MG and Miss Thing-nine days in June

In an effort to spare the reader I am breaking this report up by day. Enjoy the first day of our trip.

As usual if you have questions fire away.

I will post the whole report on my blog once I attach pictures.

June 20

We left Maine very early this morning. Shanna drove us to the 3 15 am express bus and we made it to Boston Logan by 5 am. The lines at American Airlines were very long and people were generally unhappy because some people were getting bumped in line else they miss their flights. So those of us who came early were left to wait while the others were processed.

When we finally made it to check-in the exasperated clerk told me that my ticket was in the name "B----". Well, yes. I nodded. She set about typing furiously and after six or seven minutes she said, "Now, I have changed it to D--- so it matches your name on your passport."

"No, my passport says B----."

"Here, it was amended." She looks at me like I am an idiot.

"I am divorced and it is back to my maiden name, now." I smile at this exasperated lady who thinks I am making her check-in process slow at a time when it needs to be fast.

"Well do you have the divorce papers?" she asks me, as if she were daring me to procure them.

In fact, I did....

This was the first time I have travelled with a minor, and solely in my care. At security, the man waved Ali through and had me back up and go through two more times. Meanwhile Ali is being waved on and sent along on her merry way! I get upset--"That's my kid and she stays with me." Security guy says back: "I thought she was with someone else."

"I don't care. Alison, stay with me."

I am thinking: How can these people catch terrorists if they can't pay attention to who a ten year old belongs to?

Boston-Miami was our longest flight and when we arrived I dutifully checked for bump status. IN the past I have had luck taking a bump and in return getting a voucher for airline travel. Works beautifully if you have a flexible schedule. But no luck this time.

Alison slept the whole way down while I watched green islands rimmed with white beaches float underneath. I have always loved the flight from Miami to any southern destination. It reminds me of the first time I left home. Imagine the first time you see the world from the sky and it is a green and gold sea with little green gems for islands beneath you. You'd be enchanted as I was.

It started to pour when we landed in Santiago. The lobby was chaotic. We bought tourist cards and went through the line. Ali trooped beside me and when we presented our documents (I had a notarized and translated letter at the ready with her dad's signature and copies of his license) the lady asked: "Are you the owner of the child?" I smiled vaguely at her and started talking to Ali in English and she waved us over to the office where they take your picture if you present a birth certificate.

In that office everyone was jovial. I sat Alison down in the chair; the official looked up her number in the computer and said that he still had a valid id from our last visit in November. Have a nice vacation!

Much easier than I imagined. You just never know.

We went out into the massive crowd and I found a driver who took us into the city so we could change money. We went into La Sirena after and went to the cafeteria and ordered plates to go of rice, chicken, pork, plantain and fresh fruit. No beans but we were thrilled with the meal which was under 300 pesos for two full plates plus fruit for dessert plus two beers for me and a juice drink for my darling ten year old.

Now to have our driver find Hillbilly's house. I've been twice now and I am a terrible navigator. However, I did remember a few details (car lot being the most important!) and we found his "hovel" shortly.

(For those of you who do not know Hillbilly has a "bed and breakfast" above his home which is a two bedroom apartment outfitted with air conditioning, kitchen, and dining/sitting room. It is very comfortable and has cable tv. It is also located two blocks from a taxi stand and less than four blocks from anything else you might need. Walking distance to stores, internet, laundry, cafeteria.)

So, the end to a rather long day...Alison turned on the TV and immediately started in with Clifford the Big Red Dog. She ate dinner and watched TV (not our regular routine) and before I could even turn on the laptop she was asking me, or rather telling me, what some of the words meant. She of course was watching in Spanish. It brought back memories of afternoons watching telenovelas and absorbing every word....

Tomorrow we have a plan to walk around the city and explore. Centro Leon and New Horizons School are at the top of our list.

Day 2

Thanks HB...


June 21

Hillbilly scrambles eggs and gives us the best coffee in the country, Cafe Melo, as well as some directions around the city. Ali is delighted by the dogs at HB's hovel and also Tania, the large surly parrot.

So we start...first a brief walk two blocks to the New Horizons School. It is a secured building, two stories, with a basketball court and children's play area in the front.

We are admitted and given a tour by the sweetly shy Lizbeth, who speaks excellent English. We are shown the classrooms and the computer lab (which had a Smart Board!) Also we see the library. The school is clean and the classrooms organized. There are several staff members around getting things organized for the next event at school which I believe is a summer program. There are lots of pictures of the students doing their activities which we enjoy looking at.

It is an accredited school--New England Association of Schools and Colleges. The parent school is in Santo Domingo, goes to high school, and has an excellent reputation. The Santiago extension is growing. Currently the classes go up to sixth but they are adding a grade each year. They are also looking to expand the facility and anticipate a move in the next two years.

Lizbeth asked about our plans and I said that we were thinking of coming in two years. She asked what I would do for work and when I told her my priority was to stay with the children (aka stay at home mom!) she said, "Well, you could work here!"

I decided after we left that I could definitely work in the school based on the environment I had just seen. The bulletin boards showcasing student work were very well done and the bilingual atmosphere was apparent.

We trotted down the block to the Abba school. This school was smaller and less formal--no sign in at the gate and guest pass clipped to me, but two very friendly and busy administrators welcomed us warmly and called for an English speaker. The lady who came to see us, Cesarina, was very friendly. Her English was adequate as she explained a few things about the school. She asked me how to say some things and did not take offense as I corrected her occasionally.

We went into her small classroom and we introduced ourselves to the seven silly students. I say silly but they were your typical seven year olds...smiling, giggling. Alison introduced herself to each one and I spoke with them in Spanish and English. Alison remarked that their handwriting was exemplary for their age!

One thing to know about Abba school is that it is a Christian school. It uses Abeka and Saxon curricula which is exactly what I used for three years when I worked at a Christian school. I was never a huge fan of Abeka but Saxon is very good.

We did not get as extensive a tour of the facility because Cesarina had those seven year olds to teach. However, I always plan on coming back so next trip. I also plan on looking at Santiago Christian School.

Of the two schools Alison liked New Horizons better.

We then took a taxi to Centro Leon. It is a beautiful museum of Dominican Culture. The first exhibit was amazing--a multimedia showcase of the African and indigenous influence on the culture, the flora and fauna and the impact of the conquista on the island. There were fabulous artifacts and well-documented displays.

The second exhibit was Dominican art. It was also impressive. I think the first exhibit was more exciting, however. The gift shop had some lovely Carnaval figures which I purchased for display in my classroom.

Outside the grounds are beautifully kept and we were able to go into La Aurora which is the cigar-making factory. It had such an intense smell that we could not stay too long. I enjoyed watching the masters at work.

There is also a small aviary on the grounds and we stopped and watched the pigeons and ducks for a while.

Then we decided to go to Plaza Centro Internacional. We took a publico for 20 pesos. We wanted to see what movies were playing. I bought some earrings and a belt and inquired after a cell phone. We decided to come back in the evening to watch a movie.

Back home in a taxi (80 pesos). Siesta time!

At 7 we leave for Tu Pizza, a food stand recommendby HB. The pizza is delicious! We stroll down the avenue for several blocks, headed to Plaza Centro again.

I vaguely remember how to get there and flag down a publico. He says we are too close for him to charge us, and drops us off a few blocks from the mall.

We buy tickets to see "Mi amiga es una sirena" or "Aquamarine". It is a movie for junior high kids and Alison loves it. It is in English with titles. The cost is 300 pesos for two tickets.

Midnight and we come home again. Tomorrow: Caribe Tours to Sosua. Not my favorite place by any means but we have some business there and it will be Alison's first real road trip in the country.

Day 3

June 22

Soon we are in Sosua and I have to hustle for a taxi. Quoted 150 pesos to go just over to the Tropix. I haggle my way down to 80 pesos. The taxista laughs at me. He asks me if I am Italian or German. He designates me an honorary Dominican for my haggling skills. I am not impressed by the final price and walk away.

Two seconds later we are on our way for thirty pesos.

We arrive at the foot of the hill that leads to the Tropix and we walk it slowly. There are concho drivers and taxistas and dogs and women and it is loud but that all subsides. We reach the gate and Alison is delighted by the archway of plants that leads into the property.

Our room has a queen and a single bed; a fridge, closet, chairs, and bathroom. Simple, clean, right by the pool.

Dinner at Rocky's. I am in love with Ted. He reminds me of my neighbor growing up.

A phone call home and tragic news. One of my students, my neighbor's son, has drowned while boating.

A short and sorry day for us today.

June 23


A fight in the morning.

It rained in the afternoon and we walked through Sosua in a funk.

When we checked email we learned our beloved cat Squeaky had been hit and killed by a car.

Time to leave Sosua!

June 24

I dicker for a taxi to Cabrera and settle on 1000 pesos for the trip. Not bad for a long drive!

We arrive at the Hadley farm and get a nice tour. It is quite the operation. Woodshop, house under construction, forty head of cattle, and cute rabbits and baby ducks.

Alison can't understand why Hillbilly's chihuaha is named Hulk and Stephen's rottweiler is named Tiny. That's just the way it is! I say to her.

The Hadley kids go to school in Rio San Juan and at ages five and seven are fluent in three languages! English, Spanish, and French.

We get a chance to try out Playa Grande, one of the nicest beaches I have been to. (I still dream of Cayo Sombrero in Venezuela which was like stepping into a postcard.)

Playa Grande is clean, expansive. Not too many people on the beach and friendly servers in numbered shirts. It is both Dominican and orderly if that is possible.

Instead of going all the way to Samana today we decide to stay near Playa Grande and enjoy the atmosphere. Some of the nicest viveros and gardens I have seen, and lovely cattle farms on the coast. We ate good food and received fare prices everywhere.

June 25-27

We catch a ride to Nagua and from there take the bus to Samana City.

Samana City looks different than other places I have been; the wide seaside boulevard is beautiful and there are yachts in the harbor. However, once on the street we are back in the DR. Dicker, dicker, bicker, and dicker. Finally for 400 pesos we get a taxi to Las Galeras.

We pass over hills and into valleys that are in such rough shape...

And we arrive at Guariquen which is situated down a dirt road off the main highway.

The lady who greets us is Laura, who speaks mostly Italian and some Spanish. We understand each other just fine.

Our lodging is a small cabin with double bed, covered with a mosquito net. We have a bath with shower and tiny kitchen, as well as front deck overlooking a valley.

Everywhere there are lizards....and the cabins are all painted in bright colors.

In the main area there are couches, music, a tv, and a kitchen.

We settle in and decide we should go into town. First we gather all our laundry and at the corner of the main road and the dirt road I hand over my bag to a teenage girl who promises me that the clothes will be ready for the next day. I am borrowing Alison's tshirts at this point and I have worn my jeans five times. But this is a travel-light trip and I don't care.

We take a concho, 20 pesos, into Las Galeras, which is a small village with not much going on, but at the end of the road is a beautiful bay and fishing boats and a bar. My kind of town. It reminds me just a little bit of Chichiriviche.

Alison and I find a spot on the beach that we like and set about collecting shells and swimming. We have dinner at the bar and then ride back to Las Mariposas. I fall asleep before she does because I am exhausted.

Day 7

Today we decide to forgo the tours offered by Guariquen's guides, who are Dominicans trained by the organization. The tours range from 35 to 60 dollars, I don't know if that is per person. We head back into Las Galeras and send some emails from a small internet cafe run by an Italian man. Then we dicker for a taxi.

For ten dollars we get a ride to Playa Rincon. Our driver promises to collect us, too.

The ride in is surreal...dirt roads, mud, some paved roads...we pass baby chicks and pigs, dogs, horses, donkeys, small schools, people sleeping in the shade, cows, and the like.

Alison loves riding on motoconchos and she spends the whole trip clutching my hand and saying, Look!

As we arrive at the beach there is a lot of activity. A Colombian film crew is on site. We see a lot of people with walkie talkies and cameras and we also see some very pretty girls in bathing suits looking very put together for the beach.

Our driver takes us to the end of the beach and we rent chairs.

There are several kids playing and only a few other tourists.

We meet some Italians and the Dominican kids immediately take to Alison and her sandcastle building.

The water is amazing--clear, blue, calm. We can go out quite far and it is not too deep. It is very relaxing.

We eat right there on the beach and when our driver arrives after a five hour stay, it hardly seems possible.

A long ride back through the countryside and we collect our laundry. I leave Alison in our cabin while I go to the colmado and buy sandwiches. Then I make some calls home and check on things.

Alison is in a wonderful mood on this day--she really liked the beach. We borrow cards and play kings and take pictures. Later, before we fall asleep, she writes in her journal while I write in mine.

Day 8

Today we decide to leave Las Galeras. We loved Playa Rincon but we don't want to spend too much money on tours and we are running out of cash. There are no banks in Las Galeras and we decide to catch a guagua back to Samana City. The guagua fits 8 and we squeeze in fifteen people. 100 pesos--300 less than our private taxi coming into Las Galeras.

In Samana we are just in time for the bus to Nagua. Ali and I choose seats and settle in.

Soon, Alison gets very carsick. When we finally arrive at the next stop, I rush off the bus looking for anything to clean up with. I get a mop and some newspapers. She feels much better after her brief episode of barfing and many people on the bus don't seem to mind and ask if she is ok. The bus driver doesn't seem to care either. I lay down newspapers after cleaning up as best I can. It is a "mommy moment" for me. Alison cuddles against me for the rest of the trip and I marvel at the ease in which I can now clean up barf.

We arrive, Nagua, and get a taxi to Play Grande where we spend the rest of our day. This beach is absolutely amazing and the waves are not too rough for us. We play hard all afternoon. Before we arrived at the beach I stopped and got takeout, rice, beans, and chicken. We pay 200 pesos for a chair and refreshments and the food was 250--and enough for a family of 4 let alone two skinny chicks.

JUne 28-29

We wake up early and get a taxi to the airport. Surprise, surprise--the flight is TOMORROW, not today. After checking flights and such we realize that we will have to stay another night. Alison is homesick by now and a bit surly. I call her dad and, ever cheerful, he tells her it is raining in Maine and that her brother Tom is doing chores. She perks up just a bit.

Back to Hillbilly's B and B...he had the date right and was expecting us...and we spend the whole afternoon shopping for Spanish materials for my classroom.

One more movie...one more meal...one more Presidente...you know how it is.

The last day we wake at 6, have a delicious breakfast, and head to the airport. We fly standby all day and make it back to Maine by 8 30 in the evening.

We are tan and happy and ready to see our family.

And Alison wants to return, which makes me happy.

A good trip--lots of adventures, lots of Spanish learned, and stories to last us all summer.

Today we are packing for camp--a whole other experience. Pack it in, pack it out--a Maine island summer. The fourth of July looms large--do we have enough fireworks? I think we might.

Back in the DR in November, I calculate!

Thanks for reading!