Questions on Air Conditioner Type: "Aire Split"

ese tipo

Newbie
Apr 12, 2019
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actually it's near 5% savings when line loss is considered plus the size of the wiring for 220 is reduced for additional savings.
5% where does that math come from?if you're talking about voltage drop that doesn't come into play in a residential setting.Voltage drop calculations are done at hundreds of feet of conductor sizing and usually is quite negligible.Unlees of course you speak of refrigerant line losses which I doubt you are cause you mentioned wire sizes.As far as "220" volt being more efficient:again,negligable the 110 volt is still coming from the same transformer so you're not gaining and or losing efficiency when you speak of polyphase motors that is when efficiency comes into play because you have 3 or more separate windings in which the motor is reliant upon,3 hands kneading the dough if you will.Sorry if my explanation come off as a diatribe but whenever I see folks getting hung up as on the 220 vs 110 issue thinking that there will be some $$$ savings I have to breakout my pocket protector and glasses.
 

banzai

Member
Aug 16, 2013
156
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5% where does that math come from?if you're talking about voltage drop that doesn't come into play in a residential setting.Voltage drop calculations are done at hundreds of feet of conductor sizing and usually is quite negligible.Unlees of course you speak of refrigerant line losses which I doubt you are cause you mentioned wire sizes.As far as "220" volt being more efficient:again,negligable the 110 volt is still coming from the same transformer so you're not gaining and or losing efficiency when you speak of polyphase motors that is when efficiency comes into play because you have 3 or more separate windings in which the motor is reliant upon,3 hands kneading the dough if you will.Sorry if my explanation come off as a diatribe but whenever I see folks getting hung up as on the 220 vs 110 issue thinking that there will be some $$$ savings I have to breakout my pocket protector and glasses.
won't argue your points except to say, P=IE
 

ese tipo

Newbie
Apr 12, 2019
97
58
28
won't argue your points except to say, P=IE
Ok I'll bite.Yes P=EI. Whereas p=power (which is watts ) E ( voltage aka electromotive force ) I Current (amperage not sure of the I designation )
so just for arguments sake you have my aforementioned hair dryer which is typically 1500 watts P. at 120 volts so p=ie so therefore I = p/e
1500/120 =12.5 amps. Similarly same hair dryer but sold and used in jolly old England were voltage is 220. 1500/240=6.25 amps therefore same electric bill but smaller wire needed for hairdryer. Sorry folks for doing a Sheldon Cooper (Big Bang theory ) impersonation but I hope this further proves that the 240 versus 120 myth is just that.
 

bonao99

Member
Jun 11, 2005
214
14
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Ok I'll bite.Yes P=EI. Whereas p=power (which is watts ) E ( voltage aka electromotive force ) I Current (amperage not sure of the I designation )
so just for arguments sake you have my aforementioned hair dryer which is typically 1500 watts P. at 120 volts so p=ie so therefore I = p/e
1500/120 =12.5 amps. Similarly same hair dryer but sold and used in jolly old England were voltage is 220. 1500/240=6.25 amps therefore same electric bill but smaller wire needed for hairdryer. Sorry folks for doing a Sheldon Cooper (Big Bang theory ) impersonation but I hope this further proves that the 240 versus 120 myth is just that.
The advantage of a mini split is that the compressor will not peak on start up and will vary the speed infinitely. Here in New Jersey I have central Air and two mini splits. When I install them I asked the Tech to measure the power consumption on the Central AC, Mini Splits and windows AC. The Central AC = 13AMPS, Mini split = 2AMPs, Window AC = 5.6. I only like Daikin.
My mother's home in Bonao have Mitsubishi and one Fujitsu they been running for 15 years all were bought second hand.
Bonao99
 

Lucas61

Well-known member
Jun 13, 2014
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retired English teacher (30 years)


Just getting to these links now. This is a big help. Thank you. However, I don't know whether to laugh or cry! This is the elephant I see in the room and I want to know what you think:

The problem is with the condenser coil and the outdoor unit. We live in an area where thieves can walk across the roofs in the business district where we live because all the buildings are connected (La Mella; Sto. Dom.) This means a pretty hefty expense building a cage around the unit if it's even possible to build one sufficient to protect against thieves.

In some of the info. I read it was suggested to put the condenser unit on a wall. Inside? Impossible. Evacuate heat inside?? I see no option except for the roof. The installation is claimed to be easy in some of the literature but other literature says that it demands a professional . The room where we need the inside component has no windows and is very hot. Fine. But drilling holes and bringing high pressure tubing and wiring from inside a back wall, where all buildings are connected, through to the roof, seems very difficult.
 

Lucas61

Well-known member
Jun 13, 2014
983
159
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retired English teacher (30 years)
Installation will require 220V electrical service to the install location for the compressor, a hole drilled in the wall for the tubing from compressor to evaporator, a place for the condensate to drain to that won't mold or pool. Can be mounted high up on a wall using brackets but seems normal for people to take some steps to keep the outdoor until from growing legs and walking away.
220V?? I'm reading that there are 120V and 220V systems. Contradiction? We don't have 220V. Does that mean we would need the building re-wired? That would be a deal-breaker. Also, I don't understand how you could put the outside part of the split unit, the compressor, on ANY wall on the inside. To evacuate heat in a non-airconditoned building that is already hot seems an instant no go. And then, if we choose, the roof, even with a custom built iron cage, theft a big problem.
 

cavok

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Jun 16, 2014
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If you don't have 220V, then buy a 120V unit. You can't mount the compressor unit on an inside wall. I've seen cages made out of rebar. Not expensive at all. Drilling a hole through the wall isn't easy, but a/c technicians do it all the time. No big deal.
 

windeguy

Platinum
Jul 10, 2004
42,465
6,136
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If you don't have 220V, then buy a 120V unit. You can't mount the compressor unit on an inside wall. I've seen cages made out of rebar. Not expensive at all. Drilling a hole through the wall isn't easy, but a/c technicians do it all the time. No big deal.
Uhm, mount the compressor inside the house? Then the heat would go into that room. It needs to be mounted outside on a wall or the roof.
 

josh2203

Bronze
Dec 5, 2013
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Uhm, mount the compressor inside the house? Then the heat would go into that room. It needs to be mounted outside on a wall or the roof.

Believe it or not, I actually saw this kind of setup very many years ago when we lived in a relatively good barrio in POP... It was a house, but you could not put the compressor outside as indeed, it would have got stolen in less than 24 hours... There was one bedroom in the house that indeed had no windows and was extremely hot, so the tenants installed the inside part into that room (obviosuly), and the outdoor unit on the living room wall... Yes, it did in fact work fine for the bedroom, but all the night the living room (obviously) was burning hot...
 

josh2203

Bronze
Dec 5, 2013
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The problem is with the condenser coil and the outdoor unit. We live in an area where thieves can walk across the roofs in the business district where we live because all the buildings are connected (La Mella; Sto. Dom.) This means a pretty hefty expense building a cage around the unit if it's even possible to build one sufficient to protect against thieves.

In some of the info. I read it was suggested to put the condenser unit on a wall. Inside? Impossible. Evacuate heat inside?? I see no option except for the roof. The installation is claimed to be easy in some of the literature but other literature says that it demands a professional . The room where we need the inside component has no windows and is very hot. Fine. But drilling holes and bringing high pressure tubing and wiring from inside a back wall, where all buildings are connected, through to the roof, seems very difficult.

Just my opinion but:

1. I would definitely get a professional to do the installation
2. What I would do in your case is go where they sell A/Cs and ask them for advice. If a tech comes to your house, they (if they are good) might also advise on the best way to do the installation.

We live in an area where every single house has compressors on outer walls and roofs and none of those have any protection (iron) to prevent theft whatsoever, but this is a very good area... As mentioned above, years ago, we used to live in a worse area where indeed compressor outside was not an option, even with the iron, so I would definitely consult with a tech.
 

ese tipo

Newbie
Apr 12, 2019
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220V?? I'm reading that there are 120V and 220V systems. Contradiction? We don't have 220V. Does that mean we would need the building re-wired? That would be a deal-breaker. Also, I don't understand how you could put the outside part of the split unit, the compressor, on ANY wall on the inside. To evacuate heat in a non-airconditoned building that is already hot seems an instant no go. And then, if we choose, the roof, even with a custom built iron cage, theft a big problem.Yo
220V?? I'm reading that there are 120V and 220V systems. Contradiction? We don't have 220V. Does that mean we would need the building re-wired? That would be a deal-breaker. Also, I don't understand how you could put the outside part of the split unit, the compressor, on ANY wall on the inside. To evacuate heat in a non-airconditoned building that is already hot seems an instant no go. And then, if we choose, the roof, even with a custom built iron cage, theft a big problem.
With ongoing supply chain issues you may have a bit of trouble getting your hands on a 120 volt unit.What many techs have resorted to are installations using the 220 volt units in tandem with a step up transformer. Common practice on the island.If it were me I would confirm with tech person that the unit is indeed 120 volt, and if it isn't, then you'll have to decide trans or no trans. They're used all over the island and it's up to you whether or not you would accept it.I personally would not.


As far as mounting condensing unit inside, you've essentially made your unit a portable "hose type" and if you've done any research on them you'll see that they are pretty much a penny wise peso foolish technology.
 

cavok

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Jun 16, 2014
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You'd have to be an idiot to mount the compressor/condenser unit on an inside wall. It would be unbearably hot as already mentioned and just think how ugly it would look in your living room. They run pretty quietly, but I wouldn't want to be in the same room with with - even without the heat. Maybe inside a garage might work ok.
 

kcdmps

Member
Dec 6, 2014
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I considered variable speed A/C but I chose single speed. The reason is reliability. The system I have is a standard, tried and true single speed. It's low cost and will last many, many years. I like to keep things as simple as possible, especially for something as complex as A/C. KISS -- Keep It Simple Stupid.
 
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cavok

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Everyone I've talked to loves their inverter refrigerators and a/c units. They all say they are saving a lot on electric. Several a/c technicians don't recommend them if you live on the beach because they say the salt air will eventually burn out the tarjeta. It's expensive - 10-12 thousand pesos.
 

kcdmps

Member
Dec 6, 2014
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Savings on electricity use can be offset by the additional repair cost and the aggravation that comes with it.
 

JD Jones

Moderator:North Coast,Santo Domingo,SW Coast,Covid
Jan 7, 2016
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Another option is to buy a portable A/C if you have sufficient space in your room. They are usually 120V and you only have to route the 3 in. exhaust tube through the wall.
 
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johne

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Jun 28, 2003
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If you don't have 220V, then buy a 120V unit. You can't mount the compressor unit on an inside wall. I've seen cages made out of rebar. Not expensive at all. Drilling a hole through the wall isn't easy, but a/c technicians do it all the time. No big deal.
Cages are built everywhere where there is even a slim chance that will be stolen. Not only is the unit valuable to a crack user, it is the copper also. Easy to get to and buy the pot head one fill of his crack pipe. I invariably have built the cages for my fliphouse in a major city of the U.S.

Strong advise: The ac guy AND the cage builder needs to be vetted! Take it from me as I have already paid for this information. Good luck.
 

cavok

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Cages are built everywhere where there is even a slim chance that will be stolen. Not only is the unit valuable to a crack user, it is the copper also. Easy to get to and buy the pot head one fill of his crack pipe. I invariably have built the cages for my fliphouse in a major city of the U.S.

Strong advise: The ac guy AND the cage builder needs to be vetted! Take it from me as I have already paid for this information. Good luck.
The cages I've seen are pretty simple. Anyone that can cut and bend rebar and tack weld can make one.
 

windeguy

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Jul 10, 2004
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Believe it or not, I actually saw this kind of setup very many years ago when we lived in a relatively good barrio in POP... It was a house, but you could not put the compressor outside as indeed, it would have got stolen in less than 24 hours... There was one bedroom in the house that indeed had no windows and was extremely hot, so the tenants installed the inside part into that room (obviosuly), and the outdoor unit on the living room wall... Yes, it did in fact work fine for the bedroom, but all the night the living room (obviously) was burning hot...
That is quite the trade off for having AC for a bedroom and not getting the compressor stolen. First I ever heard of one being mounted inside and another "Only in the DR" situation.
 

windeguy

Platinum
Jul 10, 2004
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Everyone I've talked to loves their inverter refrigerators and a/c units. They all say they are saving a lot on electric. Several a/c technicians don't recommend them if you live on the beach because they say the salt air will eventually burn out the tarjeta. It's expensive - 10-12 thousand pesos.
True about problems near salt air, but probably still worth it because of the cost savings on the electricity. You go over 700 kWh and that bill skyrockets not to mention the electricity costs are being ramped up to help cover actual costs to generate and deliver the electricity. Too bad the circuit cards cannot be conformally coated to reduce failures.