Nyeden, I was in La Ensenada 10 days ago and traveled both routes, and I would definitely advise you to take the road through Navarrete and Villa Elisa, which is longer, but at least you'll be traveling on mostly flat dirt. The other route is almost unpassable, even in a 4 wheel drive vehicle.
IMO, it is an experience worth living, although my companions were split in their opinions. The beach is absolutely gourgeous and unspoiled, with clear water, fine sand and no waves. The route there, once you go past Villa Elisa is like traveling 30 years back into campo life in DR. We went there on a Thursday, and there were around 30 visitors there, including our group of 8.
One sad note is that the place is in serious need of some overlooking. There's a lot of garbage left behind by unthoughtful visitors.