Choosing a construction material

Rick Snyder

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Nov 19, 2003
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In the construction of a structure you do in fact have many options available to you in the material used. If you are the type of person whereas money is no object to you then all this plays no importance in the whole scheme of things. If, on the other hand, money is a major obstacle then you are limited to the materials that are available to you. Regardless as to whether you are rich, poor or in the middle you will want to use material that has a decent lifecycle and therefore last a long time and is safe for your family.

Living here in the DR we have a number of things that must be taken into account when deciding on a building material. Because of our heat, humidity and yearly rainfall we are susceptible to things such as Brown-rot and white rot fungi, mildew as well as subterranean termites to include Formosan termites, Drywood termites, Lyctid beetles and Bostrichid beetles. Storm damage protection as well as fire resistance and air tightness when the house is battered up to withstand a storm should be taken into consideration when thinking about a dwelling for your family.

Because of those aforementioned items the use of wood for construction purposes should be kept at the lowest minimum possible. It has been said that there are some woods that are resistant to such things as termites and mildew but my research shows that there are 4 that fit this category and they are Greenheart, Jarrah, Lapacho, and Brazilian rosewood. Even then the experts say that due to its variable and inconsistent nature of natural durability no specific recommendation for exposure can be applied even to woods with reputations for durability. There is the possible use of treated lumber but because of the chemicals used in its treatment you risk toxic fumes. Wood treated with preservatives that are oil based is messy, non-paintable and the oily residues from them can contaminate water and fumes can injure plants. Note that fungus and mildew contribute to health aliments including chronic fatigue, asthma and throat infections.

Block and cement on the other hand is resistant to fungus, mildew, insects, fire, provides air tightness, storm damage and if sealed provides protection from water and moisture penetration.

Building with masonry is a timeless art form that goes back to the great Egyptian pyramids and they are still standing.

In another thread Chris mentioned the use of clay and rocks as construction materials that could be used and this is true as it is another form of masonry and has all the advantages that blocks and cement have. I?m partial to rocks as they are very ornamental when used in construction but the problem lies in their availability and transport.

When building a house you should take into account the availability of trees nearby or the planting of same as they can offer protection from the overhead sun. The direction your house faces so that you can use the local breezes for maximum ventilation and cooling. The possibility of extending the eves on the sides of the house, those that get the most sun, so that you have added protection for the windows on those sides.
Those are my thoughts on the subject.

Rick
 
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gary short

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Good post Rick. I'm more and more inclined to build with bricks and mortar or river rock, if that can be had. I would like however to frame windows and doors with wood. Everytime I see a fallen palm I envision milling it for door frames etc.
 

Chris

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Oct 21, 2002
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I don't know too much about wood - all I know is that there is a whole area of working with wood that is not apparent to the normal Westerner. I'm only beginning to learn now. "In Japan, more than 30 wooden buildings have been preserved for more than one thousand years." and "...wood different in growth, even the same species, will be different in physical properties, and distort differently, which results in a building defect"

This is an interesting and very different perspective and very 'hot' at the moment in the sustainable building movement. http://dougukan.jp/eng/bunka-e/B11e.html.

These fellows do not recycle, they build with zero waste for many many years - a house built with acceptable sustainable methods, is expected to last at least 300 years.
 
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gary short

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At the local wood store they sell 4 x 4 cants of "palm wood" it's got a green hue to it, very exotic. I've never seen anything like it mind you I come from the land of spruce and cedar.
 

Rick Snyder

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Nov 19, 2003
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Don’t get me wrong wood is a great thing to build with but it makes all the difference in the location that you use it. Wood contains cellulous which is the food of the termite. Wood needs to be above 28% moisture content (MC) to be initially infected with fungi (rot). Since all lumber is above 28% MC at some point in its life, all lumber is infected. When the MC of wood drops below 22% the rot fungi goes dormant. It’s harmless, but is will be reactivated when the MC rises above 22% and the temperature is above 50%F. Lumber sold in a store is usually kept at this 22% or below MC but not always. A relative humidity of 75% will give you about a 14% MC and a 90% relative humidity will give about a 20% MC. With those numbers all you need is I slight leak and that MC within the wood will then be above that 20% and rotting can set in. Wood needs 4 things to decay: water, oxygen, food (wood) and favorable temperature of 40 to 105F. Wood can be too wet to decay. Waterlogged wood will not allow oxygen in to support the growth of fungi. Marine pilings kept fully submerged may never rot. And wood can be too dry to decay. Keep wood below 22% MC and you are usually in good shape. Of course you can always kill the fungi with a chemical treatment.

Rick
 

kfrancis

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Jan 8, 2002
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rockharddesigns.com
Observation from the Frontier: Concrete Research

Try this on for size. Not all the pieces in place just yet but this is where we are going along the construction material lines for the future here on the Frontier. Have some "concrete" Techno heavyweights involved with LCI.

Now, let me say right up front I am not one of them. I do the " logistical need " side of the problem others arrive at the sloution.

Simple terms:

Affordable, Lightweight, Composite Concrete Wall Panel System

Ideal for low-rise residential and / or commerical construction

Has to be able to be used as interior and exterior load bearing and non-load bearing walls

Have a hollow core and be tongue and grooved.

Panel specs: 8' to 14' long, by 2' wide by 3"-5" thick.

Various fibers added to the concrete recipe allows the panel to be nalled, screwed, bolted and circular cut.

Typical 1400 sq ft home I am told would require 145 panels for exterior and interior walls. Using RD input we figure a crew of five ( 5 ) unskilled workers, plus a lead, can install 145 panels in 2-3 days.

Techno guys show a unified wall system with solid concrete windows and door lintels.

But I like one of my friend's formulas for Exterior Wall Blocks, they can be for construction up to six ( 6 ) stories. Blocks can measure up to 6' long, up to 15" high and be up to 16" wide. Have a picture of him holding a 2'x1'x1' composition poly-cement block over his head with one arm.

kFrancisco de Cabral
 

macocael

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Aug 3, 2004
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Hmmmm, OK but Rick are sure that those really big heavy planks of palmwood dont also meet some of your requirements. we have a house made out of such planks across the way from the main house, and while I admit that the shack is a tumbledown looking sort of structure, the planks are solid as stone and heavy, and after all these years have withstood the heavy rains of the Cibao and the termites too. I was thinking of using these planks to create the roof of our main house after I put the second level up (using block and cement). I am still just researching the idea, but it seems doable and would look awfully nice as well as being, well, different. I wouldnt use it for the walls, just the roof. Btw, I have seen a house made of such wood in Gurabo, and it was really a nicely built house.

Also I am getting more and more interested in the use of adobe bricks instead of block and cement, but maybe that is too costly. Block and cement do have the advantage of being quite cheap and quite easy to work with. When we began remodeling our porch on the main house I pitched right in and learned the basics pretty quickly. Recently we finished construction of my brother in law's house and it took us exactly two weeks! Still lots to do, but the roof is up and the house's infrastructure is all in place. Not bad.
 

Mirador

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macocael said:
Hmmmm, OK but Rick are sure that those really big heavy planks of palmwood dont also meet some of your requirements. we have a house made out of such planks across the way from the main house, and while I admit that the shack is a tumbledown looking sort of structure, the planks are solid as stone and heavy, and after all these years have withstood the heavy rains of the Cibao and the termites too. I was thinking of using these planks to create the roof of our main house after I put the second level up (using block and cement). I am still just researching the idea, but it seems doable and would look awfully nice as well as being, well, different. I wouldnt use it for the walls, just the roof. Btw, I have seen a house made of such wood in Gurabo, and it was really a nicely built house.

Also I am getting more and more interested in the use of adobe bricks instead of block and cement, but maybe that is too costly. Block and cement do have the advantage of being quite cheap and quite easy to work with. When we began remodeling our porch on the main house I pitched right in and learned the basics pretty quickly. Recently we finished construction of my brother in law's house and it took us exactly two weeks! Still lots to do, but the roof is up and the house's infrastructure is all in place. Not bad.


Maco, the materials you are referring to go back to the Taino. In the South (Azua and beyond) these materials are still in use. My own hut north of Azua was designed and built under strict Taino architectural specs (almost ;-). Keep in mind that the materials you are suggesting are for dry (low precipitation) climates. Palm thatching is not good for climates with heavy precipitation, unless of course you have a stove inside that dries the roof, and the smoke keeps the insects away...

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gary short

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kfrancis are these panels being manufactured and marketed.
 

Rick Snyder

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Nov 19, 2003
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Macocael,
I must interject at this point that I am also speaking from a biased position. This is due to my son having been born with asthma and even with the smaller amount of wood I have in the construction of my house fungi is present. This fungi at times is not apparent but does cause problems for my son. I try to stay on top of it but it's a never ending battle due to the humidity here. Even in a healthy state it isn't recommended a item to always be breathing into your lungs. I have also noticed a number of Dominicans over the years that live in wooden structures having respiratory problems. I am not saying it is fungi connected but the possibility is there.

Rick
 
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Rick Snyder

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Nov 19, 2003
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Gary,
Being the idiot that I sometime am I did nothing for the beams and rafters. All other woods are coated with paint or shellac. I periodically spray the mildew and fungi when I see it. Let me also mention that wood out in the sun will get below that 22% MC and usually the water from rain will be dried out to not afford the fungi to stay active. The problem is within the house that doesn't get direct sunlight. I have a corrugated metal roof and used the nails that are made for securing them to the rafters but even then there are times when some moisture will enter where these nails are and therefore possibly bring that MC above 22%.

Rick

Rick
 
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gary short

Guest
Rick for years I owned wooden boats because I am truly an idiot. The biggest challenge was keeping the fresh water out. Water ingress was usually caused by deck fastenings not being sealed. Sounds like your situation is similar. Rot and mildew happen almost right away.
 

macocael

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Good points Rick. well I have to admit that the hot and wet climate of the area around Sonador does not agree with my lungs either, and frankly I would prefer to move to the area where Mirador has his (beautiful!) homes. I feel very at home in the South, y nunca hago mala cara! ;) If you havent seen the photos of the place Mirador is referring to, you are missing something. If and when I ever get a farm here, I would like to have guest houses built along the same lines.

However, it is true that the thatch construction wouldnt work too well in Sonador with all the rains. And I admit the wood could be a problem; I have to investigate further. Or move the family to a different area!

As for treating or coating the wood, I have a friend in the colonial zone who is treating his wood with a special oil -- I can find out the details if you like. It sounds like some pretty good stuff.
 

kfrancis

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Jan 8, 2002
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Gary,

All our concrete work is in development and various stages of testing and certification. Equipment designed, tested and built and we are working out just how we plan to use the expertise to further development plans here.

Area is already a significant concrete block exporter thoughout the Caribbean with numerous small manufactures locally, one of which is within my family.

Will have more at a later date.

kF
 

Mirador

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Apr 15, 2004
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macocael said:
... As for treating or coating the wood, I have a friend in the colonial zone who is treating his wood with a special oil -- I can find out the details if you like. It sounds like some pretty good stuff.


Macocael, about half a kilometer (lineal) from my place there are bubbling pools of hydrocarbon, and the campesinos use it, among other things, to treat wood against carcoma... By the way, you are more than welcome to visit my compound. Just give me a call beforehand, and if I'm not there, I will phone my caretaker, Rafa, so he'd be expecting you...

-
 

Texas Bill

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Feb 11, 2003
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kfrancis said:
Try this on for size. Not all the pieces in place just yet but this is where we are going along the construction material lines for the future here on the Frontier. Have some "concrete" Techno heavyweights involved with LCI.

Now, let me say right up front I am not one of them. I do the " logistical need " side of the problem others arrive at the sloution.

Simple terms:

Affordable, Lightweight, Composite Concrete Wall Panel System

Ideal for low-rise residential and / or commerical construction

Has to be able to be used as interior and exterior load bearing and non-load bearing walls

Have a hollow core and be tongue and grooved.

Panel specs: 8' to 14' long, by 2' wide by 3"-5" thick.

Various fibers added to the concrete recipe allows the panel to be nalled, screwed, bolted and circular cut.

Typical 1400 sq ft home I am told would require 145 panels for exterior and interior walls. Using RD input we figure a crew of five ( 5 ) unskilled workers, plus a lead, can install 145 panels in 2-3 days.

Techno guys show a unified wall system with solid concrete windows and door lintels.

But I like one of my friend's formulas for Exterior Wall Blocks, they can be for construction up to six ( 6 ) stories. Blocks can measure up to 6' long, up to 15" high and be up to 16" wide. Have a picture of him holding a 2'x1'x1' composition poly-cement block over his head with one arm.

kFrancisco de Cabral

kFrancisco;

Have your people addressed the "stressed concrete" aspects of the material presented.
For instance, to be used as first-floor ceilings/second-floor floors and flat-roof applications exceeding the normal 12 foot span now used in construction without support beams underlying, providing for a more "open" room construction.
It sounds like you and your collegues have stumbled on a very significant "new" method of construction that will eventually supplant existing "convential" methods.
The use of pre-fabricated units of various diminsions would certainly revolutionize construction in the DR as well as the rest of the Caribbean.
Have you run cost analysis on the various diminsions yet? I'd be VERY interested since I'm planning on building a rather large house when the appropriate land is acquired.

PM me on this, if you will
Or, email me at billyadams@texasbill.com


Texas Bill
 

macocael

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macocael said:
Very kind of you Macocael. next time I head south, I will look you up (or Rafa).

Now that is what you call a real Freudian slip! Referring to myself instead of Mirador, how strange!.

Anyway Mirador, what I meant to say was very kind of you, Mirador!. And I mean that.