Dajabon and Haitian market

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lardino

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Hi all ,
I want to have information on Dajabon town .
What is the day for Haitian market ?
What town do you prefer between Dajabon and Jimani ( South west )
What about quality of road 45 between Monte cristi and Dajabon ?
Is it possible to drive to this town from Moncion with a small SUV ?
Thanks for your answers .
Lardino
 
J

jrf

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Jan 9, 2005
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Expect a crazy day and keep your eyes open.
Lots of people and lots to see.
 
H

helpmann

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The Dajabon Open-air Market

I believe the market is open Mondays and Fridays. There's a story below.

-Helpmann :)


The Dajabon Open-air Market: Experiencing the Dominican/Haitian Border Culture.

Spanish and Creole chatter echoes off the tarps that cover Main Street Dajabon. The excitement of market day begins with shrewd Haitian venders bickering over spots to lay down the 100 lb. burlap sacks they carry on their heads. Today's business will determine their family's livelihood for the week. Their day will be full of grimaces and scowls, creating a tough surface to block the mocking they receive from Dominican shoppers and Dominican soldiers. These streets are Dominican, thus all dealings are done on Dominican terms. As the Haitian venders scramble for ground space to lay their blankets, the Dominican venders wheel their permanent stands into reserved positions. Their confident smirks reflect their projected success with Haitian shoppers, as they unload goods not available in Haiti. For the Dominicans the day will consist of ostentatious laughs, loud hugs, exaggerated stories, and shared rum, as they socialize with friends.

The Dajabon Market, which lies a half-mile from the Haitian border, offers a glimpse at a rural community-sustaining market. The economic livelihood of the surrounding area depends greatly on this market. Market day is on Monday and Friday of each week, and persons travel up to 50 miles to buy and sell goods. For most of the venders this is their only income. Likewise, most of the buyers purchase the majority of their food and clothing from the market. This market is virtually unaffected by super stores [stores like Wal-Mart], which are rapidly spreading throughout the Dominican Republic [DR]. The nearest city with a super store is three hours away. Dajabon does have grocery store, but it functions more like a convenience store for non-market days. This market is also unaffected by tourism. Few trinkets and tourist T-shirts are sold; most of the material goods are for everyday use, and give little attention to aesthetics. The market?s most interesting aspect is its glimpse into the current relationship between Haitians and Dominicans. This market is a great example of how the border economies are becoming increasingly interdependent. However a history of prejudice and conflict still shines through their personal interactions. The Dajabon market depicts the tragic effects that result from years of corruption and poverty. For the rustic explorer who wants to view an untainted rural market and is interested in the dramatic history between the DR and Haiti, a trip to Dajabon should be apart of the Dominican tour. An appreciation for arduous adventure, a willingness to openly observe, and basic Spanish skills, are the only requirements for a memorable experience in Dominican/Haitian culture.

There are three modes for entering the Dajabon. The preferred entrance is in a 20-person minibus, which will probably be loaded with at least 30 persons. If "full" capacity is not met, the bus driver will not leave for Dajabon. Instead he will chase pedestrians, beeping the horn and negotiating the price. The second option is the back of a pick-up truck. Packed to standing room only, there will still be room for chickens, propane tanks, and illegal Haitians in the available leg space. The last option is a motorcycle taxi. The advantage of this mode is the cool breeze, but the disadvantage is the life risking maneuvers. Weaving between cars at stoplights, whistling at passing drinking buddies, cutting off the ignition to save gas going down hill, are what the motorcycle drivers do best. Getting to the final destination alive, is what they do worst.

The rode to Dajabon is rough and the journey requires cooperation between the passengers. During the rainy season, passengers must exit the bus frequently to hike inclines and ford rivers that cannot be passed with a full load. Other times of the year, passengers remain seated for most of the ride but must endure the endless maze of potholes and cracks that have accumulated since the road's construction during the 1984 Balaguer administration. His plans to develop the border region attracted a lot of persons to settle here, but the administrations since have not supported his initial maneuvers. These administrations have however, supported military efforts to prevent Haitians from crossing the border. Thus, an excursion to Dajabon involves several military stops, allowing machine-gun armed soldiers to snoop the bus for Haitians. However, the school of ?buddies and relatives" carries significant weight in the DR. Most bus drivers have, or pay for, connections that keep these stops brief.

The road enters town from the Loma Mountains. The first sight is the cement enclosed baseball field, usually crowded with barefooted children playing a game without gloves or caps. A left turn after the ball field leads to Main Street, which is lined with the pink, orange, yellow, and aqua colored cement houses that are characteristic to rural Dominicans. A couple of blocks lead to an adobe-style catholic church. This is the patron church of the Dajabon region [Dajabon is both a city and a region.], which covers about 900 square miles. The church has mass three times on market days to serve persons who can only come to town once a week. This church is fitting for the impoverished border region, having few decorations but a strong focus on serving its parishioners. Across from the church is the central park of the town, and the only grass lawn. It is a typical rural Dominican park, with a central monument and surrounded by benches. These seats are in high demand on market days, offering the only shaded resting areas and the hub of conversation. A seat here is perfect for observing Dominicans in their natural element, talking about baseball and politics, while sipping on rum and freshly squeezed orange juice. Just past the park, military vehicles block off the streets and the market begins.

The Dajabon Market is quite different than the open-air markets in Santo Domingo, Santiago, or other large Dominican cities. The Dajabon Market atmosphere is businesslike and forthright, compared to the festive and crafty city markets. The market encompasses about six blocks, and is separated into several sections selling different commodities. Streets are lined with venders, which at crowded points can run three deep. It is often hard to distinguish one vender?s goods from another, but they guard their lines prudently and will bark at shoppers until they adhere to them. Some of the Dominican venders are sweet talkers, who quickly coax outsiders into an exhaustive tour of their section. However, most of the dealing is straightforward, with little bargaining for price. They are usually selling goods to weekly shoppers, who know the standard prices. The venders compete with their neighbors by offering more quality goods. However, the main competition is for space. Typically a street-front spot ensures a prosperous day. Regular venders stay in the same general area every week, and have preferred customers. The Dajabon market offers a glimpse at a traditional barter economy, where most of the venders are also consumers and the commodities are practical. These types of markets are becoming rare in the DR. The urban consumers are now buying their daily goods in super stores. Many traditional outdoor markets are now selling more ornamental merchandise than practical supplies.

The clothing section is probably the largest section and has the most Haitian venders. Many organic Haitian goods are banned from the DR, because of disease rumors. Thus, the Haitians focus more on selling shoes, clothing, and household utensils. The shoes are the highlight in this section, offering a wide variety of name brand tennis and walking shoes. Most of the shoes probably have small defects, or are counterfeits. However, the extremely low prices make it difficult to pass up a pair of Reeboks or Adidas. For random T-shirt lovers the used clothing section is full of surprises. Most of the T-shirts were originally donated from U.S. mission foundations; some still have Goodwill or Salvation Army tags. In U.S. thrift stores the ones with unique slogans are heavily picked through, making them difficult to find. In Dajabon ?I Slept on a Virgin?.Island? or ?I?m with stupid? type T-shirts are abundant because most of the consumers don?t understand English or can?t read. Finally, an aggressive shopper can uncover used ?guayaberas,? a Latin American style shirt that is often worn by classy Dominicans.

The food venders are usually Dominican. They market bulk goods and meats for Haitian stores, which usually have difficulty stocking their shelves using Haitian products. The fruit and vegetable sections offer the some of the freshest organic products in the DR. Few of the local farmers can afford chemicals, so they have started marketing their crops as being organic. The local mangos are especially delightful. The Dajabon region is a chief supplier of mangos to Dominican markets. More varieties are sold here, than in any other Dominican market. The ?grande mango? unique for its size and sourness, is a rare find outside of the Dajabon market. Freshly ground peanut butter is also unique to this area. Known for its thickness and natural peanut flavor, it is the perfect complement to the sweet ?nino? [baby] bananas sold here.

Only persons accustomed to Dominican street food should try the empanadas, sandwiches, and juices sold by venders. A vender named Julius, who is stationed across from the church, sells some of the best salami and cheese sandwiches. He also offers six freshly squeezed juices, the best being chinola. The pizza empanadas, sold across the park from Julius, are excellent as well. Chocolate covered peanuts and freshly cut sugar cane will satisfy a sweet tooth. For a traditional Dominican lunch [rice, beans, cabbage salud, and marinated chicken] and a cold beer or soda, Roco Pollo is the place. This restaurant is particular exciting when the Yankees, Red Sox, or Cubs [teams with famous Dominicans] play, and the baseball fanatics gather here.

The market ends at a bridge crossing the Massacre River into Haiti, serving as a visual reminded of the troubled history and class differences between the Dominicans and Haitians. The river was named ?Massacre? because of the thousands of Haitians that died trying to flee the DR during the Trujillo dictatorship. Trujillo attempted an ethnic cleansing of Haitian blood that resulted in a two-week massacre of Haitians living on Dominican borderlands. After this Dominicans started settling the border region, developing the lands once occupied by Haitians. It is the children of these settlers that now charge the Haitians 10 pesos to cross the bridge that enters the Dajabon Market, then violently force them back to Haiti when the market ends. The bridge is run like a cattle shoot, with the soldiers carrying knight sticks to beat Haitians who don?t listen or can?t understand them. It is not surprising that Haitians act reserved and hostile, as compared to the jovial Dominicans, since they are continually scrutinized throughout the market day. The bridge is a must see for persons wanting to observe the injustices that keep prejudice thriving. But these events must be viewed in the context of a troubled history to prevent judgements from complicating one's meaningful interactions with Haitians and Dominicans.

Haitians accept these injustices because of the economic advantages the market offers them. Not only do they sell their merchandise, they also buy goods not available in Haiti. The Dominicans don?t need the market as much; they can buy and sell commodities elsewhere. However, the cheap prices offered by Haitian venders, and the demand for goods not available in Haiti, attract most Dominicans in the Dajabon Region. The Dajabon market has improved both the Haitian and Dominican border economies. It is a promising example of how these two impoverished countries can work together. However, the social injustices easily mask these advantages. The higher-class Dominicans treat the Haitians like the grime that covers the crowed market streets. Dominicans tong-lashing crippled Haitians, stealing overpriced garments, and violently removing Haitians who come to beg, are images that will not be easily forgotten. Such images are frightening and infuriating, but must be witnessed to truly experience this border culture.

Dajabon has several unique cultural delights, like the homemade peanut butter, the rustic church, and the fresh varieties of mangos. However its attraction lies in the cultural experience. The rough journey to Dajabon is a reminder of the geographic separation between the border region and the rest of the DR. This separation allows the Dajabon market to remain untouched by the super store craze that ruined traditional outdoor markets elsewhere. Both the Haitian and Dominican border economies depend on this market, linking these two countries closer than any time in the past 40 years. Dajabon offers an authentic picture of current Dominican/Haitian relations. Through observing the market's atmosphere and the interactions between Haitians and Dominicans, a troubled history is transformed into a daily reality. Injustice and prejudice turn the bridge across the Massacre River into a barrier and the open-air market into barricaded concentration camp.
 
R

Rocky

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It's been a long time since I went out that way. Unless the author of the above posted story is talking about another road to get there, then I guess the road from Monte Cristi to Dajabon is a mess.
 
cobraboy

cobraboy

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If the Dajabon market is anything like the Jimani market, it's like something out of a Suzanne Sommers African charity commercial, a beehive of activity like nothing I have ever experienced. It was very odd, indeed, being the only three white people among several thousands of shoppers and vendors. The Haitians viewed us like we were space aliens.

Folks were very pleasant and polite and at no time did we ever feel the least bit threatened. But for a first-worlder, it was an eye-opener, something I won't ever forget.

A few pics:

Haitian Bus

Haitian Restuarant (We saw dogs go in, but not out;) :confused: ...j/k

View of the "Haitian Trail"
 
D

Darius3456

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Oct 10, 2004
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Dajabon Market Tour

Does anyone have any information on where there are any tours or organized groups going to this market. I would like to visit when I return.


Thanks
 
L

London_Calling

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Aug 19, 2004
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I was last in Dajabon in January and would suggest the market is really quite safe and you wouldn't need to be part of a tour (though take the usual precautions - no valuables and use a bit of common sense). I had a camera but for most of the time was totally ignored.

The road from Monto Cristi to Dajabon is in reasonable condition - certainly good enough for Caribe Tours. The article may be refering to routes from the south or from Haiti.

Depending where you are coming from the easiest way to get there would be with Caribe Tours - bus from Santo Domingo at 7am? or Santiago. I arrived about 11am but there was still plenty of activity in the market. After that consider a night in Monti Cristi - nice but quiet town - places to eat on the beach + visit El Morro.

An area a long way from the AIs.
 
T

torge1ce

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Nov 6, 2006
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Great cultural experience

I have gone to Monte Cristi several times over the last three years to volunteer. I was there for a month this summer. We took weekly trips to Dajabon by bus. Because of the election year the road had been greatly improved. Potholes had been fixed and there was much work done on the bridge that needed an upgrade. I felt the road was in excellent condition compared to how it had been in the past. I think that you would have no problem with a small SUV. There were motos that were making the trip so you should be fine.

Dajabon was definitely an interesting and educational experience for me. We usually check out the bridge, walk the roadways where the vendors set up, and end with ice cream from a small shop just two blocks northeast of the vendors.

It is a great experience!
 
E

edenirene

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Oct 19, 2006
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Haitian Market

I am working at Alftour in Sosua and we do this tour on a monday. We are making this tour with a small group, 6- max 9 pers. Individual stops to take pictures, english speaking guide. It is a vey beautifull and interesting tour. I like the Haitian market at the border the most. Also look at our website
Alf?s Tours, Sosua, Touren, Ausfluege, Dominikanische Republik and you are also able to book on the internet.
 
C

ctrob

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Nov 9, 2006
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Pronunciation?

Greetings,
I plan on checking out the Dajabon market early December.

How do you pronounce it?? Dah-jah-bone ??

I read that there are two or three small hotels. If I bus in on Sunday, could I find somewhere to spend the nite without setting something up in advance? I understand the accomadations in Dajabon are not real exciting, but that's not a big deal.

thanks,
ctrob
 
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dms3611

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Jan 14, 2002
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Hahahahaha..."set up something in advance in Dajabon...."

....thats super funny!

Your best bet is to get there and then get the heck out of there for sleeping accomodations....get over to Monti Cristi....unless of course you are an "adventurer" and would like to stay in some of the "super fine" accomodations offered in Manzanillo.............
 
A

anneeoakland

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Feb 12, 2005
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dms3611 said:
....thats super funny!

Your best bet is to get there and then get the heck out of there for sleeping accomodations....get over to Monti Cristi....unless of course you are an "adventurer" and would like to stay in some of the "super fine" accomodations offered in Manzanillo.............
Click to expand...


Any suggestions for accomodations in Monti Cristi (city or province), please?

Thanks!
 
O

Ogre of the Caribbean

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Sep 20, 2003
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What an interesting thread!

Great article Helpmann.

Interesting photos Cobra.

Could anyone post more photos of this town? What about a photo of the Church? The main square?

This town sounds like a great place for me to visit.

But seriously, does anyone know of hotels in town that I could stay at?

Signed,

Mr. Adventure
 
D

dms3611

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Hey "Mr. Adventure"........

...heres some excerpts from past posts on folks enjoying their vacations in the "frontier"..........

(All following "quotations" taken from search engine on DR1.com)

"Hotel Juan Calvo is a nice little family run hotel in Dajabon, clean and with nice rooms, a/c, tv. Don't have the phone #, might be on the pagina amarillas. They also have a decent little restaurant on the ground floor".

?Ask for Herv? (the frenchman) in Montecristi. He has a very nice hotel on the beach, not too expensive, and a great restaurant downtown.
If I remember, the restaurant is called "El Bistrot", but I forgot the name of the hotel...?

?I opted for (hotel) cayo arena on the same road but a bit closer?big comfortable rooms and great food??

"In Monte Christi we stayed ah Hotel Chic. . . . .BTW it wasn't very Chic;-)"

Mao?"I stayed at the Hotel Agua Azul in Mao ?hotel was small, inexpensive, and clean. The best feature was it's huge swimming pool. It has several slides. The pool is open to the public for a small fee and I had a great time playing in the pool with the local people."

Monte Cristi?"stayed at the Hotel Chic which was in the center of town??(later) I moved to a new hotel at the base of El Morro named Hostal San Fernando. Very scenic and comfortable, with very good food. There were no other guests. The hotel turned on the power and hot water when I arrived and shut it when I left for the day. It has just been opened for about 6 months so it still has some things to be worked out. No telephone, limited menu, but very friendly and accomodating..."
 
O

Ogre of the Caribbean

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Sep 20, 2003
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Thank you DMS

Thank you for the information.

I really like to visit out of the way places that still have remants of the past intact. It always feels like going back in time. This will be an interesting side trip.

Does anyone have photos of the main square or the church?
 
G

ggparts

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Mar 20, 2003
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dms3611 said:
....thats super funny!

Your best bet is to get there and then get the heck out of there for sleeping accommodations....get over to Monti Cristi....unless of course you are an "adventurer" and would like to stay in some of the "super fine" accomodations offered in Manzanillo.............
Click to expand...

Been there .... done that....
All I can say is yikes! And I am not a timid traveler but all I can say is don't leave it too late. Wow pretty scary stuff!
Gerry
 
C

cuas

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A few years ago we went to Dajabon to visit my nephew's in laws. My sister wanted to see how a pork is roasted. We were a big group. We spent the night in their house and with neighbors we never met before. It was not a market day, but my nephew's father in law took us to Haiti. He managed to get a pick-up truck, he negociated (money) with the guards. They told to return before their shift ends and there we went. We drove to a market and we walked around. I wanted to see houses and take a peak of how they live but the driver said it is dangerous and we didnot have time.
It was an exciting experience, but now I know that I missed the real market.
On my next visit to DR I will consider visiting the market. I like to mangle with the people.
 
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