- Thread starter janlindy
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concrete sealer
Impercool Base Cemento | Cemix Centroamérica
Impercool Base Cemento de Cemix, es un impermeabilizante reforzado base cemento, sistema todo en uno: Sella, Resana e Impermeabiliza.
centroamerica.cemix.com
If your paint is bubbling, it's probably acrylic semigloss paint.
Be aware the water in the bubbles is probably coming from higher up, like your roof.
If you just scrap off the bubble and paint with sealer, it will bubble again in the not-too-distant future.
Be aware the water in the bubbles is probably coming from higher up, like your roof.
If you just scrap off the bubble and paint with sealer, it will bubble again in the not-too-distant future.
Pardon my lack of exact terms, I am not into construction.
In a different, tropical country, my contractor did this :
1. Apply some sealant/cement like mixture on the rooftop/terrace between the tiles (we have flat roofs with terraces in general here) and made sure rain water can drain off (we have to regularly clear the drain pipes before the rainy season starts)
2. Painted all exterior walls with special water resistant paint mixed with a sealant
3. Because it is an old building, did the same on the inside after scraping off all the walls and then applied another coat of interior paint
Have not had the paint peeling issue since then (been 18 months so far)
In a different, tropical country, my contractor did this :
1. Apply some sealant/cement like mixture on the rooftop/terrace between the tiles (we have flat roofs with terraces in general here) and made sure rain water can drain off (we have to regularly clear the drain pipes before the rainy season starts)
2. Painted all exterior walls with special water resistant paint mixed with a sealant
3. Because it is an old building, did the same on the inside after scraping off all the walls and then applied another coat of interior paint
Have not had the paint peeling issue since then (been 18 months so far)
is it possible to get in country ????Impercool Base Cemento | Cemix Centroamérica
Impercool Base Cemento de Cemix, es un impermeabilizante reforzado base cemento, sistema todo en uno: Sella, Resana e Impermeabiliza.
Yo have to get rid of the source of the water !!!! Sealing from inside will just lead the humidity somewhere else and make more structural damage.
Always exterior first starting with the roof. That's the cause 97% of the time. No none of the products you buy at the regular hardware stores work long term. They're all weaker down here for some reason. If it's a concrete roof fix the base layer first (what they call the plato), so concrete slurry with a sealant additive to get in all the microfissures and larger cracks like Bob said then your waterproofing second. Thick EPDM or reinforced asphalt properly applied over top (with torches) and flashing all around and on top of edges and passthroughs, roofing grade rubber or other more elastic sealant on satellite dishes/bolts/cable pegs. The "paint-on" ones don't last, and you'll need maintenance every few years. You might see some people use bitumen and sawdust to make a paste and pile it on cracks but that washes away in any strong enough weather. If it's a tile or other roof, pitch works best. Else if you have a cabana type cana roof with wood trusses underneath all you can do is replace any old sections and work on the drainage, maybe put in runoff plates along the top of your walls. Keep drainages clear.
Make sure any contractor you get to do this gives you an actual warranty, the quality of roofing materials for this type of work has severely decreased.
Second is drainage around windows, awnings, etc. Sometimes the angles not right so the water doesn't drain away from the window or the awnings are the fabric/metal kind that aren't sealed properly along the top that meets the wall and that lets water seep in and degrade the concrete.
Now for the last 1%, and that's either an actual pipe or fixture leaking inside a wall somewhere or on the roof or if you live in an apartment building or first floor, somewhere above you. Pipes on the roof from a vat or something similar are easy to fix, just turn of the mains, patch or replace and observe for a few days to confirm no leaks and no further moisture, then find and seal any cracks/openings the constant drip might have caused. Inside walls you might need to get a plumber to source the leak and fix it, hopefully doesn't require small demo.
In all cases JD Jones is right, if you seal the inside walls before fixing your problem they won't be able to breathe/expel moisture and you risk further breakdown, rusting rebar and mildew/mold somewhere else. Keep in mind that also means that you could see water in one corner or along one wall and the actual source be on the opposite end of the home.
Make sure any contractor you get to do this gives you an actual warranty, the quality of roofing materials for this type of work has severely decreased.
Second is drainage around windows, awnings, etc. Sometimes the angles not right so the water doesn't drain away from the window or the awnings are the fabric/metal kind that aren't sealed properly along the top that meets the wall and that lets water seep in and degrade the concrete.
Now for the last 1%, and that's either an actual pipe or fixture leaking inside a wall somewhere or on the roof or if you live in an apartment building or first floor, somewhere above you. Pipes on the roof from a vat or something similar are easy to fix, just turn of the mains, patch or replace and observe for a few days to confirm no leaks and no further moisture, then find and seal any cracks/openings the constant drip might have caused. Inside walls you might need to get a plumber to source the leak and fix it, hopefully doesn't require small demo.
In all cases JD Jones is right, if you seal the inside walls before fixing your problem they won't be able to breathe/expel moisture and you risk further breakdown, rusting rebar and mildew/mold somewhere else. Keep in mind that also means that you could see water in one corner or along one wall and the actual source be on the opposite end of the home.
I'm sold on a Pinturas Popular product called Dry Blockaid. Comes in a 40lb bucket. It's a powder and you can mix it thick for a roof with a slope or thinner for flat areas, Application with trowel, paint brush or roller. Available at most hardware stores or at Popular stores. I agree with the other posters, fix the roof first, then repair the damaged interior walls or ceilings.
Slope is your friend on roofs with as few valleys or roof to wall interfaces as possible.
I like the idea of adding powdered waterproofing to cement on the plaster coat outside, then a long curing period before painting. Cement effervesces and if you paint too quickly it will be attacked from behind even with a primer coat.
Use an airless paint sprayer with a water resistant paint and someone with a roller following the airless.
Let's face it their are some good products available in DR but paint quality is sorely lacking in durability. In the US Behr, Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams are not cheap but their premium grades do last.
15 years for an exterior paint job is easily possible in many climates with proper prep & application.
I like the idea of adding powdered waterproofing to cement on the plaster coat outside, then a long curing period before painting. Cement effervesces and if you paint too quickly it will be attacked from behind even with a primer coat.
Use an airless paint sprayer with a water resistant paint and someone with a roller following the airless.
Let's face it their are some good products available in DR but paint quality is sorely lacking in durability. In the US Behr, Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams are not cheap but their premium grades do last.
15 years for an exterior paint job is easily possible in many climates with proper prep & application.