House maintenance technical questions (solar, water pump, etc.)

[Man?el]

Hello wonderful DR fans,

First questions on solar 16 panel + 5kW inverser.
- Sending back production, but still consuming, my production is low like 2-3kw per day even then...
- Without consuming I send back about 12kw per day

I consume about 26kw per day so in theory should bring down bill from 800 to 400 roughly but only get 100ish kw discount so still over 700... For fall months at least.

Second -water pump: smaller tank 25psi, 1/2hp jet pump, 20-40psi switch, cistern + super small (horizontal) tank, 30-60psi switch and well pump.

Changed the cistern switch to 25-45psi. The pump takes less than a minute to raise pressure. To lower frequency of water pump on-off cycles, should I increase range to 25-55?

The well pump cycles between 30-60, it feels too strong. Well pressure is higher than cistern because the well is deeper? What when I use the house pump to pull from well instead of cistern. I had the impression the pump worked harder longer when off the well than the cistern.

It seems that setting a vertical tank horizontally shortens its life. But can a horizontal tank be set up vertically without issues?

House has no ground, want to add it at least on sensitive elements, appliances, etc. And install a new ground rod. Why isn't this seem to be off importance here? It seems easier to diagnose problems and helps with the shock from computers, washing machine, etc.

EDIT: water softener, Google suggest filling the tank until the salt is higher than water level. When the water shows up, add more salt. Problem my water level is super high?

Also, is one bag a month something that makes sense. Finally, the water seems just as hard as toilets are still pretty bad. Any maintenance required on the system?

Thanks all, maybe we can regroup house maintenance questions here. So long!

 

[ese tipo]

Man?el I'll try to take a bite at your post even thought'm somewhat confused with your numbers.You mention a 2-3 Kw production but yet you are returning 12 kw back to the grid I don't see how that could be please explain. You have 16 panels lets assume they are on the low end of 100 watts each that should be 1600 watts on a sunny and clear day,lets also assume that you have (again on a good day ) 4-5hrs of insolation than you should be producing 4.8kw under ideal conditions if you are looking to increase production some simple steps 1) shading ( does your array have any trees building or obstruction limiting direct sunlight?) if so trimming branches and possibly adding optimizers (essentially isolating whatever panels are shading and keeping those that aren't at max power) 2) what type of charge controller are you using is it PWM or MPPT? the latter being the more efficient choice sometimes up to 30-40 more power production compared to PWM.

As far as grounding your system I assume you mean having a ground wire at every receptacle and switch and lighting outlet, if that is the case then wise decision on your part having a ground wire at every outlet not just one's you think are essential is common sense and required by code here in the states so I assume that may be the case there as well.Some very smart folks on this site have recommended surge protection in many posts I suggest you search those conversations.


As far as ground rods go,meh! ground rods here in the states are typically a supplemental grounding source secondary to a cold water pipe and or building steel that is a low resistance path for short circuit currents and or stray voltages.Here in the states an effectively bonded system relies mainly on having your "ground" wires bonded to the grounded conductor "neutral wire" at you service pane that way fault current goes all the way back to the pole transformer creating enough heat so as to make your breakers or fuses trip.Adding GFCI and AFCI outlets or breakers would also make for a much safer installation as well (though can get pricey)The most important thing you could ever do of course is either consult with or hire a local pro there.I know from the conversations I've had with craftspeople in the island there are some very sharp folks there who I would whole heartedly trust stringing wire.On the flip side there are also some who I wouldn't let wire my Christmas tree.Good luck

 

[Man?el]

Thanks a lot.

If I'm not consuming anything the whole production goes back to the grid which is about 12-13kw right now. If I'm running things then only 2-3kw are returned. However, my daily consumption is still 26-28kw.
So instead of getting 27 - 12.5, I get 27 - 2.5!
Also, it appears that some days nothing is sent at all even if I don't consume anything.
I'm deducting all of this monitoring my meter and teleconsumo online as well as the monthly bill and discount numbers,

Yes, having to run a ground wire to each receptacle. At the main panel, connect the grounds to the neutral bar and then out to the grounding rod. Now I want to make sure that my main panel is my main panel and that there's not anything going on between the panel and the "calle". With the solar panels installed, I may already have some sort of grounding connection that I can use. I will check all of this with a solar company.

It sure be nice to have GFI outlets at least in the bath, kitchen, laundry room etc. The number of times that I walk bare(wet)foot in the 220 water pumps' room....

I've had many plumbers look at my system and got about as many answers !!!
It feels like, in the end, the owner is really the only one who cares

 

[Man?el]

In regards to the panels actually I found a trick. I can measure a day without panels and write down the consumption.

Then, turn the panels on and compare. If all goes well my consumption should be very close to what it was without minus panel production. If it's not the case then there's a loss somewhere.

The new pressure switch was kicking on too early, I've had it setup at 26-46 pretty much and it makes the pump last a little longer to build up pressure. Should be good now. Still I wonder whether range could be increased.

 

[reilleyp]

Hello wonderful DR fans,

First questions on solar 16 panel + 5kW inverser.
- Sending back production, but still consuming, my production is low like 2-3kw per day even then...
- Without consuming I send back about 12kw per day

I consume about 26kw per day so in theory should bring down bill from 800 to 400 roughly but only get 100ish kw discount so still over 700... For fall months at least.

Second -water pump: smaller tank 25psi, 1/2hp jet pump, 20-40psi switch, cistern + super small (horizontal) tank, 30-60psi switch and well pump.

Changed the cistern switch to 25-45psi. The pump takes less than a minute to raise pressure. To lower frequency of water pump on-off cycles, should I increase range to 25-55?

The well pump cycles between 30-60, it feels too strong. Well pressure is higher than cistern because the well is deeper? What when I use the house pump to pull from well instead of cistern. I had the impression the pump worked harder longer when off the well than the cistern.

It seems that setting a vertical tank horizontally shortens its life. But can a horizontal tank be set up vertically without issues?

House has no ground, want to add it at least on sensitive elements, appliances, etc. And install a new ground rod. Why isn't this seem to be off importance here? It seems easier to diagnose problems and helps with the shock from computers, washing machine, etc.

EDIT: water softener, Google suggest filling the tank until the salt is higher than water level. When the water shows up, add more salt. Problem my water level is super high?

Also, is one bag a month something that makes sense. Finally, the water seems just as hard as toilets are still pretty bad. Any maintenance required on the system?

Thanks all, maybe we can regroup house maintenance questions here. So long!

How many watts are each of your panels? Does your inverter show the current power in Watts, and your day's production in Kwh? You well situation is confusing. You probably have one pump in the well and one pump in the cistern. Your well pump will most likely be larger and consume more than your cistern, so you would want to top off the cistern during the day when the sun is out. Your pressure tank is a different subject. Inside is a bladder, and if the manufacturer says it should be vertical, I would not lay it down. You could change the pressure to 20-60 if the manufacturer allows it and if you are able to change the high low settings to that range. It will just mean that your cistern pump will run less and the whiners in the house will complain more often about low water pressure.

 

[Man?el]

How many watts are each of your panels? Does your inverter show the current power in Watts, and your day's production in Kwh? You well situation is confusing. You probably have one pump in the well and one pump in the cistern. Your well pump will most likely be larger and consume more than your cistern, so you would want to top off the cistern during the day when the sun is out. Your pressure tank is a different subject. Inside is a bladder, and if the manufacturer says it should be vertical, I would not lay it down. You could change the pressure to 20-60 if the manufacturer allows it and if you are able to change the high low settings to that range. It will just mean that your cistern pump will run less and the whiners in the house will complain more often about low water pressure.

The inverter shows 11-13kw right now each day and matches edenorte data when I'm not consuming anything just producing.
On a side note, I ran into this post mentioning a north orientation (https://dr1.com/forums/threads/suns-angle-in-the-dr.7876/) and this site: https://sun-direction.com/city/20575,puerto-plata/

The well pump is 3/4hp, the cistern pump 1/2hp. The well pump has a tiny HORIZONTAL yet vertically-mounted tank. The well pump is just to water the lawn and wash the car. Yes it saves on water but it also consumes more electricity... I'd rather just switch the cistern pump to well instead!

20-60 wow! The switch says max 220psi (yes!), my plumbing I'm not sure... ! I lowered the well pressure because I thought 60 was crazy, it's firefighter hose type of pressure. I think the switch is max 30psi range. So 25-55 or maybe less like 22-52 then I need to let some air out of the tank. My 1/2hp pump is a beast bigger than the 3/4hp one actually. Just want to make sure I don't stress it.

 

[Man?el]

Alright, a few updates.

1. Solar. It seems that the system is working normally. It's just that when I consume power part of what the panels produce is used so less is sent back to the p)lgrid. And when I don't consume anything all is sent back.

2. Pressure switch. It seems that my pressure switch only has a 20psi range so I can do 27-47. I get a little better pressure. When I tighten the range the whole spring seems to turn and worse it ends up dropping to 40.

3. Other matters still open

 

[JD Jones]

Alright, a few updates.

1. Solar. It seems that the system is working normally. It's just that when I consume power part of what the panels produce is used so less is sent back to the p)lgrid. And when I don't consume anything all is sent back.

2. Pressure switch. It seems that my pressure switch only has a 20psi range so I can do 27-47. I get a little better pressure. When I tighten the range the whole spring seems to turn and worse it ends up dropping to 40.

3. Other matters still open

Is your switch one of those with a grey plastic cap held on by a chrome nut with two springs inside like this?

 

[Man?el]

Is your switch one of those with a grey plastic cap held on by a chrome nut with two springs inside like this?

Exactly. I should get more than 20psi range. One screw raises or lowers both cut on cut off pressure and the range one only touches the cutoff.

 

[Cdn_Gringo]

2. Pressure switch. It seems that my pressure switch only has a 20psi range so I can do 27-47. I get a little better pressure. When I tighten the range the whole spring seems to turn and worse it ends up dropping to 40.

Most pressure switches that get installed to control pressure pumps only have a 20lb range. A bigger holding tank can reduce the number of times the pump has to come on. It is also important to replenish the air inside the pressure tank that that seeps out with use. Not enough air space and the pump can't produce the correct pressure inside the tank and will come on more frequently for longer periods. Be careful as dialing up the pressure too much or suddenly. Older water lines connected to faucets/toilets can burst if the pressure goes up too much.

 

[JD Jones]

Most pressure switches that get installed to control pressure pumps only have a 20lb range. A bigger holding tank can reduce the number of times the pump has to come on. It is also important to replenish the air inside the pressure tank that that seeps out with use. Not enough air space and the pump can't produce the correct pressure inside the tank and will come on more frequently for longer periods. Be careful as dialing up the pressure too much or suddenly. Older water lines connected to faucets/toilets can burst if the pressure goes up too much.

Or better yet, get a tank with a diaphragm.

 

[Man?el]

That's it, a 20lb range, can only reduce it... darn I should have bought a 30-50 model which wider range maybe like this one instead:

GRANBY PRESSURE SWITCH
Domestic duty, two pole pressure switch for home water systems, connection.
1/4 I.P.T. pressure range cutout 20-80 lbs. Differential 10 lb.-30 lb.

Yes a bigger tank. I have a Well X Trol tank now.
And yes to maintaining pressure for sure (those things one wouldn't think about keeping an eye on...).