Curmudgeonly Report
Yesterday we flew from POP to Barahona, drove to Enriquillo, took a couple of swims in the natural spring pools (balnearios), very refreshing, saw a few iguanas at Enriquillo, no flamingos and no alligators. Climbed a high ridge, promises from SECTUR, to see Taino caves, carvings, but most all totally bogus. I understood the locals trap the flamingos and sell them to the highest bidder.
The boats from the lakeside to the island are about RD$3,500 per person. Outrageous. They had their normal excuses. We didn't go in a boat, it wasn't worth it, believe me. Back to Barahona, eventually. Had lunch by the Malecon, very nice, then flew over Bahia de las Aguilas, to Pedernales, over Enriquillo, the other little lake, the mine in Barahona, an airstrip there (excellent condition), very nice one, some beautiful mesas where it looks like the sea once arrived many centuries ago. Lots of little streams and rivers feeding into 1 or 2 major rivers, but not so major rivers after all. I understand better why the whole area floods in heavy rains, it floods huge areas that are sea level, the lakes and rivers rise, there is no place else for it to go. The old sugar cane fields stretch forever. For that, you see lots of Haitian bateys, lots of poor folks. The feudal system lives. It is the poorest part of the country and I saw why. To drive would have been about 10 hours. We saw the trains from the sugar plantations originally built in 1922, the barrios named Batey #1-#6, then beyond. Was like a step back in time. Beautiful area, virgin in many places, beaches stretch for miles without one single shack, colmado or banca. I've never seen anyplace else in the country that, however remote, didn't have those two things.
Overall, it was impressive for it's dry, dilapidated, virgin uniqueness. I saw clearly why the drug drops happen there, as it is wide open territory, remote, no radar. We did a low fly-over near Azua, innocently, and sure enough, as I looked on, a small fishing boat came out from shore, immediately, hopeful, that this solo aircraft would be the one. An eye opener, but also not a surprise. It was a long, lovely day, really unique and educational. It is not even summer yet, and it is a very hot, dry area. Summers there must be brutal, but fortunately there are small large, cool oasis streams from the highlands feeding them. Probably my first and last time there, but definitely a unique area of the island. If one is looking for a remote Caribbean experience, this is it. I didn't get to visit any rivers, water falls, rafting or other unique areas offered, but I'm optimistic they are worthy of a visit.
This area has desert, mountains, streams, two lakes, virgin beaches, natural ponds, Taino history and history of economics pre-Trujlilo and up to today.
And the only actual train tracks I've actually seen functional in this country.
Should this be in Trip Report? Where ever, fine with me.