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Thread: Advice on cement roof coating

  1. #1
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    Default Advice on cement roof coating

    I used a Lanco product last time. It seems ok, no ceiling or roof issues. But as this is an extremely important part of keeping rain out of the house I was wondering what the best product might be thats avaliable here in POP. thanks Phil

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    I hear that this is the best...

    The product is called ICOPER and Ocho A in Santiago is selling it.

    You need to do a base coat first with a 50/50 dilution and follow with a second coat as is. The paint is very viscous but you can apply it
    with a roller with a very short nip. For sharp angles use a brush.

    Cost is about 4,500 peso.

    You can get more information by going to www.icobit.com..


    Hope this helps,

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    Just a note to say that for those still building, PREVENTION is the best cure.

    Dominicans like to pour the roof then walk away from it for at least a week.
    This is wrong.

    The fresh concrete roof should be kept moist for at least 7 days, this will add to the strength and the waterproofing of the concrete.

    ONCE the concrete dries inside, no amount of watering will restart the curing process !!!!!

    I learned this the hard way down here that the engineers did not know what they were doing, but I advised my neighbor when he later built his home, and he has no filtration problems.


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    If the roof is untreated cement, meaning there is no paint or other product, covering the surface, then there is a reasonable and cheap method of waterproof the surface. Use white cement. Mix the cement with water to form a viscous liquid that can be applied by brush, usually an old broom, or you can use a paint roller. Two bags of white cement is enough to cover a hundred square meter surface.

    PJT has used this method to seal his roof and it has worked; six years, no fail. PJT recently finished resurfacing the roof using the same method as a preventative maintenace.

    This method was recommended by the contractor who constructed the building and it has served well. He says it works so well because the fine white cement particles seal the cracks and pores of the cement roof surface. It continues to be self sealing over time. It is sort of the same principle as when rain debris clogs a storm basin to the point the runoff can no longer drain through the opening.

    Good Luck and Regards,
    PJT

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    Don't waste your money and your time using paints or other products I did every thing on my roof and finaly I got the problem solve when installed a "lona asfaltica".
    Reason in DR we have hundreds of small quakes every year and the flexibility of the lona don't let it break.
    It is a little bit expensive but worthy and need maintenance so this way you keep the twenty years guaranty.

    JJ

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    Default Icoper

    Now that's a great looking product.

    Reinforced with fiberglass mats.

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by JDJones View Post
    I used the same stuff. Lanco has two or three different types of sealer. We used the best grade they have, which I think is called Ultraseal.

    The trick with sealing the roof effectively with Lanco or any other sealing product is to make sure the surface is clean and dry.

    We pressured cleaned our entire roof, which took us about 3 days due to the size, then let it dry for a week before applying the sealer.
    Lanco now has a new product replacing Ultraseal as the top of the line. It is Urethanizer.

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    Lightbulb my solution

    I used the Lanco stuff, it failed badly and quickly. The only way (other than tar paper) is epoxy paint. The only requirement is that the roof is sound without moving cracks. I have experience with roofs that were previously coated with membranes and sealers, etc. all failed.
    Try the 2 part epoxy sold here and wear disposable plastic gloves... couse the pait does not come off easily.
    Its a fun job
    carib

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    Quote Originally Posted by carib View Post
    I used the Lanco stuff, it failed badly and quickly. The only way (other than tar paper) is epoxy paint. The only requirement is that the roof is sound without moving cracks. I have experience with roofs that were previously coated with membranes and sealers, etc. all failed.
    Try the 2 part epoxy sold here and wear disposable plastic gloves... couse the pait does not come off easily.
    Its a fun job
    carib
    How is it that others had success with Lanco, and you didn't. Perhaps your preparation was wrong.

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    There have been a lot of very good answers in my opinion based on my experiences and basic construction principles.


    Quote Originally Posted by SantiagoDR View Post
    Just a note to say that for those still building, PREVENTION is the best cure.

    Dominicans like to pour the roof then walk away from it for at least a week.
    This is wrong.

    The fresh concrete roof should be kept moist for at least 7 days, this will add to the strength and the waterproofing of the concrete....
    Absolutely true!
    And it does not just apply to roofs but also to slabs and foundations.
    Most fail to understand that concrete does NOT dry to harden, as above poster formulates it, it CURES. H2O becomes part of the chemical reaction, in other words it is not supposed to evaporate, the water mixed in turns into part of the HARD concrete.
    Horizontal surfaces, especially those exposed to the sun and thus experiencing higher evaporation need additional water "sprinkling". Make sure you DO NOT HOSE down the sand and cement thou! SPRINKLE gently and often. Some also like to cover poured surfaces to limit evaporation.
    Both, the watering and covering also limits the formation of fissures due to "drying" during the curing process (especially undesirable in roofs).

    Quote Originally Posted by PJT View Post
    If the roof is untreated cement, meaning there is no paint or other product, covering the surface, then there is a reasonable and cheap method of waterproof the surface. Use white cement. Mix the cement with water to form a viscous liquid that can be applied by brush, usually an old broom, or you can use a paint roller.
    True too. White cement paste (without adding any sand) is being used to waterproof pools too (when applying tiles). It helps to use an elastomere liquid mixed in or entirely replacing the water (plastic-cement) for longevity, flexibility and resistance to water.
    HOWEVER, the wash down effect of rain and weather in general on roofs will deteriorate such a finish eventually.
    On the other hand, the whitish color of such a roof will keep the inside of a home noticeably cooler than a dark gray or red roof.

    Quote Originally Posted by bachata View Post
    Don't waste your money and your time using paints or other products I did every thing on my roof and finaly I got the problem solve when installed a "lona asfaltica".
    Reason in DR we have hundreds of small quakes every year and the flexibility of the lona don't let it break.
    It is a little bit expensive but worthy and need maintenance so this way you keep the twenty years guaranty.

    JJ
    Roofing tar mats (lona asfaltica) is the Cadillac of roof sealing, WHEN installed PROPERLY. The material has to be installed so it firmly bonds with the concrete and all seals heat treated hermetically or moisture pockets will form beneath it and find their only way "out" inwards thru the roof.
    Some tar mats have an outer aluminum covering, which blocks off heat and enhances the longevity of the product many fold! You will commonly find these installed on flat roofs or commercial real estate. One "land mark" roof which has "recently" (about a year or so ago) been redone after several attempts to fix issues using "tigueretech" is the Scottia Bank building on the intersection of Churchill and 27 de Febrero in Santo Domingo, if my memory serves my right. They finally did a good job.

    Quote Originally Posted by gmiller261 View Post
    Now that's a great looking product.

    Reinforced with fiberglass mats.

    Thanks
    Actually, it would seem that it is reinforced with loose fibers only (not mats). That's good. I however prefer to use the "normal" stuff but apply a synthetic mesh mat in between coats. Most of the sealer will become "one" with the mat, so that if MINOR/normal cracks or fissures occur in the concrete underneath, the finish will less likely crack along with it.

    Quote Originally Posted by JDJones View Post
    I used the same stuff. Lanco has two or three different types of sealer. We used the best grade they have, which I think is called Ultraseal.

    The trick with sealing the roof effectively with Lanco or any other sealing product is to make sure the surface is clean and dry.

    We pressured cleaned our entire roof, which took us about 3 days due to the size, then let it dry for a week before applying the sealer.
    Also keep in mind that as funny as it may sound, most of these products are WATER based! Until they are dried or cured out, water (RAIN) will wash it down (I had that happen once). Hint: If you still have the option to, do NOT finish (paint) your walls before you have successfully treated your roofs (dried finish). Interestingly enough, while rain will wash down yet un-dried roof sealants, for whatever reason, it WILL STICK all over the walls bellow and NOT wash away from those.

    In general, I might add that while it is common around here to see roofs declared finished after such a sealant has been applied, these products are usually meant to end up covered with some kind of hard roof finish, like tiles or metal. Life span, when exposed directly to the "elements" of nature will be far less than usually advertised by the manufacturer.

    ... J-D.

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