Roof leak

[sosuajames]

didn't mean it as a form of advertising, sorry. if one person mentions to me that they got my name through this forum, i'll donate all the profit from that job to one of the various charities mentioned on this forum.
all concrete cracks. that is the nature of the product. vibrating helps to a degree by forcing the air that is trapped inside and making the product denser. i think most of the cracks that separate and allow water through is more of a re-inforcing problem along with the thickness of the pour. 3" of concrete that has been mixed by hand is not really an ideal application for a roof. concrete is used as holding tanks for large quantities of water all over the world some containing millions of gallons so i dont think the concrete itself is the problem. its in the installation

 

[sosuajames]

too bad the moderator took my web address off. if the moderator had of looked at the web site, they would have realized that it is just a picture gallery. there is no phone number, address not even my city. nothing other that other than my companyy name and a way to contact me. on vacation in the dr i follow the concrete trucks in a cab and jump out and help with the pour. this stuff is in my blood. everyone here just got scooped for free consulting.

 

[FireGuy]

too bad the moderator took my web address off. if the moderator had of looked at the web site, they would have realized that it is just a picture gallery. there is no phone number, address not even my city. nothing other that other than my companyy name and a way to contact me. on vacation in the dr i follow the concrete trucks in a cab and jump out and help with the pour. this stuff is in my blood. everyone here just got scooped for free consulting.

Add the website in the appropriate place in your Public Profile. Then anyone who makes the effort of clicking on your name can have the aforesaid "free consulting".

Gregg

Just remember that it was a wise man who said that the only free cheese is in the trap - LOL.

 

[sosuajames]

no traps here...haha. i tried to include it on my profile just now but had to contact the administrator. by having my web site address, people can actually send me a picture of their problems. the best i could do is offer advise because i would imagine product is very limited.

 

[J D Sauser]

Use a net when using that "paint"

We use the mentioned "rubber" paint (pintura "goma"), which has little to do with rubber, really, on all our roofs here in Spain, as a preventive measure before tiling on concrete roofs. What we have found will work best, is to work in a nilon net which looks very similar to mosquito net, together with the second or third coat of that piant... we do about 5 coats. The net will help it not to crackle or part. The net here comes on rolls about 150cm (5 foot) of with.
Be carefull, as this is really no liquid rubber but a water based product it will wash off if it will be hit by rain befor a 48+ drying period, so check theweather chanel before starting your prodject.
The dark red one is said to be the original and thougher formula, but yes, as mentioned before, if not covered with tiles, it will heat up your roof, certainly an undesirable effect in the DR which the white paint won't create.


I see it used quite often on almost "flat" roofs (again with the net) too.

... J-D.

 

[POP Bad Boy]

Filtration problem

........rather than start a new post, I figured I would add on to this one. I have a question regarding the methods being used to stop roof filtration on flat roofs. One condo building we have has some filtration problem on the top and we told that there is a "new" thing they are doing to solve the problem.

Supposedly, many people in Costambar are now having this done and it is, according to the locals, quite expensive......so, thinking it might be something that I didn't know about, we called the guy and they showed up today.

They said it was put down with fire etc and was grey and would look nice etc. So they measured it up etc, (still waiting for a price) but I asked if they could show me some of the work.......so they took us to the area of the "italian condo's" in Costambar and showed us the roofs they did there.......which seems to be the whole street.

I was disappointed to see that it was just that "tar paper" with like a pebble grey finish which I remember when I was a kid that they used to use this stuff in the US about 30 years ago....!!!!! :cross-eye :tired:

Is this really the BEST stuff that is available here for this type of problem????

Thanks for any info anyone may have.

 

[gmiller261]

jose_fatule@hotmail.com

Jose is out of Santo Domingo.

Great guy, great work, good price.

Speaks and writes English.

Has access to many types of polymer paints.

Does asphalt not EPDM, but superior job.

 

[gmiller261]

Polymer paints

This is what Jose sent me that is available in the DR.

Lancopaints.com - Roof Coatings ??Elastomeric Latex Roof Coating

LANCO 1,100% Elongation gray primer

 

[SantiagoDR]

Curing concrete - Something DR engineers do not know about

The following is a little long winded, but VERY IMPORTANT!
Mainly because I am still so P***ed at my engineer for not knowing these facts when he built my house.....

If the engineers would do what they should do when building a house roof, there would not be so many "Filtration" problems down here. I was not in the DR when my roof was poured and I have many problems, however, I advised my neighbor when he was building his house and he watered down the roof for several days after it was poured and he has NO Filtration problems.... And it is a flat roof.

Curing Concrete

After concrete is placed, a satisfactory moisture content and temperature (between 50?F and 75?F) must be maintained, a process called curing. Adequate curing is vital to quality concrete.

Curing has a strong influence on the properties of hardened concrete such as durability, strength, watertightness, abrasion resistance, volume stability, and resistance to freezing and thawing and deicer salts. Exposed slab surfaces are especially sensitive to curing. Surface strength development can be reduced significantly when curing is defective.

Curing the concrete aids the chemical reaction called hydration. Most freshly mixed concrete contains considerably more water than is required for complete hydration of the cement; however, any appreciable loss of water by evaporation or otherwise will delay or prevent hydration. If temperatures are favorable, hydration is relatively rapid the first few days after concrete is placed; retaining water during this period is important. Good curing means evaporation should be prevented or reduced.

Why cure concrete. Curing serves two main purposes.

* it retains moisture in the slab so that the concrete continues to gain strength

* it delays drying shrinkage until the concrete is strong enough to resist shrinkage cracking.

Properly curing concrete improves strength, durability, water tightness, and wear resistance.

It is critical to concrete?s long-term durability that it be kept as moist as possible for the first seven days after placement. Curing concrete properly requires the correct control of moisture and temperature and without proper curing, concrete may only achieve 50% of its potential design strength. The logic behind the practice of a seven-day curing period rests on two facts:

* Cement, the "active" ingredient in concrete requires constant moisture to gain strength.
* If the concrete is kept moist for the seven-day period, it will not only gain strength, but will also shrink less and produce fewer cracks.

If all else fails, pour the roof during the rainy part of the year, those built at that time have less filtration problems.

And last, but not least, this article -

Adding water to Portland cement to form the water-cement paste that holds concrete together starts a chemical reaction that makes the paste into a bonding agent. This reaction, called hydration, produces a stone-like substance?the hardened cement paste. Both the rate and degree of hydration, and the resulting strength of the final concrete, depend on the curing process that follows placing and consolidating the plastic concrete. Hydration continues indefinitely at a decreasing rate as long as the mixture contains water and the temperature conditions are favorable. Once the water is removed, hydration ceases and cannot be restarted.

Remember, in the DR, everyone doing work for you is a Maestro! :smoke: ha ha ha

Don - SantiagoDR

 

[GALK]

Besides poor concreting ability, is it possible that these cracks come partly from the small frequent earthquakes (1 to 3 of the Richter Scale) we are heaving up to 50 times a year?

I'm in my present place (a tall building in the capital) since about 10 years and I have to do some repairs approx. every 2 to 3 years.

The person whom I contracted applies a white net like bandage but more solid as first step and puts then 4 or 5 layers of thick white paint.
Work can only be executed if there is no rain for 2 days.

2 Years ago he charged me 8000 RD for work and material.
Repaired spots have no more filtration, the cracks he has to do this year are new.

 

[POP Bad Boy]

Update on this advice...............

This is what Jose sent me that is available in the DR.

Lancopaints.com - Roof Coatings ?*Elastomeric Latex Roof Coating

LANCO 1,100% Elongation gray primer

.......we used the paint.............within 1 week of the above post.......In all the rain last month and this month...............there wasn't a drop of water..........IT REALLY WORKS...........

Thanks

 

[SantiagoDR]

.......we used the paint.............within 1 week of the above post.......In all the rain last month and this month...............there wasn't a drop of water..........IT REALLY WORKS...........

Thanks

I have used similar "elastomeric" paint also and they do work great, until the next time the small earthquakes opens up more cracks.

 

[ken kopas]

Paint

Where in the POP area can you purchase the paint/sealer?
Ken

 

[POP Bad Boy]

It can be purchased at

Ferreteria Freddy (at the old rotary).........

5 gallons is about $2200 to $2400.........

That is the basic one.................

There are different grades and when we wanted to purchase it, we tried to get the one recommended in this post but couldn't find it in either Puerto Plata or Santiago at Ochoa or Hache. The price was the same..........at Ochoa and Hache for the basic paint so we just got it in POP rather than cart it home.

After we purchased and used the paint, I did see the better product at Bellon in Santiago.........but we didn't need it anymore...........didn't check the price.

 

[ken kopas]

Info

Thanks for the info! One more question, where is the old rotary in POP?
Thanks.
Ken

 

[Rocky]

Thanks for the info! One more question, where is the old rotary in POP?
Thanks.
Ken

Before you head out that way, you might wait until ElViejo posts where he found the actual Lanco product in POP yesterday.
He said he paid approx. 2,600 pesos.
You might as well spring for a couple of hundred extra pesos to get the good stuff.

 

[POP Bad Boy]

Before you head out that way, you might wait until ElViejo posts where he found the actual Lanco product in POP yesterday.
He said he paid approx. 2,600 pesos.
You might as well spring for a couple of hundred extra pesos to get the good stuff.

..........TO CLARIFY.........it is a Lanco product.........they have different grades of LANCO..........the website shows the different products.........you can only find the basic LANCO product in POP and most of Santiago.......NOT the higher grade......I think you need to go to Santo Domingo for that....

........THE OLD ROTARY..(meaning it's not there anymore, now that they have divided the main road with barriers in the center) ....is off the main road at the intersection where you would go down to Supermarcado Messon etc.......

 

[POP Bad Boy]

Further clarification...........

THE ONE AVAILABLE IN POP AND MOST OF SANTIAGO (we've looked at quite a few places) is LANCO SILICONIZER 100% ELASTOMERICO ULTRA BLANCO and in POP (at Freddy's) they gave us a free quart of Lanco Siliconizer Elastomeric Crack Filler with each 5 gallons......AND IF YOU PAY MORE THAN $2,300.RD.....you're paying too much.....

 

[ken kopas]

Thanks

POP & Rocky thanks again for the info. I will get some and try it. A small portion of my roof is flat/pitched and should be a good application for this stuff.
I see a lot of places using a coating of tar and then a membrane placed down on top after the tar is heated with a large propane torch, seems foolproof but I will go the "do it yourself" route first. I have seen the tar method advertised on two billboards between Sosua and POP.
I hope to have good results to post.
Ken