That's at 35% of battery capacity.
It's true, below that batteries suffer, even deep cycle ones.
Same here.
I used to charge mine when they reached 23.6 - 23.7 V (24 V system).
donP
- Thread starter donP
- Start date
P like Photovoltaics
That's at 35% of battery capacity.
It's true, below that batteries suffer, even deep cycle ones.
Same here.
I used to charge mine when they reached 23.6 - 23.7 V (24 V system).
donP
We do not know whether he can do that.
Actually few people here can feed back to power lines.
I for one cannnot.
Without stored power and during a blackout not even LED bulbs help.
But, of course, you can always turn to Yanadu's solution:
donP
Yes:
For one day:
Power budget: Laptop doubles as TV 10 hours at 10 watts per hour including external speakers 0.1 kwH
Fan: 20 hours at 10 watts 12. V. DC 0.2 kWh.
Hi-Fi 2 hours at 20 watts 0.04 kWh.
Lights 8 hours at 16 watts. 0,096 kWh
Fridge or icemaker 24 hours at 35 watts per hour average. 0.86 kWh.
yapask1
Looking, finding and lots of math.
I've been TRYING to get an estimate of what power we are using from 5PM to 8 AM when solar switches to battery.
So MANY variables that I've gone almost completely mad. BUT I THINK I HAVE A HANDLE ON IT. maybe.
Very rough guess of average amps used during those hours comes to a total of 91 Amp hours. (U would not believe the amount of time, research and math to get to that.)
AVAILABLE usable amp hours... Watts, volts, 110/120 vs 8/48 but use only 35% converting back and forth and loosing it every now and then. (Watts law got a real workout today.)
So ALL I wanted to do was figure how many amps are in a volt in a 48 volt system that are usable at 35% of usable capacity, converted to 120 VAC, so I can find out how much 2 volts out of my 24 batteries of 6 volts with 245 A.h. each in 3 banks will hold up while just living a normal life with this on/off and whatever.
Simple.
I have to "proof" my findings and will publish later and hope to win a prize.
Have a good night.
OH DANG. forgot my so far finding. Having only two usable volts to use before the battery shut off went into effect so.. ... a water pump kicked in or a microwave turned on brought the Low battery shut down below the level so another stand-by source would kick in, as it should, so that the batteries are "safe". All is good except my head.
I've been TRYING to get an estimate of what power we are using from 5PM to 8 AM when solar switches to battery.
So MANY variables that I've gone almost completely mad. BUT I THINK I HAVE A HANDLE ON IT. maybe.
Very rough guess of average amps used during those hours comes to a total of 91 Amp hours. (U would not believe the amount of time, research and math to get to that.)
AVAILABLE usable amp hours... Watts, volts, 110/120 vs 8/48 but use only 35% converting back and forth and loosing it every now and then. (Watts law got a real workout today.)
So ALL I wanted to do was figure how many amps are in a volt in a 48 volt system that are usable at 35% of usable capacity, converted to 120 VAC, so I can find out how much 2 volts out of my 24 batteries of 6 volts with 245 A.h. each in 3 banks will hold up while just living a normal life with this on/off and whatever.
Simple.
I have to "proof" my findings and will publish later and hope to win a prize.
Have a good night.
OH DANG. forgot my so far finding. Having only two usable volts to use before the battery shut off went into effect so.. ... a water pump kicked in or a microwave turned on brought the Low battery shut down below the level so another stand-by source would kick in, as it should, so that the batteries are "safe". All is good except my head.
Last edited:
OK... so I started reviewing my stuff before my coffee kicked in. It IS amp hours and 91 amp hours (6.5 amps per hour) is just under 2 volts (49.7V) in my system that gives me about 9.4 hours when I need about 14 hours of battery/3 volts (50.7V).
None is this is perfect since I don't have perfect data... nor am I perfect to figure exact. LOL
FYI: Just found this 235 watt panel for the same prices & similar specs as the Jinko -- US$230.30
Tianwei TW235(28)P 235W Solar Panel | ACOSolar.com
Jinko 235 Watt JKM-235P Solar Panel
NotLurking
Tianwei TW235(28)P 235W Solar Panel | ACOSolar.com
Jinko 235 Watt JKM-235P Solar Panel
NotLurking
A few weeks ago I got some quotes on importing solar panels and got door to door shipping prices from Florida to my house in the DR using Encargopaq. Here are the notes from that:
Three quotes received for Door to Door shipping prices from Miami from EncargoPaq:
The Jinko panels that donp is using are $230.30 US in the US.
- Importing just one solar panel Door to Door shipping is $2,134.40 RD or $54.59 US for a total cost of $284.89 for one panel.
- Importing 12 solar panels Door to Door shipping is $25,520 RD or $652.69 which is $54.39 each for cost per panel of $284.69 (only 20 US cents less per panel for shipping 12 versus 1)
donP mentioned that the Jinko solar panels are about 20,000 RD locally which is $511.50 US or $226.62 US more than you can import one for yourself. Importing 12 yourself would save you over $2,700 US (which is the total imported price of 9 more solar panels and change!)
- Importing two Outback FLEXmax80 charge controllers is $10,440 RD or $267 US.
The price for each controller is $589 US plus $133.50 shipping for a total of $722.50 each or $1,445 for two delivered.
- 12 panels at $284.69 each plus 2 charge controllers at $722.50 each is a total of $4,861.28
Additional cost would be the mounting hardware including metal supports and anchor bolts, wiring, initial programming of the charge controllers and labor for installation.
Paid more, still happy.
Yes, I saw the panel with that price tag in a local hardware shop.
But:
They normally give me a discount (around 10%) and 12 panels would have a different price of course. I never asked for the final price, they did not have 12 panels at the time anyway.
I know where my installer bought the panels, I did not ask for the price there.
My installation was done at an AI price.
And I still think, it was worth it.
donP
Yes, I saw the panel with that price tag in a local hardware shop.
But:
They normally give me a discount (around 10%) and 12 panels would have a different price of course. I never asked for the final price, they did not have 12 panels at the time anyway.
I know where my installer bought the panels, I did not ask for the price there.
My installation was done at an AI price.
And I still think, it was worth it.
donP
Polish Nuts
Oh well, talking about hardware... :bunny:
Do not forget the theft proof stainless steel nuts (and the special tool to fasten them).. :ninja:
I bought them in Poland and at one point was tempted to seek dv8's help.
Oh, these Poles know everything about theft. :cheeky:
donP
Oh well, talking about hardware... :bunny:
Do not forget the theft proof stainless steel nuts (and the special tool to fasten them).. :ninja:
I bought them in Poland and at one point was tempted to seek dv8's help.
Oh, these Poles know everything about theft. :cheeky:
donP
Here is my situation. I am not a full time resident, and the power supply is very stable, very few blackouts, but very expensive, about 19 pesos/ kw, or 50 cents US.That's an expensive investment if you cannot store the energy.
So, at night with an 'apag?n' you are in the dark or have to run a generator.
And if someone does not have many blackouts why get 20 panels?
IMO, you had been better of with 10 or 12 panels and a battery bank.
BTW, how many Wp does each panel generate?
What is their alignment (azimuth and inclination)?
You mean kWh, right?
An average of 15 kWh would sound more realistic, unless your panels are more than 250 Wp.
In the last few days we had very cloudy weather and rain in Saman? which brought down my average to 9.785 kWh/d.
But still sufficient to not start the diesel... :classic:
donP
My panels produce about 20kw of power per day. My consumption with three airconditioners running is about 50 kw per day, or around $25 USD per day. I could not afford enough panels to supply all that power, and when I am not around, it makes no sense to charge batteries for nothing. Good batteries are very expensive with shipping and cheap batteries just do not last.
I experimented with a few meters until I could find one that spun backward. The digital electronic ones that I had will not turn backward, even though the arrow indicated that the voltage was going back into the lines. I then bought an old mechanical meter, and finally it is spinning backward. It is turning backward at about 20 kw per day. When I visit, I will use up that "Credit" I will never hold my breath waiting for a net metering check from the electric company, but I dont need to since I am sure I will use up the credit and more.
I did not pay a huge amount for the panels, and saved a lot doing the install myself, so I will pay for the system in 4 years. If anyone is looking for some panels, or components, I can get you a good deal. contact me.
Surprised you recommand mono crystalline...!
in DR only Poly Crystalline modules are efficient
in DR only Poly Crystalline modules are efficient
Don Pedro, from the above listed links:
Jinko: Panel Technology Polycrystalline
Tianwei: Cell Technology Polycrystalline
Did you even bother clinking on the links before posting?
Your statement about only polycrystalline modules being efficient in DR is both ill formed and misleading. Monocrystalline solar cells have historically had a higher peak efficiency. They were also more commonly available than polycrystalline solar cells. Today there isn't much difference in the efficiency of the technology. When purchasing PV modules manufacturer reputation and build quality is much more important than if the modules have mono or poly solar cells. Remember you are making a long term investment, 30 years or so, you want those panels to last.
NotLurking
Of course I did.
Maybe the wrong page because I saw monocrystalline.
Monocrystalline is not efficient when hot temperature this is why
in DR we should avoid those panels.
Thank you for all explanations.
P.