopping
45DOP more shopping

15 December
Rained heavily during night but lovely to wake to lapping of waves just outside room. Rose at 7.30 and after a quick breakfast, headed to nearby Playa Cayeta, lovely small cove, lined with white painted stone heads, bizarre! Wandered back to Bahia Blanca Hotel at 9, to laze on the terrace for an hour before the rains arrived, and now internetting before a bite to eat and then to head over to Sosua after packing (hopefully between rain showers!)
Got 12.45 gua gua from RSJ, which took 1.5 hours passing through cattle country, and Gaspar Hernandez and Cabarete, to sleazy beach town of Sosua. Headed to Casa Valeria, but the owners had changed, the reason my emails had not been responded to, and everywhere was full. Couldn`t find Casa Colibri, that friendly new German owners tried to arrange for me, so took gua gua to PP to Victoriana Hotel, then headed to Malecon waterfront and the historic city centre. Everything was closing in the late p.m. and after a brief chicken dinner watching the sunset, headed back to my room.

Costs - 882DOP
47DOP milk
30DOP internet
10DOP biscuit
60DOP gua gua from RSJ to Sosua
50DOP gua gua from Sosua to Puerta Plata
400DOP for room at Victoriana Hotel, friendly place with cable TV and hot water, but checking in money was painful!
80DOP beer
155DOP chicken dinner
50DOP shopping

16 December
Woke at dawn (6.30) and reasonable sleep despite racket of motociclos during night. Beautiful blue sky day, first in a couple of weeks, so wandered to San Felipe fort where locals were finishing partying with loud music pumping from their car speakers. Walked along the malecon promenade, lots of building work going on, and a pleasant shady walk to Long Beach, then a return for a much needed breakfast at the town square heladaria, lots of building work ongoing in the town centre at the minute, and not a great place for a pedestrian with fast cars and narrow streets!

Spent the morning watching LIverpool lose to Man U in the Premiership, and AC Milan beat Boca Juniors 4-2 in the Club supercup in Yokohama, Japan - recall watching Liverpool lose to Sao Paolo when I was touring Brasil a couple of years ago.

Escaping the scorching heat for half an hour, before heading to Fort San Felipe, and the teleferico, if it`s working. Enjoy PP, a dirty, derelict run down atmosphere, but friendly locals. Spent an hour wandering San Felipe fort, before taking ride to teleferico station for 10minute ride up to 779m high Isabela mountain, with great views of the coastline and PP below, Costamber to the west, and Sosua to the east. Also good views of the Septrionale hills to the south of the coast, very fertile and good agricultural land.

Spent an hour on the pleasantly sunny and wind free summit of Isabla, foliage and vegetation far different to the coast below. Enjoyed a beer in the late p.m. sunshine until catching the 5p.m. funicular back to PP, and wandered back into town to the hotel around 6. After a wash and change, wandered along the Malecon promenade, it looked like most locals also had the same idea and a lovely spot to watch the sunset and see how locals finish off the weekend.

Costs - 1280DOP
400DOP for room at Victorian Hotel
145DOP breakfast - desayuno deportivo
20DOP half hour internet
40DOP entry fee to San Felipe fort
40DOP mototaxi to teleferico station
200DOP teleferico to Mt Isabela NP
100DOP beer at top of Mt Isabela NP
135DOP beers on Malecon
100DOP hotdogs on Malecon

17 December
Woke at dawn, and after a quick breakfast, headed to Javilla bus terminal where caught 8a.m. bus to Imbert, a 20 min ride, then 5 mins later caught gua gua to Luperon (45 mins, 45DOM), from where it was a 20 min motociclo ride (100DOM) to La Isabela. Spent a couple of hours at the site and its museums, lovely spot and vista, before walking 10 mins to Church of the Americas for another beautiful view of the bay. Then headed just out of town to El Castillo del Pirata, run by friendly French couple Georges and Michele 1 809 235 6652, have built a restaurant with 4 rooms (1400DOM a night for a couple with breakfast, or 1000DOM without), great place for lunch.
Arranged with motociclo driver to pick me up for return trip to Luperon, and from there, caught public taxis (same prices as getting there) back to Puerto Plata by 2. A great half day trip, and very easy to do with basic Spanish. Then wandered around the historic city centre of PP, visiting both Amber museums, the cheaper one was better and interesting exhibits about coffee, rum, tobacco that they were selling, as well as larimar.

Wrote up some postcards in the late pm. and unfriendly Irish tavern, before returning to Victoriana Hotel for a wash and change and now heading for some dinner, after spending an hour here writing up my travels of today.

Costs - 1335DOP
35DOP Javilla bus to Imbert
45DOP guagua to Luperon
10DOP water
5DOP hard boiled egg, Luperon
100DOP motociclo from Luperon to La Isabela
50DOP entry fee to La Isabela historic site
80DOP beer at El Castillo del Pirata
125DOP return trip by mototaxi to Luperon from La Isabela
45DOP private taxi from Luperon to Imbert
30DOP private taxi from Imbert to PUerto Plata
100DOP meal at Chinese retaurant
25DOP fruit juice at Chinese restaurant
90DOP beer
40DOP internet
50DOP Amber museum entry
25DOP entry to other Amber museum
60DOP stamps for postcards
400DOP room at Victoria hotel
20DOP food

18 December
Didn't sleep so well during the night, but watched music videos til dawn, and then slumbered until 7.30, whereupon headed off to Javilla Tours bus terminal for express bus to Santiago, took 1.5 hours and arrived in dusty, busy city at 9.25. Wandered the streets to find the Fort San Luis and its cultural centre still closed, as was the main city centre cultural area. The Folklorico museum was open however, and had an informative chat with the son of the founder of the musuem, specialising in the costumes and masks used in the celebrated Carneval. Then wandered to Trujillo's white elephant, the Monument to the 37 heroes, loads of gilded statues lined the hill and ostentatious tower, but the best part was the superb views of Santiago, as well as the surrounding hillside (Ceibao).

Then walked in the midday sun to Centro Leon Jiminez, a modern arts museum and concert hall, with tobacco factory (the source of the funds to build the centre) in its grounds. Artwork was so so, but there was an interesting exhibit on DR identity, as well as more interesting Taino artefacts, the modern art stuff was rubbish.

Enjoyed very tasty wrap for lunch at the Centre's cafe, before heading back into Santiago town centre, to be kindly collected by Jawalla Tour bus back to terminal, where changed for express bus back to Puerto Plata, arriving in mid p.m.

Spent rest of day watching Arsenal beat Blackburn in the Carling Cup qf, as well as internetting, and working out my next steps around DR. Another beautiful day.

Costs - 1198DOM
400DOM room at Victoriano Hotel
15DOM pastellito chicken breakfast
100DOM express bus from Puerto Plata to Santiago
20DOM tostado sandwich
50DOM donation to folklorico museum
230DOM lunch
10DOM local bus back to Santiago city centre
100DOM bus back to Puerto Plata
40DOM internet
80DOM beer
145DOM shopping
8DOM water (2 plastic bags)

19 December
Got up relatively early at dawn (7.30 here in dr) and went for a last walk along the Malecon in the early morning sunshine, before returning to a cafe for breakfast. After collecting my money belt from the friendly manager of the Victoriano hotel, caught a motociclo at9.30 for a public taxi down to Naverette. After an enjoyable smooth 40 min ride, alighted at roundabout on hwy to Monte Cristi and was soon westbound on Express Line bus, arriving in Monte Cristi around midday, after a slightly confusing change of bus halfway through the trip.

Arranged hotel for weekend in Jarabacoa, and then wandered the streets of MOnte Cristi, some lovely falling down wooden Victorian buildings, ended up Restaurant Bistrot where chatted to friendly French owner Irwin, and arranged for excursion the following day. Then walked km north to coast, past the shacks and salt pans with glorious views of El Torre mountain. Arranged 3 nights accomm at luxurious Montechico hotel, only to find no light or water until 6.30 (sunset). Need to improve my Spanish significantly. Started off on the road north to El TOrre, passing the yacht club, and stopping in HOstal San Francisco for some much needed refreshments around 3.30. THe access to the summit of El Torre was closed since the wooden stairs were in bad condition, but was still able to climb via stations of the cross, to its adjoining hillock, with superb views of the bay, countryside, and even a cruise ship! Wandered down to the thankfully shaded surf beach, fantastic paved road by DR standards, a politician must own one of the nearby beach houses!

Returned at dusk back to my hotel to watch the stars emerge as the wonderful crimson colours of the sunset receded over the horizon. Watched TV and dozed intermittently. Glad to have a shower and power around 7 at last!

Costs 1690DOP
10DOP paper
145DOP breakfast
30DOP motociclo to taxi rank
80DOP shared taxi from PP to Navarette
130DOP express line bus from Navarette to Monte Cristi
850DOP for aircon room with cold water and cable TV on 3rd flr of Montechito Hotel, owner had recently been done for smuggling 27kg of cocaine...
250DOP lunch at Chic Hotel
7DOP phone call to HOtel Las Brisas
40DOP water at Hostal San Francisco
70DOP meal at Cafe Orqueida
78DOP for water, bread

20 December
Slept intermittently, not a great fan of aircon since have to get up regularly to switch it on - off ' much easier to prepare the settings of a fan and leave it on for the duration.

Rose at 7.30 and there was water this morning for a wash, after a quick breakfast, met Irwin and ALex Morse, and his girlfriend Michelle. ALex was a missionary from Indianapolis working with the HIV infected prostitutes and orphans in Boca Chica, and hadn?t realised 7 tourists had been killed there in the past 2 months! Mainly by prostitutes or pimps after their cash!

Had to do some shopping for bread and tuna since the picnic noted by Irwin yesterday was not included in the price. Eventually left for the yacht marina just north of my hotel around 9.15 where met friendly boat captain Alenio? We set off through the mangroves to a platform where we spotted a puffer fish wallowing around the piscina natural. After 10 m ins there, headed out of the mangroves into the open ocean, and anchored a couple of miles off the point of El Torre, to snorkel around a fairly degraded coral reef. Michelle hadn?t snorkelled before so only spent around 20 mins there, before heading to Isla Catalina, just off the point of El Torre, where we spent the next 4 hours.

Wandered through the centre of the island with its old salt pans (the area is now a protected NP) and then up towards a decrepit fallen down lighthouse. ALex and Michelle didn?t have adequate footwear, which allowed me to explore the northern coast of the island and a lovely secluded beach for the next hour or so. After getting lost a couple of times, found the path back to the landing point and chatted to A(M for the next couple of hours, until Alenio came to pick us up at 3, and from where IRwin drove me back to hotel around 4 ' a nice day, spotted another boat of tourists fishing but that was it as far as foreigners were concerned.
Met up with ALex / MIchelle around 7.30 for dinner in the only restaurant ' tried the tasty lambi (conch) with salad and tostones, before returning to my hotel to watch Die Hard in Spanish, relatively easy to follow since I?d seen it so many times and knew a lot of the dialogue, hard to believe it?s 20 years old!

Costs ' 1418DOP plus USD50
800DOP for aircon room in Montechito Hotel
78DOP shopping
210DOP beers
330DOP dinner with ALex and Michelle at nearby restaurant
USD50 for snorkelling excursion

21 December
Didn?t sleep at all well, had a thudding headache and most likely a product of dehydration when not taking on enough liquids yesterday. Rose at dawn and stumbled down to bus terminal around 8?sh, having to wait the longest so far in DR for an availble bus. Eventually shoved onto a cramped minibus and stood all the way for the 40 min journey to Dajabon, on the Haitian border. Not in the best of spirits or moods, and the Friday market did little to alleviate any sense of curiousity, a fairly mundane uninspiring market ' Haitian ladies lying on the pavement alongside bundles of clothes and fluffy toys.

ONly lingered at the market for 45 minutes before returning to Monte Cristi at 10.30 and spending the rest of the morning internetting and writing up my trip notes ' think I?ll spend the rest of the day on the beach (in the shade of the palm trees). And drink copious amounts of water!

Spent a couple of hours checking my account and writing up my trip notes so far, beats hand writing in a diary. Returned to Montechico for a swim in the late p.m. after a lunch at one of the local comedors. Then headed to Restaurant Le Bristot to meet Irwin the French owner, and catch up with Alex Morse and Michelle, for an entertaining evening, conversing mostly in Spanish about DR and Haiti with Irwin, who drove us all back to our hotels around 11. Kept up by the energetic couple next door for quite a while!

Costs - 1825DOP
850DOP for aircon room in Montechito Hotel
40DOP bus to Dajabon
40DOP bus back to Montecristi
15DOP icy pole
90DOP internet
620DOP meal
45DOP batida
110DOP plato del dia
15DOP newspaper

Dominican trip report - December 2008 Part 4

22 December
Woke at dawn and went for a thwarted mosquito riddled walk west along the coast, the road having been cut by deep flowing channels from the recent rains, which stopped any further explorations. Returned to pack (which took an hour) before leaving for the gua gua stop. Passed by the Caribe bus station, where I was hailed by Alex and Michelle who were returning to Boca Chica via Santo Domingo as well. So breakfasted with them, before catching the 10.45 bus to Santiago, Alex trying to teach me the scheduling of AMerican football, I thought Aussie rules was complicated!

Got into Santiago just before 1, and booke another Caribe tour bus at 1.25 to La Vega, arriving there at 2.30, most of the journey spent navigating through Santiago traffic! Then caught a motociclo to Cinco Patios for the gua gua terminal for Jarabacoa, incurring the wrath of the driver by muddying his new minivan! Arrived at Jarabacoa at 3.30, and found HOtel Brisas del Yaque without any trouble, although they didn?t have any reservation for me, not that it mattered terribly! Plenty of room at the inn!

Went for a wander around the compact but traffic clogged streets of Jarabacoa, and did some shopping, before returning to the hotel and enjoying sunset and sundowners from the balcony whilst watching movies on cable TV, nothing terribly memorable.

Costs - 2015DOP
120DOP Caribe bus from Monte Cristi to Santiago
125DOP drinks
60DOP Caribe bus 1.25p.m. from Santiago to La Vega
50DOP motoconcho
50DOP guagua to Jarabacoa
1000DOP for room in HOtel Brisas del Yaque, cable TV, hot water and fridge, great view and quiet
90DOP whiskey
540DOP shopping ' water and food

23 December
Woke at dawn and watched fog lift from mountains whilst tuned into ESPN sports on the TV. Eventually left my hotel room at 9.30 and caught motociclo with friendly Manuel Antonio as my guide to Salta Jimenoa 1, a beautifully situated waterfall in the hills above Jarabacoa. Met a friendly couple from Vermont to swap travel info, I was the first tourist they?d met since travelling in the DR via th southwest, re-inforces my theory that tourists are only located in Santo Domingo, Punta Cana, Samana Penisula and Cabarete.

Spent an enjoyable couple of hours exploring the surrounds of Jaribacoa, a relatively straightforward hike to the higher Jimenoa falls, with informative display boards in Spanish, English, French and German. Germany had sponsored the sustainable development of the area and protected its watershed and forested areas.

Took a very fast ride across town to visit the lower falls, however the suspension bridges had been destroyed by the recent hurricanes, and despite our best efforts, had to leave those falls for another day. Instead, Manuel took me to the Confluence of the RIo Yacque and Jimenoa, before returning me to my hotel, where I watched Spanish football for the rest of the p.m., read about Costa Rica, and watched the sunset. Now at the internet cafe before heading back through town through the throngs starting to celebrate Buenos Noches, Christmas Eve, even bigger than Xmas here in the DR.


Costs - 1711DOP
1000DOP Hotel Brisas del Yaque
500DOP guide Manuel Antonio and motociclo to visit waterfalls and Confluencia
90DOP whiskey
81DOP shopping
40DOP internet


24 December
Woke late after enjoying a night taking in the music and dancing of Central Park in Jarabacoa, getting back around 11, but then didn?t wake up until 8. Clouds were overhead and it was far colder than yesterday.

Tourist office closed and everyone doing their last minute shopping. Staying in Jarabacoa for another day, not doing a great deal - but a very friendly place to spend Xmas. Tried to ring home but no access both times I tried. Didn?t get to Xmas mass, and the town centre was strangely subdued for a Xmas Eve, evidently everyone had partied on the weekend and was now spending time with their families.

Costs - 1720DOP
1000DOP Hotel Brisas del Yaque
100DOP internet
620DOP shopping

25 December
ANother lovely day, but funnily the Church was shut when I at last wandered to the main square, as were most shops and transport was scarce. So stayed another day watching TV and researching my trip around Costa Rica and Cuba over the next few months. Changing my mind on itineraries from one day to the next! ICe cream shop was open so stopped in there, and then watched Black Hawk Down on the cable TV back in the hotel. Otherwise a very tranquil, peaceful day.

Costs - 1160DOP
1000DOP Hotel Brisas del Yaque
40DOP icecream
120 shopping

26 December
Woke at 7 and took me a couple of hours to pack and head to the gua gua stop, which turned out to be an open top jeep, leaving for Costanza shortly after 9. Glorious scenery and pretty muddy, churned up roads for the most part, plus a slight drizzle. Arrived in Costanza around 10.45 and spent an hour wandering the streets before eating chicken and rice at the local bus terminal. Caught a very crowded camion, difficult to appreciate the stunning mountainous scenery for the 1.5 hour journey east to the main central Hwy, where was taken on a rip off 20min ride south to Piedras Blancas. had to wait tehre 75 mins for the camion driver to eventually leave for San Jose de Ocoa, which we never made that evening, since his Toyota Pickup sprung an oil leak and we had to wait for an hour for a mechanic to show up, and also assist a smokey diesel Daihatsu truck bogged in the mud.

Some of the poorest areas of the DR, wooden mud huts and not much else, yet the most expensive for transport due to teh terrible conditions

Arrived at Rancho Arriba, which I could have left 45mins before from Piedras Blancas around 7 = well adn truly dark and was dumped by the driver in town, and told to ask for a room at the restaurant, fortunately they had room, so after a quiet dinner and beer, headed for a much needed rest, passing out around 8. A very busy day after the bliss and serenity of 4 days in Jarabacoa ?not counting the traffic?

Costs - 1050DOP
80DOP camion from Jaribacoa to Costanza
120DOP plate of the day at Costanza
120DOP camion from Costanza to Rio Abonico (on hwy to Santo Domingo=
80DOP gua gua from hwy to Piedras Blancas
10DOP coffee and oranges
150DOP camion from Piedras Blancas to Rancho Arriba
250DOP room at clean but basic Tell Alpen Restaurant
70DOP beer
70DOP meal of eggs and tostones.


27 December
Enjoyed a very good slumber at Tell Alpen, waking at 7 and wandering the small town to find that the first gua gua left at 8, along a very poor washed out road for the first part of the 75 min journey south to San Jose de Ocoa, my intended destination yesterday.

It was a pleasant but relatively staid place to wander around, liked the sheep attached to the roof of the bandstand in the middle of the verdant town square, more like a jungle than a main plaza of the DR. Caught a gua gua at 10 for the half hour smooth journey south with great views of the river below. Tremendous destruction along the riverbanks still evident all the way from Jarabacoa.

Arrived at the Cruce Ocoa, the main east west hwy around 10.30 and waited in the scorching heat ?at least after the mild climate of the central highlands? until 11, for a crammed and hot 2 hour journey through the arid mountainous countryside of SW DR, arriving at Barahona around 1. Now internetting, before heading south for Paraiso to spend a couple of days there as a base to explore SW DR.

Nothing to do in Paraiso and the only hotel was not up to scratch. Wandered along the beach and drank beer as watched the sunset, nothing fantastic to the village, but friendly and laid back village, the journey along the coast was sublime, superb vistas of the ocean far below!

Wandered around the town at night, didn`t realise 25000 people lived there, or that it had a disco, but very little for the tourist to do there.


Costs - 1207DOP
100DOP gua gua from Rancho Arriba to San Jose de Ocoa
10DOP food at San Jose square
40DOP gua gua from San Jose to Cruce Ocoa
150DOP express bus from Cruce Ocoa to Barahona
30DOP internet at Barahona
60DOP guagua to Paraiso
137DOP lunch at Los Robles restaurant
10DOP empanadas on street in Paraiso
20DOP drink
70DOP beer
600DOP fan room with cold water at Hotel Paraiso, only hotel in village

28 December
Wandered down at dawn to Los Patos, further south of Paraiso, not much to see but glorious views of the treacherous surf, pounding against the pebble dashed banks. Not a place for swimming, and the local balneario was dirty and so didn`t venture in.

Left Paraiso at 10 by guagua back to Barahona, where checked into crumbling mansion of a place on the coast, slightly out of town, and now sheltering in the internet cafe from the midday scorching sun.

Spent most of the pm. sheltering from the heat in the internet cafe and trying to contact EcoTurs, eventually emailing them my hotel?s phone number and asking them to call, which Oliver, the tour operator, eventually did. Booked a tour tomorrow, and listened to wedding singers just below my balcony until 11. Quite a subdued affair it seemed. Bitten alive by mossies, and aircon was very loud! Didn`t get much sleep accordingly. Hotel reminded me of the Shining!

Costs 1390DOP
1000DOP Guarocosur Hotel & Casino - crumbling old hotel on waters edge, spacious rooms with aircon and cable TV and hot water, a way from the town (maybe a good thing)
60DOP guagua from Paraiso back to Barahona
65DOP cheese sandwich
125DOP internet
70DOP shopping
70DOP beer

29 December
Stumbled to much needed shower at 7, and readied myself for the excursion to Bahia de Las Aguilas in PN Jaragua, on the SW corner of DR. David, the local driver eventually turned up at 8.15 (appears he was waiting for me in the aircon minivan used by Eco Tur).

Headed back to Paraiso, the only passenger, since collecting a friendly French family from Hotel Paraiso, and meeting Oliver, who had run EcoTur for the past 5 years.

We left around 9.15 and stopped shortly afterwards at Los Patos, to visit the nearby cave with its Taino artefacts and drawings, Tainos had only used caves once the Spanish arrived, as a last refuge. Crawled into a delightful secluded chamber, used as a meeting room by the indians. Then headed south to Enriquillo, where the mountains gave way to semi arid pasture, although the road was still in excellent condition, apart from damage caused by Hurricane George in 1998.

We arrived at the disembarkation point for Bahia de las Aguilas (Cabo Rojo) around 11, for the 15 minute journey along the coast (and nearly into it at points), to the 7km long secluded beach. There were several other parties there, but plenty of space for everyone.

After setting up picnic area under shade, Oliver took us snorkelling to the coral reefs just offshore. It was OK, but plenty of evidence of the destruction from trawlers on the seabed. Enjoyed half an hour snorkelling, and then wandered to eastern edge of Bay, to natural cave, used by local and Haitian fishermen. Can fish in the NP apart from May and June.

Enjoyed a tasty lunch courtesy of Oliver`s cook back in Paraiso, and sculled welcome icy cold water! Returned to the reef for a second scuba session, before lolling in the shallows and enjoying my last day on a beach in the DR. Lovely weather, and a beautiful spot, with plenty of birdlife in the lagoons just behind the beach.

Our boat captain collected us around 3, and we made a slow journey back to Paraiso, searching for iguanas, sampling cheese and beer, and generally enjoying a very lazy tour of the SW peninsula. Lovely spot.

Returned to Oliver`s wife around 7, who presented a display of local handicrafts and larimar, but declined any offers to purchase, and returned back to Barahona at 8, a great tour and would recommend Eco Tur.

Wandered onto the malecon at Barahona to enjoy the party atmosphere of a Saturday night, most locals were out dancing and drinking, and enjoyed a couple of beers before turning in - one of the best days in DR so far. Hard to discover independent based tours here, everything seems to be organised through all inclusive resorts.
.
Costs - 3185DOP
1000DOP Guarocosur Hotel & Casino
2000DOP Ecotur to Bahia de las Aguilas
120DOP dinner
65DOP beer

Dominican trip report - December 2008 Part 5

30 December
Slept like a log, even with the aircon on full blast, showed how tired I was. Rose at 8 and checked out at 9, to catch 9.45 bus to Agua with Caribe Tours, still extremely hot. Spent a frustrating 50mins in Azua trying to get out, before finally catching express guagua at 11.40 west to San Juan Maguana, a sleepy, agricultural town. Arrived there at 1, and spent half an hour traipsing around to find the splendid Hotel San Juan Maguana, excellent value in the town centre.

Found a street side bar, billiard hall a block away from the main square, and spent a couple of hours drinking the sunset down, before dining at the only eating option on the square, Rey de Pollo, DR could certainly improve its uses of its main plazas and squares.

Costs - 1705DOP
20DOP motoconcho to Caribe Tours terminal
70DOP bus from Barahona to Azua
15DOP icypoles in Azua
100DOP gua gua from Azua to San Juan de Maguana
850DOP HOtel Maguana, excellent value with aircon, cable TV
250DOP buffet lunch at Hotel Maguana
50DOP internet (2 hrs)
200DOP Rey de Pollo dinner
150DOP 3 beers

31 December
Wandered around San Juan after a lovely buffet breakfast, had my hair cut and purchased an alarm clock, before packing and catching the 10.15 Caribe Tour bus back to Santo Domingo, arriving there around 1.45. Walked to Hotel La Danae in Gazcue, mostly past the massive US embassy, only to find they had not kept my reservation despite me paying for the night when I first got to SD a month ago! Really poor service and don`t see how it could be so well recommended by guide books etc. FOund a much poorer room, for only slightly cheaper, at nearby Hotel Residencial, but at least it`s close to the Malecon where most of the New Years Eve action will take place.

Wandered into the Zona Colonial to explore the historic streets once more. Very enjoyable spot. Ate snack on balcony of Residencial hotel, before wandering down at 9 to the Malecon where the fiesta was kicking off, with bachata and merengue blaring from the speakers, with the local artists giving their best dance moves on the stage at the head of the park. It was a great evening, culminating with the obligatory fireworks at midnight, and the music kept going for at least another half hour before I called it a day, not much of a night owl these days...


Costs 1828DOP
68DOP batteries and alarm clock
100DOP haircut
220DOP Caribe tour bus from San Juan Maguana to Santo Domingo
15DOP Listin Diario paper
15DOP ice cream
900DOP Hotel Residencial, room doesn`t lock and poor value after last night in San Juan
30DOP internet
90DOP lunch (Chinese)
30DOP snacks
290DOP beers

1 January 2008
Woke at first light (around 7) and went to nearby Plaza de la Cultura at 8, only to find everything shut due to the public holiday for New Years. Wandered north to a boulevard of odd shaped sculptures on 27 de Febrero, and then headed back to the seaside to the Centro de Heroes park, which was currently closed for renovations. So wandered along the Malecon back to Gazcue, passing the troupes of cleaners tidying up the detrius of the previous night`s festivities.

Returned to hotel in time to watch Man U beat Birmingham, and then packed my gear to wander back to Hotel Freeman in the Zona Colonial. Met the French family doing last minute shopping in El Conde as I wandered through, and now spending the afternoon internetting since everything else appears to be closed! Ma head to Boca Chica tomorrow to visit Alex, the missionary I met in Monte Cristi.

In summary, have enjoyed Dominican Republic ' although it`s a very frustrating place to travel around as an independent backpacker (without a drivers licence).

I like countryside far more than cities, but ironically, my favourite places in the DR are
Puerto Plato - a real tip of a place, but very friendly easy going locals
Santo DOmingo - again,a really relaxed place, so at odds with most Hispanic cities
Jarabacoa - superbly located, friendly place, if only they could get rid of the motorcycles...
Rio San Juan - again, just a rural friendly town - great ambience, and particularly liked having a beer at the bar in the supermarket!
Bayahibe - great when the tourist hordes leave
Most hotels check out times, some were 2, even 3 in the p.m. so different to anywhere else I?ve travelled where they want you out of the room pronto!

Things I would do differently
Bring an international drivers licence
Not change money at the airport
Book tours in advance
Use Caribe Bus whenever possible
Get a DR language tape, their Spanish is so different from elsewhere!

Thanks again for everyone`s help on this forum, it has been really useful and informative, a real example of how the internet can transform a travel experience.

Yes no problem for people to use it, but remember that prices, accommodation can change pretty quickly...

Thanks again for everyone?s help, now in Costa Rica and wonder if there?s any similar websites for that country.