Leviton Surge Suppressor

Danny W

Bronze
Mar 1, 2003
999
12
0
I'm planning on installing a whole house surge protector for my house in Sosua. We have 4 air conditioners, electric hot water heater, electric dryer, 3 lcd tvs.microwave, dish washer swimming pool...the works. The Leviton 42120-1 surge suppressor has been recommended to me. Here's a link 42120-1 > Branch Panel Protection ? 42000/32000 Series Surge Panels > Surge Protection Panels > Power Solutions > Network Solutions > All Leviton Products from Leviton Electrical and Electronic Products

If the consensus is that this is a good unit, I'm going to bring one down from the states. I know nothing about electricity, so please fire away everyone.

thanks,
Danny
 

bigbird

Gold
May 1, 2005
7,375
163
0
Several months ago I installed an Intermatic Whole House Panel Guard in my home in the USA. I chose this model because it has an indicator light to let you know you have protection. When the surge protector is not functioning a red indicator light will light up.

The Leviton you mention has all that plus an audible alarm. Leviton has a history of making good products.

I still have the strip surge protectors for my pc, TV, etc. The problem with the strip protector is you really don't know if they are working or not.

For the small investment it is well worth it.

Do you plan to install the unit yourself?

I'm planning on installing a whole house surge protector for my house in Sosua. We have 4 air conditioners, electric hot water heater, electric dryer, 3 lcd tvs.microwave, dish washer swimming pool...the works. The Leviton 42120-1 surge suppressor has been recommended to me. Here's a link 42120-1 > Branch Panel Protection ? 42000/32000 Series Surge Panels > Surge Protection Panels > Power Solutions > Network Solutions > All Leviton Products from Leviton Electrical and Electronic Products

If the consensus is that this is a good unit, I'm going to bring one down from the states. I know nothing about electricity, so please fire away everyone.

thanks,
Danny
 
Last edited:

mike.s

New member
Oct 1, 2008
5
2
0
Before you buy the surge protector make sure the ground circuit is hooked up and working. I've found that in the D.R. there is no electric code and the "electricians" only hook up the live and neutral. The surge protectors need a ground circuit to work
 

Danny W

Bronze
Mar 1, 2003
999
12
0
Several months ago I installed an Intermatic Whole House Panel Guard in my home in the USA. I chose this model because it has an indicator light to let you know you have protection. When the surge protector is not functioning a red indicator light will light up.

The Leviton you mention has all that plus an audible alarm. Leviton has a history of making good products.

I still have the strip surge protectors for my pc, TV, etc. The problem with the strip protector is you really don't know if they are working or not.

For the small investment it is well worth it.

Do you plan to install the unit yourself?

Absolutely, I will NOT install it myself. - D
 

Danny W

Bronze
Mar 1, 2003
999
12
0
Before you buy the surge protector make sure the ground circuit is hooked up and working. I've found that in the D.R. there is no electric code and the "electricians" only hook up the live and neutral. The surge protectors need a ground circuit to work

I will make sure. - D
 

Olly

Bronze
Mar 12, 2007
1,914
104
63
Hi Danny W.
I always find this topic very interesting. The Leviton surge protector is a good product but I am not sure you want the audible alrm bit. The surge suppression is rate at 80kA which is pretty good. Others Whole house surge protectors such as Sqare D and GE THQLSURGE are rate at about 75kA and these ae avaiallbe in the US at $100 to $200.

I have recently fitted a Square D surge protector, four THQLSURGE units by GE , and one THSASURGE60 also by GE. These are all available in the US and on line. Not very expensive really. One of these units was fiited to a rebuilt Cabana in Villa Flor in Sosua.
Square D required an earth as does THSASURGE60, but in the instructions for fitting them there are alternatives in no "earth" is available. THQLSURGE fits directly into any GE Load centre so is easy to fit.

The experience so far has been good with these and noticeably reducing the effect of surges.
I am just about to upgrade our surge protection by adding a THSASURGE60 at our transfer panel and ensuring the grounding is adequate.

While I have no expereince of the Leviton Unit its specification is pretty good but I would hate you to be up and down all night with that audible alarm.

I have added some links to information and previous posts on this subject you might want to read.

How to Choose Surge Protection for your Home (Part 2) provided courtesy State Farm Insurance on the Natural Handyman Home Repair And Do It Yourself Website

http://www.dr1.com/forums/living/85843-transcient-voltage-protection.html

HTH

Olly
 

Danny W

Bronze
Mar 1, 2003
999
12
0
Hi Danny W.
I always find this topic very interesting. The Leviton surge protector is a good product but I am not sure you want the audible alrm bit. The surge suppression is rate at 80kA which is pretty good. Others Whole house surge protectors such as Sqare D and GE THQLSURGE are rate at about 75kA and these ae avaiallbe in the US at $100 to $200.

I have recently fitted a Square D surge protector, four THQLSURGE units by GE , and one THSASURGE60 also by GE. These are all available in the US and on line. Not very expensive really. One of these units was fiited to a rebuilt Cabana in Villa Flor in Sosua.
Square D required an earth as does THSASURGE60, but in the instructions for fitting them there are alternatives in no "earth" is available. THQLSURGE fits directly into any GE Load centre so is easy to fit.

The experience so far has been good with these and noticeably reducing the effect of surges.
I am just about to upgrade our surge protection by adding a THSASURGE60 at our transfer panel and ensuring the grounding is adequate.

While I have no expereince of the Leviton Unit its specification is pretty good but I would hate you to be up and down all night with that audible alarm.

I have added some links to information and previous posts on this subject you might want to read.

How to Choose Surge Protection for your Home (Part 2) provided courtesy State Farm Insurance on the Natural Handyman Home Repair And Do It Yourself Website

http://www.dr1.com/forums/living/85843-transcient-voltage-protection.html

HTH

Olly

You make a great point about not needing or wanting the alarm. Being an ignoramus when it comes to electricity, I'm really just looking for a knowledgeable person to tell me what to buy. I'm in NY, so every type of unit is undoubtedly available. My house, as I said before, has the works: electric hot water, electric dryer, 4 air conditioners, pool pump, water pump, big fridge, dish washer, 3 led tvs, electric front gate...the whole gringo setup.

I would love your recommendation.

thanks,
Danny
 

westom

New member
Dec 4, 2009
16
0
0
My house, as I said before, has the works: electric hot water, electric dryer, 4 air conditioners, pool pump, water pump, big fridge, dish washer, 3 led tvs, electric front gate...the whole gringo setup.
I would love your recommendation.
No surge protector provides protection. Protection is provided by the only 'system component' that absorbs energy - earth ground. A protector is only a connecting device. Protection means every wire in every incoming cable must connect short to earth. Typically less than 10 feet to earth.

Surges seek earth ground. Either that energy dissipates harmlessly in earth. Or that energy is inside the building seeking earth destructively via appliances. Your choice. Buildings are so full of conductive materials that a surge will find many sneaky or obvious paths destructively via appliances.

All appliances contain significant protection. A 'whole house' protector is earthed so that the rare transient (typically once every seven years) does not overwhelm that protection. So that everything is protected. Note numbers on any minimally acceptable protector. Numbers that exceed a typical direct lightning strike. An effective ?whole house? protector must conduct a complete surge - and remain functional. Effective protection means nobody even knows the surge existed. Not even the protector is damaged from a direct lightning strike.

But a protector is only as effective as the thing that provides protection - earth ground. How do you make a protector even better? Upgrade the earthing. Not just a larger network of ground rods or a buried loops surrounding the building. Also critical is how the protector connects to earth. For example, the safety ground in a typical receptacle may be 50 feet to earth. So long as to be all but no earthing. Receptacles only have safety grounds; not earth grounds.

That ground wire must be short (ie 'less than 10 feet'). No sharp bends. Every ground separate until all meet at that earthing electrode. Wire separated from non-ground wires. Not inside metallic conduit. For example, a ground wire from the breaker box, over the foundation, and down to earth will compromise protection. Better protection means a wire goes through the foundation and down to earth. Shorter wire. Eliminate 90 degree bends. Ground wire separated other wires above the box. All factors so that the protection 'system' connects more energy into earth.

What will a power strip do? How to quickly identify ineffective protectors. 1) It has no dedicated connection for that always required short connection to earth. 2) Manufacturer avoids all discussion of earthing. 3) It does not claim protection from a typically destructive surge in its numeric specs.

Many somehow believe a little part inside a power strip (rated at hundreds of joules) will absorb surges that are hundreds of thousands of joules. If it cannot absorb a surge, then what does it do? Sometimes, power strip protectors earth that surge destructively via adjacent appliances. We have traced such events. Why does it happen? A power strip protector simply connects a surge to more wires. Gives a surge more paths to find earth ground destructively via some nearby appliance. Either the appliance plugged into it or an appliance across the room. Once inside a building, that energy must dissipate somewhere. Surge protection is always about where that energy dissipates.

Protection is defined by the quality of single point ground. Every incoming utility must connect to that ground. Either directly - without any protector (cable TV, satellite dish). Or via a 'whole house' protector (AC electric, telephone). Only component always required in every protection system - earth ground. Why do plug-in protectors not discuss what provides protection? View their profit margins. A protector is only as effective as its earth ground - which is why an earthing connection must both meet and exceed code requirements.
 

bob saunders

Platinum
Jan 1, 2002
32,471
5,902
113
dr1.com
No surge protector provides protection. Protection is provided by the only 'system component' that absorbs energy - earth ground. A protector is only a connecting device. Protection means every wire in every incoming cable must connect short to earth. Typically less than 10 feet to earth.

Surges seek earth ground. Either that energy dissipates harmlessly in earth. Or that energy is inside the building seeking earth destructively via appliances. Your choice. Buildings are so full of conductive materials that a surge will find many sneaky or obvious paths destructively via appliances.

All appliances contain significant protection. A 'whole house' protector is earthed so that the rare transient (typically once every seven years) does not overwhelm that protection. So that everything is protected. Note numbers on any minimally acceptable protector. Numbers that exceed a typical direct lightning strike. An effective ?whole house? protector must conduct a complete surge - and remain functional. Effective protection means nobody even knows the surge existed. Not even the protector is damaged from a direct lightning strike.

But a protector is only as effective as the thing that provides protection - earth ground. How do you make a protector even better? Upgrade the earthing. Not just a larger network of ground rods or a buried loops surrounding the building. Also critical is how the protector connects to earth. For example, the safety ground in a typical receptacle may be 50 feet to earth. So long as to be all but no earthing. Receptacles only have safety grounds; not earth grounds.

That ground wire must be short (ie 'less than 10 feet'). No sharp bends. Every ground separate until all meet at that earthing electrode. Wire separated from non-ground wires. Not inside metallic conduit. For example, a ground wire from the breaker box, over the foundation, and down to earth will compromise protection. Better protection means a wire goes through the foundation and down to earth. Shorter wire. Eliminate 90 degree bends. Ground wire separated other wires above the box. All factors so that the protection 'system' connects more energy into earth.

What will a power strip do? How to quickly identify ineffective protectors. 1) It has no dedicated connection for that always required short connection to earth. 2) Manufacturer avoids all discussion of earthing. 3) It does not claim protection from a typically destructive surge in its numeric specs.

Many somehow believe a little part inside a power strip (rated at hundreds of joules) will absorb surges that are hundreds of thousands of joules. If it cannot absorb a surge, then what does it do? Sometimes, power strip protectors earth that surge destructively via adjacent appliances. We have traced such events. Why does it happen? A power strip protector simply connects a surge to more wires. Gives a surge more paths to find earth ground destructively via some nearby appliance. Either the appliance plugged into it or an appliance across the room. Once inside a building, that energy must dissipate somewhere. Surge protection is always about where that energy dissipates.

Protection is defined by the quality of single point ground. Every incoming utility must connect to that ground. Either directly - without any protector (cable TV, satellite dish). Or via a 'whole house' protector (AC electric, telephone). Only component always required in every protection system - earth ground. Why do plug-in protectors not discuss what provides protection? View their profit margins. A protector is only as effective as its earth ground - which is why an earthing connection must both meet and exceed code requirements.

Nice article but reality in the the DR is transient voltage spike and surges of power happen considerably more often than once every 7 years.
 

Squat

Tropical geek in Las Terrenas
Jan 1, 2002
2,239
168
63
Before you buy the surge protector make sure the ground circuit is hooked up and working. I've found that in the D.R. there is no electric code and the "electricians" only hook up the live and neutral. The surge protectors need a ground circuit to work
+1

I would say that before spending money on gadgets, have your house properly wired and grounded (oversized electrical wire is great, ground plug is a must, with differential).

Also make sure the wires that connects your breakers to your meter are adequate, in size...

Gimmicks are fun, but a well grounded installation really makes the difference...

(don't believe the hype ;) )
 

Danny W

Bronze
Mar 1, 2003
999
12
0
+1

I would say that before spending money on gadgets, have your house properly wired and grounded (oversized electrical wire is great, ground plug is a must, with differential).

Also make sure the wires that connects your breakers to your meter are adequate, in size...

Gimmicks are fun, but a well grounded installation really makes the difference...

(don't believe the hype ;) )

All this makes sense, but where does one find a capable electrician on the Nort Coast to make those correct connections?
 

westom

New member
Dec 4, 2009
16
0
0
Nice article but reality in the the DR is transient voltage spike and surges of power happen considerably more often than once every 7 years.
In Central Florida, something like once every two years. A number that can vary significantly even within the town. A number affected by things such as geology or the location of nearby buried pipelines.

How often do neighbors suffer damage over the last ten years?

Lightning struck Franklins wooden church steeple to obtain a better path to earthborn charges maybe miles away. Instead of traveling five miles across the sky, current may travel three miles down to earth, then four miles through earth. So that your appliances are not in that path, you must intercept and divert that current on a path to earth that is harmless. That is what Franklin did with a lightning rod. That is what you will be doing with a 'whole house' protector. That is the surge that overwhelms protection inside an appliance.

Protector spec numbers are based in parameters for lightning. They are designed for conducting the big surge. If little surges were created by appliances, protectors would be toast in months. Those appliance generated surges are popular myth. For if they existed, you were visiting hardware stores daily to replace dimmer switches, GFCIs, smoke detectors, your dishwasher, and clock radios.
 

westom

New member
Dec 4, 2009
16
0
0
... but where does one find a capable electrician on the Nort Coast to make those correct connections?
Wire thickness is not important. A thicker wire would decrease resistance. Resistance is not the problem. Wire must be shorter, no sharp bends, etc. A shorter wires lowers wire impedance. Impedance - not resistance - is critical to surge protection.

A 6 AWG (quarter inch diameter) bare and solid copper wire has more than sufficient thickness to handle a direct lightning strike. Keeping the connection short, no sharp wire bends, etc is essential to surge protection.