How To Plant Pasture Grass Seed Without Using Heavy Machinery?

[russ_offord]

Hi,

I am buying about 55 lbs of seeds of an improved Guinea grass called 'Tanzania' to plant on some fields where I recently had a bunch of brush cleared. I was told to use about 1 pound per tarea (628.8635 sq meters).

I have been looking into how I can go about getting all of this grass seed planted effectively and efficiently without using machinery, like tractors.

I was told about a method that some farmers use where the workers make a slice in the ground with their colin (machete) and plant seeds in the disturbed soil using a plastic water bottle with holes in the cap that allows a few seeds out at each shake.

Does anyone here have experience with this seed planting method for fields on a larger scale like this? I'd like your feedback and ideas on how to achieve something like this.

Thank you.

Russ

 

[PeterInBrat]

I've planted new lawns and some bigger areas, but not in the tropics. The two most important things are to keep the seeds moist but not wet and to avoid having the seeds eaten by birds. What we've done is to put down an annual grass first a week or so before the planned grass(like a rye). This covers the next seed and helps keep the moisture in. I just broadcast by hand after a heavy rain. If you have a very fine seed, you mix it with sand to get the right coverage per acre. It really doesn't take that long and it's easy work.

 

[russ_offord]

Thanks for the info PeterInBrat.

The Guinea grass seed is very fine, so I will try to get some sand to mix with it if we do the broadcast spread method.

The thing about my fields is that we cleared (a lot of large) brush (mostly guayabo & escoba, cadillos, & ferns) and sprayed herbicide on the area. S,o there is a bit of grass already planted in 'some' areas from being pasture 10+ years ago, but the field is has not been plowed and the soil has not been aerated or such... so I am trying to overcome that challenge affordably (and without heavy equipment, due to the remote location of the farm.)

The literature that I have investigated online says the seeds should be planted no more than 1cm (10 mm / 0.39 inches) deep ... another source says no deeper than 2cm (20 mm / 0.79 inches), because the seeds are so small.

The recommended coverage is ranges a lot and they say to use anywhere from 1 kg/ha to 6 kg/ha ... with about 3-5 most often recommended. I calculated 4 kg/ha to equal 0.55 lbs/tarea ... so with the 55 pounds of seed that I bought I should be able to cover 100 tareas of land, depending on the seed spreading method.

To keep the seeds moist, I may try to install a moveable sprinkler system that is fed by a stream running next to the pasture areas.

Russ

The two most important things are to keep the seeds moist but not wet and to avoid having the seeds eaten by birds. What we've done is to put down an annual grass first a week or so before the planned grass(like a rye). This covers the next seed and helps keep the moisture in. I just broadcast by hand after a heavy rain. If you have a very fine seed, you mix it with sand to get the right coverage per acre.

 

[Ringo]

It will be interesting to learn what you do and what works down here. I've put lawns in via seed in the States several times with no problems. But this ain't the States!

We are near the ocean so very sandy soil on our land. Tried two different ways dividing our large lot into two.

I needed pasture so had sod delivered and cut them into "clumps" to plant. A clump being around 3 X 3 inches and planted 6 inches apart. A little regular fertilizer spread by hand and lots of water. Filled in nicely in a few months and horse ready.

The other half I tried to seed into the sandy soil. No starter fertilizer could be found so just hand broadcast the seed, raked it in and lots of water. NOTHING. I could have/should have??? bought some topsoil/fertilized/checked the seed dates? Any and all the above.

Being that I now really needed "instant" pasture I just bought the sod and had it put down. Lots of water. After it's second cutting the horses could move in.

 

[Ringo]

Depending on how rocky your land is, you can make a simple drag that can be pulled around with a ATV or lawn tractor to cover your seed and fertilizer.

5' X 5' chain link fence attached to fence poles front and back. A few cement blocks or rocks on top of the fence. Rope tied to the front pole at each end attached what ever is being used to pull it.

Just Google: chain link drag for some photos.

 

[russ_offord]

Ringo,

Thanks for sharing your local seeding/transplanting experience. I have seen people do the transplant system here, too, successfully.

There is a neighbour in the area with a 4-wheeler that could possibly pull a chain link fence around the property. Would the chain link drag be to prepare the soil for planting, or to bury the seeds after sowing... or both?

When you mention 'how rocky' the land might be... do you mean large rocks set into the ground / boulders... or do you mean smaller (fist sized?) rocks that might be loose and sitting on top of the pasture area?

As the cut brush is being burned, I could have the workers collect up these loose rocks and remove them from the pasture area. (We need to fill in a muddy hole in a corral area anyways.)

Depending on how rocky your land is, you can make a simple drag that can be pulled around with a ATV or lawn tractor to cover your seed and fertilizer.

5' X 5' chain link fence attached to fence poles front and back. A few cement blocks or rocks on top of the fence. Rope tied to the front pole at each end attached what ever is being used to pull it.

Just Google: chain link drag for some photos.

We are near the ocean so very sandy soil on our land. Tried two different ways dividing our large lot into two.

I needed pasture so had sod delivered and cut them into "clumps" to plant. A clump being around 3 X 3 inches and planted 6 inches apart. A little regular fertilizer spread by hand and lots of water. Filled in nicely in a few months and horse ready.

The other half I tried to seed into the sandy soil. No starter fertilizer could be found so just hand broadcast the seed, raked it in and lots of water. NOTHING. I could have/should have??? bought some topsoil/fertilized/checked the seed dates? Any and all the above.

 

[PeterInBrat]

You do it before to create scratches for the seed to break through the soil. You don't want to do afterwards because you'll bury or compact your seed.

One method they sell in the US is seeds that are sold mixed with bright green paper pulp. Then when you broadcast it, you can easily see how even your work is and the paper pulp retains moisture while the seed is established. I always get sticker shock when I see what they want at the big box stores compared to when you buy it in bulk from a farm store.

 

[Ringo]

I think that Peter also has some experience doing this in the States. Getting ideas is great but learning to adapt them is the hard part and changing what I found successful in the States didn't work here for various reasons; as I noted above or I just could not find what I wanted.

Drag before and/or after? It depends on your soil? If you have compacted or clay soil the drag won't do much if anything to break it up; but adding more rocks or blocks you might be able to get enough to cover the seed. This might take several times going over the same area. Then after you have spread the seed, you can take weight off the drag to cover the seed.

You can cover the seed after the last drag with a thin layer of hay to help keep the moisture in. Hay has been difficult to find at times due to all our rain this year. We just paid U.S. $5.08 per 40 lb. bale, delivered.

Since I learned about the drag AFTER I was done I can not give you firm advice or experience so you get to learn what works for you and conditions.

After we had large equipment clear our lots I hired 6 guys to do nothing but pick up rocks (coral reef pieces) from marble size and up before putting in the grass. That was over 3 years ago and the horses still kick up a few so it's continuous.

 

[Ringo]

Google: tine drag harrow.

I have seen these made up and used in larger horse corals, small ones made up by a wielder. Basically using 1/2" metal frame with rows and 3" long rebar welded on at a slight back angle. This should not be very expensive at all. Add weight as needed to break up your topsoil. Drag some, seed and light drag again.

Kinda depends on how much land you have and how much time vs money you want to invest.

 

[russ_offord]

Great! Good ideas guys.

We are talking about 65-100 tareas minimum/maximum (10-15 acres) here, so the ATV/4-wheeler concept could work.

The locals here say to just clear the land (chapear) and throw the seeds... but with my investment in the Tanzania Guinea seeds (over US$10.00/lb regular price), I'd like to try to affordable maximize the potential for the seed to germinate and take root well.

I have Dominican friends here who can weld up / invent some sort of small drag harrow (whether tine/spring-tooth or chain-link fence style.) So, I wouldn't mind paying someone a day's labour + gasoline + a bit more for wear and tear on their 4-wheeler to go around for one day to 'disturb' the soil somewhat.

Thanks again!

Russ

 

[PeterInBrat]

Depending on your timeline, you could also focus on say an acre lot to really put some effort into establishing it then come back in a couple months and transplant plugs into new areas. I think you'll get better odds of success if you do it in stages. Grass spreads much better through the roots than by seeds. Also keep in mind the cost of farm labor is very cheap, esp if you can provide a good lunch in the process.

Dethatchers in the US always have some kind of spring built into the tines so they give instead of bending when they hit rocks. They also make them that you replace a lawnmower blade with.

 

[TP666]

WELL THERE WILL NOT BE ANY BIRDS LEFT! sprayed herbicide

 

[Ringo]

Depending on your timeline, you could also focus on say an acre lot to really put some effort into establishing it then come back in a couple months and transplant plugs into new areas. I think you'll get better odds of success if you do it in stages. Grass spreads much better through the roots than by seeds. Also keep in mind the cost of farm labor is very cheap, esp if you can provide a good lunch in the process.

Dethatchers in the US always have some kind of spring built into the tines so they give instead of bending when they hit rocks. They also make them that you replace a lawnmower blade with.

These spring tine machines are good for de-thatching (?) lawns but I don't think will do much for old pastures that are most likely compacted or will they cut up old growth roots and penetrate the soil. (I had one in the States.)

The locally made harrow that I described above would do more but not knowing your conditions I have no way of telling. The ones I saw working, as described, were on corral sand pulled by horse or ATV and the rebar tines went in about 3 inches with no added weight. But this is done daily with no vegetation, rocks or roots and rather soft.

I would think that it would be very important to have the rebar tines be welded at an back angle so that the contraption would rise up over larger rocks and roots.

Please let us know what you decide with all the details. (I'm looking at a few additional acres.... arrrrggg.)

 

[PeterInBrat]

De-thatching also rips up surface roots, opens the soil to more air and moisture and creates scratches for the seeds to penetrate the surface. In more developed lawns, the de-thatching stimulates the rhizomes to put out new roots which will thicken a lawn. Frequent mowing doesn't just keep the grass at a preferred length, it also gets the grass to put more energy into it's root systems.

It will help opening up compacted soil to about 1/4" which is enough for grass to get established.

I used to have to manage about 10 acres of lawn at place where I was the Facility Manager. Somewhere I have a great big thick book on lawn and garden care. The section on grass is over 100 pages.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6N0yJRAAAM

 

[PeterInBrat]

Maybe you could use some No 1 or 2 rebar for the rake element. It has to be springy enough that it doesn't just bend over and float over the ground.

 

[Rattus_Rattus]

This turns out to be a valuable thread.


"Sticky?"

 

[Criss Colon]

Do it the "Dominican way"!!!
They know what works here.
One "Chop" with the Machete, throw in some seeds, step on the ground, rain falls, seeds grow, cows eat!
CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC

 

[Ringo]

This turns out to be a valuable thread.


"Sticky?"

I felt that we had so many others that were valuable. Solar? But never made it. Working land here in the D.R. is hard for expats. Note that the OP has advice from locals..... "just throw the seed around". To me....?????

Let's see what happens and perhaps learn.

 

[Ringo]

Do it the "Dominican way"!!!
They know what works here.
One "Chop" with the Machete, throw in some seeds, step on the ground, rain falls, seeds grow, cows eat!
CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC

And this may be the best way to do it.

 

[bob saunders]

Do it the "Dominican way"!!!
They know what works here.
One "Chop" with the Machete, throw in some seeds, step on the ground, rain falls, seeds grow, cows eat!
CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC

True enough, but that's doesn't make it the best way. We've always done things this way is how the dodo bird when extinct.