Hmmmm....
As far as I know, there are no dealers who specialize in residential iso-boost transformers/line conditioners in the DR at the moment, and to tell you the truth they are EXPENSIVE as hell comparatively. (Minimum $900.00 US for anything worth a damn)
In layman's terms, what they do is totally ISOLATE the street service from the house service by a set of opposed windings which are not connected directly. The secondary windings on the output side draw power from the "field" in the center of these windings, which corrects any surges, spikes, ground faults and overcurrent/undercurrent problems from the input side. The better units (CVT [constant voltage transformer]) have a tank capacitor which allows for low voltage compensation to produce clean 120V power REGARDLESS of the street voltage (within 25% normally). Also, these units actually create a new ground inside the unit at the field which is totally isolated from the street ground, so in essence you could theoretically hook up only the "hot" and "neutral" wires on the primary (street) side and ground your entire house to the transformer. The only problem here is that if you had a case fault on the primary side, the case of the unit would become "hot", so it is best to separately ground the case with a spike if your main service ground is dicey.
JD has a point with the whole house surge suppressor, though this will not correct low voltage issues at all. Also, your inverter should have a cutout for high voltage as well as the low voltage (usually 5%), so that if your voltage spikes or surges beyond this range, it will switch to inversion mode (just like in a low voltage situation).
Additionally, the isolation transformer really limits damage potential from surges and spikes generated from within the home, as flourescent lights, motors, compressors, etc that usually cause intra-circuit spiking or surging usually do this when there is either low voltage present or poor quality line condition. And if you have a single/poly phase (240/120) application, the isolation transformer minimizes the potential for a dropped neutral to "fry" your components on one of the "hot" legs as well, as it will simply shut down if the street side neutral drops out. But ALWAYS keep in mind that if one of your compressor or other AC motors in the house has a shorted winding, you will be passing potential to the neutral which could also damage your sensitive electronics. A surge suppressor WILL NOT detect this problem, so the best way to protect yourself from a neutral bleed is to install a GFCI main outlet or an ARCI main breaker.
The breakers on your inverter are likely overcurrent protection for your battery charging and inversion circuits and have nothing to do with the subject at hand.
For all you electrical engineers, I said "layman's terms.!!!" LOL
As far as I know, there are no dealers who specialize in residential iso-boost transformers/line conditioners in the DR at the moment, and to tell you the truth they are EXPENSIVE as hell comparatively. (Minimum $900.00 US for anything worth a damn)
In layman's terms, what they do is totally ISOLATE the street service from the house service by a set of opposed windings which are not connected directly. The secondary windings on the output side draw power from the "field" in the center of these windings, which corrects any surges, spikes, ground faults and overcurrent/undercurrent problems from the input side. The better units (CVT [constant voltage transformer]) have a tank capacitor which allows for low voltage compensation to produce clean 120V power REGARDLESS of the street voltage (within 25% normally). Also, these units actually create a new ground inside the unit at the field which is totally isolated from the street ground, so in essence you could theoretically hook up only the "hot" and "neutral" wires on the primary (street) side and ground your entire house to the transformer. The only problem here is that if you had a case fault on the primary side, the case of the unit would become "hot", so it is best to separately ground the case with a spike if your main service ground is dicey.
JD has a point with the whole house surge suppressor, though this will not correct low voltage issues at all. Also, your inverter should have a cutout for high voltage as well as the low voltage (usually 5%), so that if your voltage spikes or surges beyond this range, it will switch to inversion mode (just like in a low voltage situation).
Additionally, the isolation transformer really limits damage potential from surges and spikes generated from within the home, as flourescent lights, motors, compressors, etc that usually cause intra-circuit spiking or surging usually do this when there is either low voltage present or poor quality line condition. And if you have a single/poly phase (240/120) application, the isolation transformer minimizes the potential for a dropped neutral to "fry" your components on one of the "hot" legs as well, as it will simply shut down if the street side neutral drops out. But ALWAYS keep in mind that if one of your compressor or other AC motors in the house has a shorted winding, you will be passing potential to the neutral which could also damage your sensitive electronics. A surge suppressor WILL NOT detect this problem, so the best way to protect yourself from a neutral bleed is to install a GFCI main outlet or an ARCI main breaker.
The breakers on your inverter are likely overcurrent protection for your battery charging and inversion circuits and have nothing to do with the subject at hand.
For all you electrical engineers, I said "layman's terms.!!!" LOL
