I?ve been to BC several times alone, but planned things a bit differently this trip ? mostly to ensure that it would be enjoyed by my wife of nearly thirty years (who?s only stayed at all-inclusives on the past trips to the DR). Here?s our report
THE DON EMILIO. A TOP-DOLLAR DISAPPOINTMENT
Based on reviews, I booked all six nights at the Don Emilio Boutique Hotel. It was a disappointment. Upon arrival (at midnight), the receptionist (Angelo) insisted that I pay for all six night, in cash, upon arrival. My Spidey senses began tingling. I agreed to pay for two (which turned out to be a minor mistake). He brings us to room #1? no AC. Room #2, no working lock on the door. Room #3? smells like a donkey?s rear.
Finally ? he grins and says, ?I have a special suite for you ? just $20 more.? At this point, I grimace, inspect the suite (it appears OK) and agree. Over the next few hours, we determine that the only things in proper working order are the lock, the AC ? and that the suite does not smell like a donkey?s rear. With each flush, the toilet deposits another 1/8 inch of water on the bathroom floor. For this, I paid $90US per night.
THE MADEJRA. AN AWESOME EXPERIENCE
The next day, I inquire at the Maderja? and am shown two different rooms (both $40/night), either of which is better than the ?special suite? at the Don Emilio. We arrive the following day, and are given an even better 4th floor room (with wrap-around sea view balcony) for $40. The staff and manager (Domenico) are amazing. For the next four nights, we enjoy our accommodations immensely.
PLAYA VISTA, OUR DAYTIME OASIS
?How?d you spend your days? And what about meals?? you ask. Easy. We spent all day, every day hanging out on the beach at Playa Vista (just 2 minutes from the Madejra). Great beach. Convenient amenities (showers, etc.).Good service. Reasonable prices. And a never-ending, ever-changing cast of characters.
BOCA CHICA, OUT AND ABOUT
For breakfast, we visited El Puerco Rosado (five minutes west of PV, on the beach) daily for awesome coffee and an outstanding fruit plate (not to mention the cooling beach breeze, clean tablecloths, great service, and the cleanest rest rooms in BC). For dinner, we tried several places (like da Nancy, Pequeno Suisse, and Italy Italy), and enjoyed them all.
COST & VALUE, A-I vs. ON OUR OWN
Neither of us are big drinkers, so our bar tab at Play Vista was never (well, hardly ever) over $20/day. So do the math. Lodging $40. Breakfast $10. All-day bar tab $20. Dinner $30. $100/day total, or about what a couple might pay at a really inexpensive all-inclusive (the Barcel? Tranquilera in Juan Dolio comes to mind). And about half that of the Hamaca.
CONSIDERING A SIMILAR ADVENTURE?
Money aside? the real value of NOT choosing an A-I was the quality of the experience. We got to know real people in a real community (though many could make a case for BC being ?unreal? - smile), with each day full of choices. Sure, BC can be a little ?seedy? after dark. And the beach vendors can be pretty aggressive. But would I have enjoyed the ?safety? of an A-I nearly as much? No way.
But if you do consider a trip like ours, having at least one decent Spanish speaker in your travel party is helpful (almost essential). And finally ? if you?re a big fan of all-inclusives, by all means continue to enjoy them (and resist the urge to attempt engaging this writer in a cyber-argument). But if you?re up for a nice mix of sun, sand, suds ? mixed in with a bit of local culture ? try going it on your own some time.
THE DON EMILIO. A TOP-DOLLAR DISAPPOINTMENT
Based on reviews, I booked all six nights at the Don Emilio Boutique Hotel. It was a disappointment. Upon arrival (at midnight), the receptionist (Angelo) insisted that I pay for all six night, in cash, upon arrival. My Spidey senses began tingling. I agreed to pay for two (which turned out to be a minor mistake). He brings us to room #1? no AC. Room #2, no working lock on the door. Room #3? smells like a donkey?s rear.
Finally ? he grins and says, ?I have a special suite for you ? just $20 more.? At this point, I grimace, inspect the suite (it appears OK) and agree. Over the next few hours, we determine that the only things in proper working order are the lock, the AC ? and that the suite does not smell like a donkey?s rear. With each flush, the toilet deposits another 1/8 inch of water on the bathroom floor. For this, I paid $90US per night.
THE MADEJRA. AN AWESOME EXPERIENCE
The next day, I inquire at the Maderja? and am shown two different rooms (both $40/night), either of which is better than the ?special suite? at the Don Emilio. We arrive the following day, and are given an even better 4th floor room (with wrap-around sea view balcony) for $40. The staff and manager (Domenico) are amazing. For the next four nights, we enjoy our accommodations immensely.
PLAYA VISTA, OUR DAYTIME OASIS
?How?d you spend your days? And what about meals?? you ask. Easy. We spent all day, every day hanging out on the beach at Playa Vista (just 2 minutes from the Madejra). Great beach. Convenient amenities (showers, etc.).Good service. Reasonable prices. And a never-ending, ever-changing cast of characters.
BOCA CHICA, OUT AND ABOUT
For breakfast, we visited El Puerco Rosado (five minutes west of PV, on the beach) daily for awesome coffee and an outstanding fruit plate (not to mention the cooling beach breeze, clean tablecloths, great service, and the cleanest rest rooms in BC). For dinner, we tried several places (like da Nancy, Pequeno Suisse, and Italy Italy), and enjoyed them all.
COST & VALUE, A-I vs. ON OUR OWN
Neither of us are big drinkers, so our bar tab at Play Vista was never (well, hardly ever) over $20/day. So do the math. Lodging $40. Breakfast $10. All-day bar tab $20. Dinner $30. $100/day total, or about what a couple might pay at a really inexpensive all-inclusive (the Barcel? Tranquilera in Juan Dolio comes to mind). And about half that of the Hamaca.
CONSIDERING A SIMILAR ADVENTURE?
Money aside? the real value of NOT choosing an A-I was the quality of the experience. We got to know real people in a real community (though many could make a case for BC being ?unreal? - smile), with each day full of choices. Sure, BC can be a little ?seedy? after dark. And the beach vendors can be pretty aggressive. But would I have enjoyed the ?safety? of an A-I nearly as much? No way.
But if you do consider a trip like ours, having at least one decent Spanish speaker in your travel party is helpful (almost essential). And finally ? if you?re a big fan of all-inclusives, by all means continue to enjoy them (and resist the urge to attempt engaging this writer in a cyber-argument). But if you?re up for a nice mix of sun, sand, suds ? mixed in with a bit of local culture ? try going it on your own some time.
, and i've never stayed in an AI!