Gazcue
All the other neighborhoods are perhaps beautiful but they are all built for cars-- so -- you have to have one to get anywhere and the reason I love being in a city, like my hometown of NYC, is that you don't have to have a car. Gazcue may not have the "chic" or the "glitz" but it has a real sense of place, a neighborhood- a bit like the Village in NY. Great services, easy walk to the Malecon (except that you have to cross George Washington, where they try to kill you). Wonderful old trees, great architecture, close to the Zona-- a place for real urban dwellers. For the rest of it, I take a cab.