Chapter 172 (Expats & Contradictions)
Last night, I was sitting at the bar drinking the strongest, most lethal double espresso ever invented. I was flying. I had a caffeine buzz so intense that I was actually outside my body. I was flying, hovering overhead. The only consolation was that I was also listening to a genius song being played over the restaurant sound system. The genius song: Golden Brown by The Stranglers. I came back down to earth and went over and turned the song up. I turned it way up.
This is one of the most timeless and brilliant songs to emerge from post-punk, late 70’s England. The song is driven by one of the most eerily, hypnotic sounds that ever graced the radio, and is dominated by a Harpsichord played in 13/8 time. Halfway in a scorching guitar solo — played with heavy reverb — comes in like a shot of heroin. The reverb picks you up and places you onto its wings where it flies you directly into the sun.
This is a storytelling poem of a song that rings more like an early 20th century Dylan Thomas poem than pop music, and it couldn’t have been invented without the help of some kind of hallucinatory drug. The song came out in the winter of 1981 — taking English radio stations by storm. But what makes this song timeless is that it starts with a hypnotic and driving Harpsichord riff that reminds you of something Ray Manczarek from The Doors could have written had he mixed Magic Mushrooms with sniffing glue. The song catches you from the first note of the Harpsichord, and doesn’t let go until the reverb from the guitar has you crash landing on the sun.
Big Frank was sitting at his usual Widows peak chair, arguing with a group of expats about cheapness & contradictions. He was getting frustrated. He called me over to his table and asked me to sit down.
“Listen Franky, I have been in the Caribbean for 35 years now. I’ve been to so many different islands i've lost count. I’ve got friends scattered all over the Caribbean. I know the Caribbean better then I know my right hand. Some islands are so small that I know them better then I know my own penis. But I have never lived on an island like this island. This must be the only island in the Caribbean where people actually take pride in ****ing over poor people.”
“What do you mean?” I ask.
“Look around,” he said, sweeping his hand across the beach, “Some of these expats living here have no problem paying $10 or $15 for a meal, but then they will try argue over giving 50 pesos ($1 Dollar) to the waiter as a tip. Some of the expats here have no problem drinking all afternoon but then will stiff the wait staff after they’ve waited on them hand and foot all afternoon. Some of the expats here seem to take delight in depriving someone of one or two dollars. They see it as an act of intelligence when they can save one dollar and keep it from someone who needs it much more then they do.”
“Humm, ok, “I answered looking around the bar.
“If these expats can save an extra 25 pesos by depriving it from some poor Dominican or Haitian, they revel in it.”
“What do you mean?”
“Listen Franky, people are full of contradictions. Everyone. Some people don’t have any problem spending a lot of money on alcohol, but refuse to spend anything on food. Other spend a lot of money on Smart Phones, but then don’t have any money to make a phone call (he looked around at our staff). Others spend a lot of money on a car or motorcycle, but then they live in a shack (he looked over at me and smiled). But no contradictions are more prevalent then what we got right here on the North Coast with the expats."
"Uh-huh," i answered, looking down at my smart phone.
Look at Alabama Gary,” he said pointing at him. Gary was out on the beach urinating on the bushes that surround our coconut tree. “If Alabama Gary can save 25 pesos from a motoconcho—basically denying the motoconcho a tip, then he revels in it. He basks in his ability to save 25 pesos from someone who is basically—for all practical purposes—barely surviving and feeding his family. But then Alabama Gary has no problem walking into a casino and blowing hundreds of dollars."
“Humm, yeah, good point. I answer, watching Alabama Gary stand inside our bushes and urinate all over our outdoor speaker that sits hidden inside our bushes. He didn’t care. He just shook his penis and smiled.
“The contradictions are mind boggling, Franky. Look at some of these expats who refuse to pay more than 30 pesos for a Carro public (public taxi) or Motoconcho (motorcycle taxi). They will argue over some small change and nearly fight with the driver if the driver doesn't give them back the exact change. Is twenty extra going to make any difference at all in an expats life? No. But twenty pesos can make a significant impact on a poor Dominican’s life,”
“It’s the principal, Pops,” he tells Big Frank.
“Principal? These Dominicans and Haitians are driving back and forth 12 hours a day on motorcycles, cars, and vans. They work six and seven days a week, day & night. They’re working in a scorching heat, without any AC, sweating their balls off, trying to survive and make ends meet. Meanwhile, these crazy expats come down here and try and save twenty pesos from someone barely surviving.”
“It’s the principal, Pops,” Alabama Gary reiterates, and then adds, “People do not want to be ripped off and taken advantage of.”
“I understand that Gary, but what is an extra twenty pesos to you? It’s not enough to buy a pack of gum. But an extra twenty pesos to a poor Haitian or Dominican is a lot of money. By giving them a little extra, you make their day. You make them smile. You restore faith in humanity.”
“You sound like some kind of socialist-Obama lover, Pops,” Alabama Gary says to him.
“Listen Gary, nearly every expat living down full time here is either from North America or Europe,” Frank says, sweeping his massive arm over the entire bar and beach. You know what that means? That means that most of the expats here are living on some kind of State Pension or Disability. A large portion of the expats living here are receiving some kind of “Government Check.” Most expats here are either retired or semi-retired. Another portion are on some kind of government disability. A few are living off of inheritance money. The rest are a loose group of students, surfers, and backpackers who, understandably, are on a very limited budget. My beef is not with the latter group. These are just kids. My beef is with the adult expats living here and trying to deny some dirt poor Dominican or Haitian an extra twenty or thirty pesos. My beef with the expats that go out for Happy Hour everyday but then won’t tip the waitress that’s running up and down the beach for them."
"Uh-huh," I answered, looking over at Alabama Gary and pointing at him.
"You know what these cheap expats say in order to justify not giving any extra money to a Dominican or Haitian?” Big Frank asks.
“What?” Alabama Gary asks.
Expat: “You don’t need to tip the waitresses or waiters here”
Me: “Why’s that?”
Expat: “These people don’t need it. They’re used to living on very little money.”
Me: “They still need to survive. They have children and families to support.”
Expat: “Yeah, but they don’t need the extra money. They live very simple. They have very simple lives. There’s no reason to over-tip them!”
Me: “How can you over-tip a poor person?”
“Here’s the problem, Franky, a lot of expats here feel as if they have the right to exploit a poor person’s dire situation. They feel that it’s the poor person’s fault that they are poor. For many expats, they feel they have the right to penny-pinch the most destitute, most needy, and the most poor.
“Why is it my responsibility to save the world?” Gary asks.
“Listen, Gary, it’s not your responsibility to save the world. But look right here on the beach…you see that?” Big Frank asks, pointing at Anna—the fruit lady. “She walks up and down this ****ing beach 12 hours a day in the most scorching hot sun available with a club foot that is bent backwards. She goes back and forth all day long for 12 hours a day. And then, when an expat—who has been living here for some time--asks how much is the pineapple or mango, and she gives the price…you know what they say?”
“What?”
“These crazy expats here tell her this: “But Anna, we can get that pineapple for 50 pesos less at the supermarket!” The expats tell her that she is over-charging!” they tell her, “Your prices need to be more in line with the supermarkets and colmados!” They tell her that she is over-charging and trying to “rip them off.”” Can you believe that? A cheap expat would rather spend 100 pesos in gas driving to the supermarket in order to save 50 pesos from Anna. So, instead of helping provide a living wage to Anna—who is barely scratching out a living every day here on this beach, they rather give their money to a ****ing supermarket. A supermarket! What does that tell you about the state of mind of the average expat here?”
“It says that we are smart with our money, Frank.” Alabama Gary answers.
“No it does not. It shows where people’s priorities are. Look around, we don’t care that the Motoconcho and public taxis and Guaguas have to pay $4.50 for a gallon of gasoline. We don’t care about their daily maintenance costs. We don’t care about the people walking up and down the beach all day in the scorching hot sun. We don't care about their daily grind and the toll on their bodies. We don’t care about their children and their families trying to survive. We don’t care about the school uniforms and supplies and food that needs to be bought everyday…we only care about saving 10, 20 or 30 pesos."
"At the end of the day, that’s all an expat really cares about. The most important thing to an expat is getting something as cheap as possible—the most Bang-for-the-Buck—so that he or she can brag to all of their friends and love ones, and say, “Hey, look at me…look at how smart I am. Look at how cheap I got this thing from that stupid, poor Dominican or Haitian.”
https://youtu.be/BJL8GjLCGxU