Dominican Republic motorcycle adventure. The DR is much more than the beach– The Big Loop - Tom Junkans

cavebiker

Have a dream, live it. Set a goal, achieve it.
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Time for a big motorcycle adventure. I've been riding this island for almost 30 years now doing many shorter rides. It has been great and has filled my life with unreal experiences and adventure that I will never forget. Life is short and the older I get the more friends I lose the more I understand that the time to Do-It is now! There is no waiting for tomorrow and Some Day is not on any calendar. Here we go! Hang on tight!

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I recently read an article of a women breaking the Guinness World record for Longest Continuous Journey by Motorcycle within a Single Country. I thought that would be fun to try to set the record for just the Dominican Republic, using the Guinness rules. The rules are simple, you cannot cross or touch the same section of track and the attempt needs to be well documented with photos and GPS tracks. Perfect, maybe this will catch on. At least for now it will get me to places I would not otherwise go to and it should add to the fun, we will see. This is not a serious attempt but rather a recon mission to see if certain tracks are doable or even there. Fun stuff!

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The motorcycle is waiting, new chain and fresh oil change, perfect. The team at X-Trem rental Sasua are a great group of people willing to help anyone make their dreams come true. YES!

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This is a good bike for the DR. I have plenty of room to strap gear on the rear and it feels good for Heidi riding 2-Up, those are the main things. It feels low on power but I can hit 60mph on the flats easy, faster them most bikes on the island. I'm not in a race so I don't need to go any faster.

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My first mission is to ride into Puerto Plata for adventure supplies; emergency canned foods, bungie cords, a fender pack to strap on the rear and a large road map of the island. I arrived on the island with my own motorcycle cable and lock but did not need to, the store I found the fender pack has an assortment of cables and locks. And yes, smart phones are great and I would not have found this book store with the maps without one but for any big road trip like this you cannot see the big picture details like you can with a paper map. Yahoo!!
 

cavebiker

Have a dream, live it. Set a goal, achieve it.
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Here We Go! Any loop of the country must include the Puerto Plata Malecon, always a must stop. Enjoying a coffee ocean side here is easy, just pick a cafe and park.

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The Malecón is so clean now. Heidi and I miss all the food and rum carts that use to fill the sea side back in the nineties, but we don't miss all the garbage that use to be everywhere. Wish there could be a compromise food carts and clean Malecón. ??

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The goal today is either Luperon, Punta Rucia or Monti Cristi depending on the roads and how it goes. A perfect ride plan in my books; always have a contingency incase things don't go as planned. In the past I have learned ride planning can be tricky on this island depending on the area. Some areas have no motels and even finding food can be hard sometimes. In Puerto Plata I stock up on cans of tuna and protein bars just in case. And I carry 1.5L of water and an energy drink just for emergencies like a flat tire repair in the heat. Just outside of Puerto Plata I fill up on gas water and empanadas at the last station on the West side of town. Day-1 joy is well under way!

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The route today hugs Bahia del Maimón on a dirt road heading West.

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The road follows the coast and passes a couple beach communities. Rustic food shacks with umbrellas and lawn chairs. Looks like a fun area.

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The dirt road is much improved compared to other years. All good.

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The road has some whooped out areas I am having fun on. I sense the rear pack sliding off. Not good.

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Good use of the cable lock to hold the fender bag on tight when I'm not parked. We will see...

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I love the traffic on these back roads.

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While riding I'm on a constant lookout for small local convenience stores called a colmado. Always a great opportunity to chitchat hydrate and possibly score some homemade food.

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Small church in the back.

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Back in the day before GPS & smartphone navigation signs like this would have been great. At least they are here now.

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I kill the bike while they pass. I really don't have to, it just adds to the fun for me.

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You can see the sailboat masts at the Luperon hurricane hole from here. I'll never forget seeing this my first ride to Luperon back in the nineties. This was the only sign then that told me I was on the right path. So cool!
 

cavebiker

Have a dream, live it. Set a goal, achieve it.
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The port authority guard lowered the gate so I could ride out onto the pier. My first exposure to the Dominican Republic was reading the book 'Gentleman's Guide to Passages South' the author Bruce Van Sant really played up the island as a great place to spend the hurricane season and to provision his sailboat. He wrote about using a guagua to get around the island, going to and staying in Santo Domingo to find supplies. I was obsessed with the book and the thought of sailing to the Dominican Republic back then. My first ride in 95' was here Luperon so I could hang in a port side bar with sailboat scallywags and the like. It was just like I imagined it back then, rustic crude and loose. Super fun.

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There are so many sailboats here today I couldn't imagine what would take place if a real hurricane was to threaten the area! As a sailboat owner you must find a protected patch of mangroves where you drive your boat straight into them then lash several lines to them and to serious anchors to ride out the storm. With this many boats I envision a cluster chaos if a storm did threaten the port. Lemmings?

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Before we first moved to the island back in 95' we owned a sailboat and were preparing to sail here starting from Florida. We took Caribbean navigation classes, practiced heavy weather sailing and navigation and spent weeks at a time on our boat practicing on lake Superior and others. This could have been us!

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I stop at a colmado in town for water and yogurt. This truck is selling limes and avocados.

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A couple walks up the street. I ask them if they just dinged ashore from a boat. Fun couple! From Washington state are now spending the hurricane season in Luperon. They have sailed all around the Caribbean and are living the life. The guy tells me he once rode with a group to the Panama Canal on a DR650! So cool the people you meet on the road. And we think we are big adventures...
 

JD Jones

Moderator:North Coast,Santo Domingo,SW Coast,Covid
Jan 7, 2016
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I know it's a cliche, but this is going to be epic!

The best part will be from Dajabon to Enriquillo, riding along the mountain tops like these for hours, mile after mile.

Roads so narrow you can only turn around on a bike.


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cavebiker

Have a dream, live it. Set a goal, achieve it.
Alright lets keep this going! Thanks for the kind words all. More comments will only help this report :)
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It's still early, I continue heading West along the coast.

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The first Spanish settlement and town in the Americas, La Isabela.

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This road has really improved, it used to be all dirt complete with river crossings on homemade rafts! Now there is a nice new bridge and no dirt. Hate to say it but I liked it better back then.

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Rural barber.

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The road to Punta Rucia is paved now also. This use to be a rough route especially 2-up with Heidi.

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Punta Rucia... With the paved roads came development, not to my liking. The beautiful beach and cape that Heidi and I first were able to ride right up to, put down our kickstand on the beach under a shade tree and pick from a dozen or more seafood shacks to sit at is gone. All I can see now is a large parking area filled with cars and attends demanding $100 pesos to park. Riding further down the beach and into town I do find a place to ride onto the beach and park. Beautiful as ever but the place has definitely been discovered.

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These fiberglass boats are heavy. I wait to see how they get it to float.

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No problem...

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The small seaside village has grown making it barely recognizable. There is nothing here anymore calling me to stay the night. The beach is still phenomenal and I would stay if I see a cozy motel, but I do not and it is still early, plenty of time to make Monti Cristi taking the back roads.

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Even these back roads are paved, did not expect that. The easy travel is making a pleasant ride through this pure DR rural area, and I can dig that.

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The closer I get to the Haiti border the more DR military presence I see. All day I've rode through official military checkpoints with a distinctive military building adjacent. These check points are all new to me. It feels good. Things are under control.

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This is close to the Haiti border. No S_ is going to be allowed to go down here. I am changing my route though away from the border town Dajabón . They are doing a job there I don't need to be in anyone's way...
 

cavebiker

Have a dream, live it. Set a goal, achieve it.
Thank you all for the comments. Fires me to continue writing and riding this most fantastic country. Please keep them coming!

Hey cavok, I'm using an old Canon Powershot camera. It takes great pics if I hold it steady. Previously I've had two expensive Panasonic Lumix cameras with image stabilization and other features which take awesome pics but both Lumix cameras crapped out on me, the canon keeps on going. I plan on purchasing another more modern Canon with stabilization soon when the one I have gives it up. Thanks!

On with the ride!
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Monte Cristi of course has also grown but for me it feels good. Years ago it seemed abandoned dry and dusty. Now things are happening like a real hip DR town.
I look to get some service on the bike, a favorite Dominican Republic activity for me. The gas cap key lock is tight and sticky.
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It doesn't matter what's going on at the shop I get help right away. As soon as the mechanic understands my Spanish words 'Neciesito lubricante" and what I want he is on-it! Just great.

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Talking with and asking for help from DR moto mechanics is often a highlight of my day. These guys are great. The brotherhood among bikers is strong here, like all Latin American countries I think. Fun stuff!

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There are a few hotels in town I thought would be a cheaper option but the parking is not there or is not good. I ride to the end of beach road where there are a few tourist hotels. The place I want is full and expensive. The other places don't look open. I head back closer to town where there are more options. First I must stop and take in the scene.

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There are a few cool beach lodges past where the road T's on the dirt section. The first place is a residential hotel, the other place looks closed. Next I pull into this lodge. It's open but no guests are here but me. It's affordable, breakfast is included but the rooms are way small with no windows. The location and grounds are ideal but it's not for me.

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Back past the road T I score this place for under $50 US. I thought it would be out of my price range when I first rode past. Gated secure parking, ocean view room with balcony and breakfast included. And the room comes equipped with two cold beers! OK, what's wrong with picture!

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Everything is great, sea view, big moon and beer. There are two small bar restaurants next door with one packed with people blasting music on a powerful stereo. No big deal I liked the music until later in the evening when the music starts getting louder and louder and LOUDER! In typical beach bar fashion the stereo is eventually cranked way beyond it's capacity distorting the sound making it so irritable I need to stick my fingers in my ears while in the room. Are you kidding me! At first I thought of returning with Heidi but not anymore.

A block away is a hotel right on the water with balconies and a pool side bar, away from the two beach bars with the stereo. At first I also thought this would be out of my price range. I take a walk over to check it out and find the price is about the same as where I'm at! Heidi will like it here, we will return.

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The included breakfast at the hotel is super, perfect, ready to roll. The plan today is ride South to Copey then East toward Gozuela then over the mountains toward Jarabacoa. This is a long day, we will see how it goes. Because of the mountains I'm forced to ride toward Santiago for a while where I expect an increase in population and number of roads. No problem, this should add significantly to my options for today, hotels, food and alternate routes. All good stuff while on an adventure ride.

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Always on the lookout. Empanadas!

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Colmado, always biker friendly!

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No matter where I travel on a moto, often my favorite chill spots (places where motorcycle travelers rest) are on farm roads (side roads to a farm or field). If I'm lucky enough to have a chitchat with anyone at these spots it's almost guaranteed to be a memorable and enjoyable experience.

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A big colmado in a small town, Super Colmado. This moto concho driver and others park in the shade outside the store waiting for customers.

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This would make a good Komida delivery thing (like a DR DoorDash). I'm sure the upfront cost is a fraction of a motorcycle. ?

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So far I've seen Army check points everywhere. Just great never once did I feel anxious thinking about needing money. Back in the nineties I owned the motorcycle, and my papers were not totally complete, but I had a lot of colorful stamps on the papers I did have. This usually got me through with just a small fine. Ropes stretched across the road were used to stop bikes at that time, there were no police cars. Now I don't even need to make eye contact, a respectful slow speed and nod is more than enough for me. I must not look too threating with those goggles, ha ha.
 

cavebiker

Have a dream, live it. Set a goal, achieve it.
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Jarabacoa! After a little work I find a main grocery store and a popular empanada place. Not easy today in this town for some reason. The heavy traffic may have played a role. I am set now, food drink and map for planning tomorrows ride, Barahona region.

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Jarabacoa offers a lot of upscale lodging but with a little effort bargains can still be found. $60 US Café Colao Hotel and Restaurant seems a good choice. Close enough to town for supplies and far enough to be tranquillo. There are also little cabin to rent in the cool art deco courtyard.

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Equipment failure and repair.

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Found the entrance to the Jurassic Park movie site. Bummer that it is locked. I'm glad I hiked it years ago when it was wide open to all.


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Riding to Constanza today then over the mountain and climate zones through Valle Nuevo National Park. The traffic will be minimal today just the way I like it.

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cavebiker

Have a dream, live it. Set a goal, achieve it.
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Stuff really grows around Constanz.

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This guy in this truck has live chickens for sale. The speaker on top of the chicken creates is blasting out the price. I think I hear cuarenta peso! Hard to believe.

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She is singing out something like "precio

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I spot roadside coffee.

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Perfect.

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A pile of people jump out of this pickup truck then jump on the back of waiting moto conchos, like a well choreographed ballet.

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I've stopped here in the past. Fresh cut fruit with a stick and strong DR coffee. Stops like this are often the highlight of my day,

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Perfect road food.

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bob saunders

Platinum
Jan 1, 2002
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Stuff really grows around Constanz.

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This guy in this truck has live chickens for sale. The speaker on top of the chicken creates is blasting out the price. I think I hear cuarenta peso! Hard to believe.

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She is singing out something like "precio

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I spot roadside coffee.

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Perfect.

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A pile of people jump out of this pickup truck then jump on the back of waiting moto conchos, like a well choreographed ballet.

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I've stopped here in the past. Fresh cut fruit with a stick and strong DR coffee. Stops like this are often the highlight of my day,

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Perfect road food.

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My wife's family is from about 400 meters from the woman selling garlic.
 

cavebiker

Have a dream, live it. Set a goal, achieve it.
My wife's family is from about 400 meters from the woman selling garlic.
Nice, what a beautiful area to be from.

OK, it’s about to get interesting…
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Taking the rough back road towards Southern DR and the Barahona coast. Beautiful!

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The hills are alive with the sound of music. La lalala...

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My time machine...

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Valle Nuevo National Park entrance.

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The road is knurly and fun, great stuff.

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Park camping area. A good place for a chill.

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Hold on ---->
 

cavebiker

Have a dream, live it. Set a goal, achieve it.
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Checking to make sure all is OK. All good.

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The road is mostly in good shape. A couple times I feel a weird sensation with the front tire, like the front wheel is sliding on ice. Fine powder sand on mostly hard pack. Weird!

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Riding through various climate zones I pass areas where long moss is hanging from the trees, cool...

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Cruising along I apply too much front break just before a hidden gully. I went straight down in an instant after the front tire locked and the steering cocked and dug into the gully. Dead stop and down I go. My head is the first thing that hits, OUCH!

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I believe my new Biltwell helmet saved my life. At least it saved my face. I may have a broken jaw or cheek but nothing serious I hope. My knee hurts like H, my shoulder and arm to. Everything is still working including the bike, so again I come out lucky. Whoosh! This will NOT happen again...

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I lay in the grass in the shade until I know I am not going to pass out or something. I saw stars and for sure had my bell rung. In todays sports world they call this a mild concussion. I'm hoping it's mild anyway.

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I ride on, all good...

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No more front brake today!

Where am I? What am I doing? .......